this is second pics, actually I already moved it to this smaller pot and make the rootball exposed again to the air and put it back to the coffee table next to glass door in my apartment. I don't think this is too much water, it looks dry on the yellow leaves...is it stressed out because I moved it with too much sun? I thought echeveria like fuller sun...or maybe because I never water it thoroughly because of traumatic with all the leaves drops and rotten before? when it gonna grow new rossettes on the stem>? I read it will grow new rossettes head on the stem, is it true?? should I water it or just let it be...?? please advise soon...help...i dont want to lose this again

Fusion, The question of light intensity alone is not harmful as long as the plant has time to adapt, unless you have some info showing it is which would be very interesting. (In reasonable environments ... not the Gobi Desert). At low light levels, leaves develop with a different composition. Adapting means giving it time to change its structure to accomodate a high flux. Up to 70% shade cloth can be necessary in Florida to cut the temperatures (and even then not work). I did fine with standard 30% material and the work is in keeping the plant watered. It is a lot of work, too. A big plant can easily transpire a gallon a day here and if its watering needs are met it appears to produce very well with no signs of damage. I have to say appears because my night temperatures are too high and cause problems with fruit set, so it is more of an assertion than a statement. Photosynthesis is a photochemical process. When the flux is above the capacity of the leaf to absorb, light is simply not utilized and not damaged, which I think the OP is asking. Whether UV can cut life expectancy or invite disease is another question. Whether the OP in the mid-Atlantic is wondering about supplementary light which does not have high UV content is another question. You really need to look at total yield IMO, at least that is what I am interested in. For example, if I got 25 pounds out of a plant in 3-4 months, I would consider that plant more successful than one that lived to a ripe old transplant age of 6 months and gave only 15 pounds. Temperature is important, but doesn't sound like the OP was asking about it either, like many things that can contribute to an unhealthy environment if the plant doesn't get at least 6-8 cool hours to do processes it does best in cool temperatures, and probably in darkness. PC

Was that cactus green at one point? Is it mushy? I just left my plants for six days, the temps were between 90-100 degrees during the day. I watered all my plants the day I left (watering until water came out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the pots) I didn't water them at all until the 6th day when I returned home, and I had no problems. My staghorn fern was a little wilted but bounced right back after being watered. My point is, one of the best things about succulents is they can handle some neglect every once in awhile. Unless I'm leaving for several weeks I don't let anyone touch my plants. The only instructions I left for the person who lives on my property was to not touch/water them. If your cactus isn't mushy than its probably a lighting issues. The other plants with the exception of that brown one in the long planter all look ok and if they looked different than when you left them they should bounce back. When in doubt don't water. I have a haworthia coarctata that will turn very dark green when exposed to a lot of light. Unless it's burned, the burn spots are obvious and white. It had gotten a burn spot when I first brought it home, the burn was on a lower leaf which I was able to cover with gravel but now it's hardly noticeable.

Hi everyone Emily - When I first started growing bromeliads (Tillandsias are also bromeliads despite what some people say). I was told by an elderly grower that if I looked at my plant's leaves, they would tell me what they required in the way of water. If the leaves were curling up at the edges, this meant that they needed more water. This was the plant's natural response and by doing this, the leaves were turned up so they were able to catch and hold more more water from rain or dew. If on the other hand the outside of the leaves were turned down, it prevented them trapping water and allowed it to run off immediately, thus preventing overwatering. In summary, if the leaves are turned down at the edges the plant has sufficient or too much water and if they are turned up they are too dry and require more water. I have always followed this rule when deciding when to water and it works well for me as an indicator. Finally, it's always worth remembering that more plants (of any type) are killed by too much water rather then too little; if you can't decide if the plant needs watering or not, put it off for another day or two rather than risk overwatering.. All the best, Nev.