That's what I use for my cages and it works great. I got it by the roll and counted 10 squares and then cut it, rolled it up and secured it with either wire or rolled the remaining wire around itself. I got mine for free at a new home construction site where they were doing concrete work. I have about 12 now and I'm always looking to make a few more. They work great for Tomatoes.....they also work great for cucumbers, beans peppers or any type of vine type plant. After you make them into circles you can cut them in half to add to the height to other cages making them taller if you need to. They even work good to hold a trash bag when you are doing yard work. On a side note make sure you wear gloves, safety glasses and long pants and shirt because when it springs back after you cut it it can/will puncture your skin. A lesson I learned the hard way after the 1st one I built. After that one what I did was leave the 2 ends to cut last. Seriously folks, this material is great but it can hurt you even if your careful. ***WEAR SAFETY GLASSES AT ALL TIMES WHEN YOU WORK WITH THIS MATERIAL***

I have six Texas Tomato Cages and just ordered six more. That said, I think they are over priced, especially when you include shipping, but from the research I have done they are the best currently available. However I can think of a much better design. I wish someone would just sell round hoops of galvanized rebar welded shut on the end in the shape of a circle two feet in diameter. You could then just buy four pieces of straight rebar or wood stakes or whatever is handy and tie the round hoops onto them with wire or string to create a cylindrical cage. At the end of the season just cut the wire and the hoops and straight pieces would be easy to store. I know they sell the round hoops, because they use them for making reinforced cylindrical concrete columns, trouble is I can't find anyone who sells them locally. Glamos Wire makes a 22 inch diameter galvanized hoop out of quarter inch steel wire, but they never answer my request for a price. If you spaced the hoops a foot apart it would take five hoops for a six foot high cage, assuming the first hoop was a foot above the ground and you used seven foot long pieces of 3/8 or 1/2 inch rebar for the stakes and pounded them a foot into the dirt. The cages I envision would be much stronger than Texas Tomato Cages, and could be made any size by adding or subtracting the number of hoops and lengths of the uprights used.

Yes, this year ... well actually this week ... I've come around to the decision to grow more than one cherry tomato vine in a wire cage. After reading sage advice about not pruning indeterminate vines and communicating with my tomatoes about how they'd prefer to live, I've become enlightened. So yestereday I had a fruitful one-on-one sitdown with a group of as yet unplanted cherry tomato seedlings asking whether they wanted to grow singly in a cage or whether they preferred a communal arrangement. All of the enthusiastic young plants responded that they would prefer to grow as a group in a large wire cage. They said they all would feel so much more empowered if they were able to remain as a gang rather than have to strike out on their own. They also told me they wanted to grow totally unpruned which didn't surprise me because cherry tomato vines really are like unruly teenagers who if left to their own ways would never bathe or get a haircut. So, I put five or six cherry tomato plants into one 24" diameter wire cage. I don't really know how many plants are in there. I didn't really keep count because they were all talking at once and it was really confusing trying to interpret exactly what they were saying and keep track of what I was doing all at the same time. Kinda like trying to drive an SUV full of babbling teens through Atlanta on the Interstate bypass during rush hour. But then I would do anything to indulge my tomato plants, because I believe you should talk to them as equals and let them express themselves freely so as not to unduly suppress their natural tendencies. We wouldn't want to end up with tomato vines who suffered from low self esteem now would we? That wouldn't be natural.

I have used Texas cages many years now and that only happened to me once. It was because most of the heavy fruit and branches were all leaning over one side of the cage so the other side had very little load. Trick is to keep the plants evenly supported. Mine aren't on a hill though so I bet that's why you are having these issues...