Just got a Pachira (Money Tree) need some advice
Stevi_K
18 years ago
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wanna_run_faster
18 years agoStevi_K
18 years agoRelated Discussions
Pachira (money tree) trimming, rooting, and replanting.
Comments (133)Hi! I’m sure someone can help me! This tree was full and beautiful. Then I gave it new soil and I think it was over fertilized! From the bottom to about half way up, the leaves turned brown and fell off including the stems. Top I saved somehow. Does anyone know how to get the mid-section to grow back or should I just cut it back down and start over? I cut the second stem a few days ago and waiting for it to bud! What’s the guarantee it will grow back? Help! We’ve had this tree some 2007!...See MoreMoney tree pachira plant unhappy -- help!
Comments (15)Wow, I think I have the world's friendliest pachira lol. Mine likes to stay lush, and comfort me when I have done something stupid which has angered my other plants, lol. I've had it for years and it tends to be on the more cooperative end of everything I'm growing. It's true what everyone is saying about less water than a typical tropical though. I don't water mine until the soil is dry all the way down to the knuckle of my pointer finger when I stick it in, and then i flush the soil completely. I also think maybe a little less than full sun too, Mine tends to bake and wilt if the light is too strong, and does fine in the winter under some growlights inside. I've never fertilized it, or done anything in particular to encourage it, but I I do give it lots of love and chat with it while I'm making my rounds about my plants. Anyway, Best of luck!! and PS, I love the nest-egg analogy Zenthumbs!!...See Morepachira money tree help - markings on leaves
Comments (10)It's difficult to determine how appropriate a soil is by how the packager labels the product. What's most important is whats IN the bag, not what's ON the bag. It's primarily the size of the particles the soil is made of and the ratio of those sizes in the mix as a whole that determines how well a soil will perform. You can take 3 ingredients that have the potential to make an excellent soil, and mix them in such a way that the soil ends up being a poor choice. The only soils I've seen that I would use myself are 3 of the Fafard heavyweight mixes. I choose not to because I can easily make a better soil for a fraction of the cost. One of the keys to making any commercial soil you buy into an excellent soil is being able to find pine or fir bark in a size that's appropriate as a primary fraction of the soil. If you can find that, life just got a whole lot easier, insofar as the probability of consistently bringing along healthy plants. I wouldn't panic and start thinking you're doomed if you can't find pine or fir bark - we can work with a water-retentive soil if it's not too bad, but a soil based on particles larger than peat, compost, coir, sand, topsoil .... is a worthy goal. Almost everyone that spends any time on this forum recognizes there are usually inherent limiting factors associated with a very high percentage (almost all) of commercially prepared soils because almost everyone is 'amending' them to increase aeration and reduce water retention. This is certainly a move in the right direction, but if I can take you back to the thought that how you combine the ingredients has a very notable impact on the end product. If you DO find pine bark in a suitable size, making the bark the primary fraction of the soil (75-85%) will yield a product much different than if you added 15-20% pine bark to the soil you bought. We can talk more about soils if you're interested - and I'll give you some additional reading that covers container soils in greater depth. If you read it and understand the concept, you've probably taken the largest step forward a container gardener can take at any one time. While you're mulling that over, you can read about several ways to trick excess water into leaving the pot, which of course means more air in the soil (a good thing) and the ability to water correctly. I'm sure you'll have questions or comments - at least I hope you do. ;-) As far as light goes, your plant will probably tolerate the light load of full sun indoors, but the leaves probably won't tolerate the heat build-up unless you have a fan moving the air, so use your judgment. Outdoors, dappled or open shade with morning or late day sun would be ideal, and your plant will love it outdoors. My #1 choice for a houseplant fertilizer is Foliage-Pro 9-3-6, and the reasons are many. I don't want to get you thinking about too many things at once, so when you're ready to take on fertilizers, we can talk about that. The FP isn't easy to find in stores, but Miracle-Gro 12-4-8 in the yellow jug is, and it's cheap. It doesn't work quite as well as the 9-3-6, but it has the same NPK ratio (3:1:2) so it's about the next best thing. It also has any micronutrients you would have any cause to be concerned about in container media. All it lacks that's of concern is calcium and magnesium, but that will be in your soil, so you're covered for now. Questions? Al...See MoreDirect breeze for Pachira Aquatica (Money Tree)? Need Advice!
Comments (7)If the humidity level is high enough, the fan won't be a problem, but if it's sub-40%, it will be. I'm not sure how you have your plant set up for drainage, but at least one hole should be through the bottom at some point. Even if the holes in the sides are 1/8" above the bottom - that's a problem. There should be no way the effluent that exits the drain hole should have a pathway back into the pot. If it was my plant, I'd be using a wick to assist drainage, I'd water it over the sink, then tip the pot at a 45* angle with the wick hanging down from the lowest point in the pot bottom (as though you tipped figure E 45* to the right)until the planting stops draining. 3 weeks between waterings is a certain indicator you're leaving a lot of your plant's potential untapped. Another way of saying that is, 3 weeks between waterings is a sure indication there is a significant degree of limitation in play due to an overly water-retentive soil. You would be doing well to flush the soil and fertilize with regularity, and plan a full repot (as opposed to potting up) into a medium that allows you to water correctly. Al...See MoreBill
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