I've grown the beefsteak and they have done great, I think most types will do well as long as you keep them well watered, the containers dry out quickly as opposed to being in the ground which I'm sure you already know :>)
Christine

It is all going to depend on what is available for you to choose from. In your zone, this late, the choices will likely be limited. And if only using 5 gallon buckets for the containers then I'd stick with determinate, compact, bush varieties (will be part of their name or on the tag) or at most, semi-determinates like Bradley.

Dave

PS: Have you researched Bacterial Wilt and done the stem testing so you know for future reference that is what you really have? Sorry if it is true but good soil solarization can be very effective at eliminating it.

Edit: my Early Girl works fine in a container. I am using 10 gallons, with drip irrigation, but might move to two 5 gallon pots in future, as explained below.

Here's a thought. People will often say that a 15 gallon tomato outproduces a 5 gallon plant. But is that the right comparison? Shouldn't the 15 gallon tomato outproduce THREE 5 gallon plants? Otherwise it is a mismatched comparison.

Yeah, if you want more tomatoes use more mix (and square footage), but surely there is a sweet point (possibly a different one for different locations) that will determine pot size vs pot count.

(Oh, and since I just noticed it in a random image on the internets, if you say "I am using 20 gallon pots," and then you show pots only half full of mix, "no, you are not.")

This post was edited by johns.coastal.patio on Fri, May 23, 14 at 11:27

Good points John but it isn't just over-all production to consider.

Ease of care is another factor ie: q3 day watering rather than 2x a day although setting up a drip system can reduce that issue.

Nutrients - need to be supplied less frequently in bigger containers and they also allow for more effective use of organic supplement.

Plus plant health issues such as frequency of BER and Blossom Drop can be reduced with larger containers.

I think there is a balance point somewhere. I'm just not sure anyone knows exactly where it is. That's why I opt for the bigger containers figuring the odds are in the plant's and my favor. :)

Dave

I just posted in your Bacterial Wilt thread and I don't think it's Bacterial Wilt at all, Dave asked if you'd done the test and I went ahead and told you how to do it.

There's a BIG difference between wilted foliage and leaves that show leaf roll, which is what I saw.

And I offered another possibility to Bacterial Wilt and explained why.

Carolyn

Thanks for the feedback everyone! I have not done a stem test, but will be sure to do that. I will let you know the results!

jen...back to containers. Make sure you have a free-draining potting mix. This is most important. I do all container planting for my maters...and have good success. More sun the better. Bigger pots are better. Five gallon buckets work (need drainage holes). I have 15 gal nursery pots (not really 15 gallons of water size). My 20 gallon "Brute" trash cans (plastic) are really perfect for any tomato plant. Frequent low-dose fertilizing is essential for container plantings. Go for it!

While probably not available as a plant in your area, I would recommend Polbig as a container tomato. They are incredible short, 2.5 to 3 feet tall and they crank out tons of tomatoes. It is an early variety. I have over 100 of them planted in my high tunnel for early tomatoes. They produce all season long for me in the tunnel, not sure what they would do in a pot? Based on their size, I have sold plants to people who were looking for a tomato to plant in a pot. When it comes to harvest time, I crawl on my hands and knees 200 feet each time. If not, you will miss the real low ones!

Jay