I have read that in this instance that people can do two grafts. The native variety being the most hardy and strongest rooting, then a short intermediary piece which can bridge between the native and fruiting varieties. Can anyone assist? Or know someone who can? I have cut down a large native cherry and would like to graft lapins and stella to the sprouts which are sure to come up this spring. "example taken from plum/almond stone fruit grafting" - " Also (and this is where the fun starts) most fruit trees in the Prunus genus are sometimes compatible with each other: almonds, apricots, nectarines, peaches, and plums all are compatible for grafting, but occasionally it's complicated. For example, some plum rootstock is not compatible with peaches or nectarines; and some almonds require an intermediate step before grafting onto some plum rootstocks."

"subgenus" may be more appropriate (or maybe not, taxonomists have put both sweet and sour cherries into the subgenus Cerasus). All these different cherry species are very closely related, if one wants to consider them different species. This is one example where the line separating different species is not a clear one. It could even be possible to consider the different cherry families as subspecies. After all, if they can freely interbreed and hybridize with each other, can they not be considered members within the same species? (by this definition we could divide all cherries into only 2 groups: those with 16 chromosomes and those with 32) Or one could attempt to divide cherries into different families: Sweet cherries (P. avium), sour cherries, Black cherries plus Capulin native to the American continent (put into same group), and Asian flowering cherries. Perhaps better classification could be provided if taxonomists utilized multiple degrees of species relatedness/separation, because it is ambiguous whether some of the different cherries should be classified as entirely separate species or subspecies within a singular species, neither of which would be wholly accurate.

Hi, I am new to this forum but have been raising vegetables and fruit for many years. I remember when I was a child in NH in the late 1940s going to UPick Macintosh orchards and the wonderful taste of fresh apples and cider made from these old orchard trees. Many decades later, I've tried to many Macs looking for that taste and juiciness without much success. So I applaud the OP on wanting to carry on the line of that old mac tree. I've been experimenting with grafting old apple varieties onto existing orchard trees here in So.Cal. Many seem to do reasonably well (after a couple of years of observation) but the root stock seems important. So, I would recommend a standard root stock recommended for the region and graft several scion pieces of buds to the adapted root stock. Good luck!

i thought i would chime in since i just tried to air-layer my Kari starfruit. i did the usual air-layer procedure, and after almost 3 months i took off the wrap to take a look, and there were no roots... i did see some healing growth of bark, and what looked like knobby areas, usually where roots will start to form. its possible i just didnt wait long enough, but 70+ days should be enough for roots to at least start to form. since winter was coming i removed it all and am letting it heal. i think i will try again in spring in the exact same spot, maybe another also. what i did notice is the sphagnum was a tiny bit drier than i would have liked, though i still think there was enough moisture for roots, i will try to make sure next time i have more moss and water, and its wrapped a bit better. i am thinking the tree was just able to pull water from the ground easier, since i had lots of mulch , lost of rain and the ground stayed pretty moist.... maybe trying to force the plant to uptake water from the air-layer would have helped. i started it mid-summer, and i didnt see any new growth on the rest of the tree while the layer was on... i think maybe after it flowers is not a good time to start a layer. i think i will start it early spring, just before it puts on new leaves.