Bailey's Marvel was almost certainly a Haden seedling.....this was confirmed to me by the people who own the original tree. It was planted in an orchard that is almost entirely Haden trees, at a time when Haden was really one of the only 'superior' cultivars available commercially. The 'Bombay' cross is more debatable....that was what the USDA people found when they did that pedigree analysis 6 years ago. I've found a lot of different opinions on that. Dr. Ray Schnell has a lot of confidence in it and is defensive about it, but Richard Campbell (whose name is on the report) distanced himself from it when I asked him about it last year. I myself have found some discrepancies in the study. Bombay is one of the older cultivars in Florida though (brought from Jamaica in the early 20th century I think), so its possible the Bailey brothers had a Bombay tree somewhere on the property. Harry, while Bailey's Marvel doesn't seem to have the characteristics of either supposed-parent, that's not too unusual for mangoes......Valencia Pride is a Haden seedling too, but you'd never guess it based on its characteristics. Edward is a Haden seedling also but I shudder to compare Haden to it in anything.

A Bailey's Marvel is an "improved" Haden and descended from Haden. Possibly sweeter or "candy like" from the reviews I've read. Flavor & texture is superior to Haden and well liked, but BM may be a bit harder to get established from what I've read. Kent or VP may be better options if you want a fast growing, trouble free cold hardy tree with traditional Haden flavor. I think Kent is probably your best option. VP is cold hardy, grows fast, but will get to 50' with age - just like a Haden. Your children will eventually need to call the fire department to pick them if not topped periodically. I think Kent stays at a more manageable height. People who have tasted both Kent & VP give the edge to Kent. Kent I have heard may be a more manageable tree when it comes to height. VP is a larger fruit and possibly fastter growing and slightly more cold hardy.

Its about 6'+..maybe 7'. Next year it goes into the ground. It wants to be a tree,not a shrub with that strongly vertical branching. Maybe Baileys is the best bet for Nor Cal because of that growth habit. But,so many types I could never say for sure. Any happy Mango is a good Mango here. And,I haven't picked one yet to eat...that's another phase to come! Hey Mangodog,what if the below graft fruit tastes better then the grafts? WHAT a dilemna...

High nitrogen can hurt root and flowering ability in cotoneaster plant. See excerpt from below link: http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/0304423881900649 " Although root growth was not increased by either Nitrogen or Phosphorus, high N levels inhibited root growth." More link to show that too much phosphorus can hurt root & flowering: https://laidbackgardener.wordpress.com/2016/05/18/the-myth-of-starter-fertilizers/ "further studies showed that large quantities of phosphorous were not necessary for rooting. Yes, the soil must contain a small amount of phosphorus in order to stimulate rooting… but that’s also true of any other nutrient. If the soil totally lacks nitrogen, zinc or iron, that too will hamper rooting. In fact, plants actually root poorly in soils excessively rich in phosphorous. You’re far more likely to kill plant roots with 10-52-10 fertilizer than to stimulate their growth. " http://davesgarden.com/guides/articles/view/3788/ " When plants are grown in low phosphorus environments they emit organic acids from their root tips. These acids allow mycorrhizal fungi to penetrate the roots and form the networks that assist roots in absorbing water and nutrients. If the phosphorus levels are too high the roots do not emit the acid and the mycorrhizal networks do not form. This forces the plant to put more effort into root growth to compensate for the lack of mycorrhizae." U. of Colorado Extension has excellent info. on Organic fertilizers: "recent CSU research has shown that phosphorus from bone meal at NPK 3-15-0 is only available to plants in soils that have a pH below 7.0." On rock phosphate: Recent CSU research results concluded that no rock P (regardless of mesh size) is available for plant use unless the soil pH is below 7.0. http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/gardennotes/234.html According to CSU, Kelp powder has NPK of 1-0-4, decent potassium, plus trace elements, only need 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon per gallon, due to its high salt. **** From Straw: I tested bone-meal many times, with negative result in my soil pH near 8. 1) killed over a dozen geraniums by topping with bone-meal in hot summer .. that burnt their roots, but their colors were vivid at first. 2) put bone-meal in the planting hole of Sharifa Asma, the color DID NOT deepen, but really wimpy root, plus the soil got hardened. 3) Killed a $30 gallica rose gifted by a friend with bone-meal in the planting hole. 4) Made Crimson glory really wimpy by putting bone meal in the planting hole. 5) Made wimpy Yves-pink-seedling into a Black-spot fest by moving it, then put bone-meal in the planting hole. CONCLUSION: phosphorus is best in small amount as in 1/10 of potassium in rose-tissue analysis done by U. of CA at Davis. Phosphorus is best AS soluble, as in leaves, manure. Chicken manure at NPK 5-3-2 has plenty of phosphorus, plus trace elements zinc, copper, and boron.