@Smivies I think alliums - or at least the non-miniature varieties - do benefit from deadheading. Year to year I routinely cut some Allium "Purple Sensation" flowerheads off after they are declining, while allowing others to go to seed and then scatter the seeds. I do leave the entire stem, just cutting off the head. I've noticed that the ones that I deadheaded return with larger globes the following year. Digging up bulbs that were deadheaded also reveals they are much larger. Lastly, the ones that are cut back are more likely to "double" and turn into two mature plants after 2-3 years. However, whether deadheaded or not, they do return and bloom, the only difference being the flower size. So if you want a truly naturalized garden, neglecting to deadhead is fine. It makes sense there would be some energy loss when alliums go to seed, because the leaves are dormant by the time the seeds are developing so the only source of energy is stores in the bulb. I don't know if that would remain the case for varieties that keep their leaves longer or even stay green all spring and summer. @Highlander I'd be pretty optimistic your bulbs will perform well, but I do think they should be kept cool to begin rooting. Bulbs begin rooting quickly in fall as temperatures drop but don't plummet. So a cool - but not frozen - garage will probably be better than a room-temperature basement or closet. As for your problem with finding sunlight - is your yard covered by deciduous trees, or is it conifers? One of the best things about spring bulbs is that they do most of their growth before deciduous trees leaf out. Since that means they still get sun, many gardeners use the opportunity to put "full sun" plants in what would otherwise be shade under a tree. I'm in an especially sunny climate here in Colorado - Denver has very low average % cloud cover in addition to more solar intensity because of the altitude - so in general we get to push sun plants farther into the shade than is possible in other regions. But I've found that bulbs planted under trees actually perform better, by leaps and bounds, than those planted in full sun. I've also found that bulbs planted under trees keep their leaves around much longer into the summer, whereas those scorched by sun go dormant sooner, which results in weakened performance the next year. So in the cool spring months, they get full sun which is truly unfiltered, in the summer as the weather warms they get gradually-increasing shade to protect them. But there are other reasons spring-blooming plants can adapt to shade in May/June: the total solar energy increases drastically in summer because both the day length and the sun's intensity do, and both those factors are compounded. I am not sure of the exact figures, but I remember from a college class discussing solar energy that there energy availability is something like five times stronger on June 21 compared to Dec. 21. So for a narrow period in late May/early June, many "sun-loving" plants will do OK in shade - and in fact the average 24/hr brightness in a shady area is close to the average 24/hr brightness of a sunny area at other times of the year. I'd try planting a few bulbs in areas with dappled shade or under late-emerging trees, and see if they perform; I suspect they can.

Hi Virginia, I grow several varites of Colocasias. I have left the Red Stem ones in a raised bed for a couple of years and they come back. I always pour a load of mulched leaves on them every fall. I dug up my babies this fall and potted them up in the unheated GH so I'm hoping to have some to trade in the Spring. I've got "Black Magic" and the "Red stems" and am going to get the burgandy and green leaf one soon. I also put a pot of "Frydek" in the GH that I will get to divide next year. I'm going to take atleast one of each and put them in one of my beds and mulch heavy to see what will happen to them. I really don't like having to take them in. I did learn something a few years ago with non-hardy amaryllis. I planted a few around a big old oak and several in one of my garden beds. The ones around the oak still come up and bloom each year. The ones in the bed, froze into a big glob of mush. So, the soil definetly stays warmer when there is a structer or tree close to the plant you want to plant. I had no idea it could make that much difference. My neighbor has one of the huge red and white Amaryllis that she planted 4 years ago in the corner where her house meets the sidewalk and this thing is huge!It had about 20 big blooms this year. I'm going to try to convience her she needs to divide it! This plant came from the florist and it is not supposed to be hardy. We've had many nights in the teens and that thing just keeps on growing in her mini tropical area close to her house. I guess all the concrete and brick act like heaters in the winter. S0, even if it's not supposed to live, if you pick the right, protected spot and add your bubble wrap, you should have some nice plants next year. OH yes, do not completely cover the plants with this like every0ne said. It will act like a stem bath on bright sunny days and you will have soup! Love to you all, Mona

Harrietomeowner, could you please tell me the name of the marble subway tiles you are installing? Are they the lansdale from the tile shop? Are they also known as "Botticino"? When I went to the tile store, they told me that there is not such a name "lansdale marble". They say that is the name the tile shop used on that particular marble color. They suggested "botticino" might of being the one that is on line because of its creamy white color. I love them!! I think they will look gorgeous on your kitchen. I have similar colors, maple medium autumn stain cabinets, and a creamy granite called Ivory fantasy. I'm considering marble subway tiles as well and the ones that you posted lying down on your counters and the mock up created look perfect. Please post pictures of your backsplash when ready...

I was just reading this thread, and noted someone suggested an electric fence rather than a chain. I'd like to agree with the electric fence... but sometimes even if they've been trained to stay inside, some times something will call them to go out. My sister in law lost her dog that way. He'd been let out to do his business, but something must have attracted him enough to bounce past that fence. He went missing. My brother found him a day later, hit by the train that runs nearby. That dog was an amazing dog - also a pit bull mix. I'm wondering if a run would be a good solution, give the dog a chance to move around more without getting into a situation like the wonderful one I just wrote about. (That dog had been indoors about 95% of the time.)