Any tomatoes best for hard clay soil?
californian
14 years ago
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digdirt2
14 years agoanney
14 years agoRelated Discussions
Best grass for success in hard clay?
Comments (8)Wish you would have found this site before you moved into the house. The results you are getting would be expected for the treatment you are giving the lawn. TW, the previous poster, wrote a little pamphlet called The Bermuda Bible. Search the Internet for it and follow it. Assuming you have a high pH soil, here's what you're doing wrong. You are blaming your problems on cheap grass. Well, the grass may have been relatively inexpensive but the grass is not cheap. The bermuda seed you are planning to buy is cheap grass. The sod that was put down is an improved hybrid bermuda that does not produce seed heads. When you are taking proper care of it, it looks amazing. Cure for hard soil Buy the generic brand of baby shampoo at Wally's. Measure your lawn. The app rate is 3 ounces per 1,000 square feet. If your lawn is 4,000 square feet, you need 12 ounces of soap. Put that amount into your hose end sprayer and set the dial to 3 ounces per gallon. Spray that on your lawn until it is gone. Then irrigate the lawn. Apply a full inch of water. Since your soil is currently hard, I would expect the water to run off after about a minute. As soon as you see runoff, stop watering and wait for 15-30 minutes. Then continue watering until you see runoff again or until you get a full inch of water down. The irrigation will carry the soap down into the soil where it will soften your soil. Actually all the soap does is help maintain a more even moisture level deeper into the soil. Then next week water without the soap. The week after that, repeat the soap and water again. That should do it for your hard soil. Soil is supposed to be hard when dry and soft when moist. And it should absorb water like a sponge - meaning it should run off at first and then suck it up like a, well, sponge. Your builder didn't do anything to the soil before he planted grass. Cry me a river. He didn't do anything for the rest of the lawns in your neighborhood either and they're doing fine. You don't have to do anything to the soil before you plant sod. You're supposed to water (properly), mow (properly), and fertilizer (properly) after the sod is down. For bermuda you should water it no more frequently than once a month in the cool season and work your way up to every 7 days when the temps approach 100 degrees. If you are in soft sand with an arid breeze blowing off the mountains, then you can water every 5 days in the heat of summer. When you water go for a full inch every time. If you get an inch of rain then you don't need to water. If you get 1/3 inch of rain, then you need to add 2/3 of irrigation. Bermuda needs to be mowed at least every week and preferably 2x per week. Mow it at 1.5 inches or lower. If that setting scalps the lawn, then you have other issues which can be fixed. Bermuda needs to be fertilized with lots of nitrogen every month to look its best. Forget about weed n feed products. They don't do what you think they will do anyway - waste of money. Use a real man's fertilizer and a real man's weed killer. Don't fertilize in the spring until you mow real grass (not weeds) for the second time. Fertilizing before that time is a waste of money. Why? Because fertilizer works through the roots. If you don't have grass growing, the roots aren't taking up nutrients. Once you get grass growing, then hit it with high N fert every month until about Thanksgiving. NOTE TO OTHER READERS - THIS IS ONLY FOR BERMUDA. Hope this helps. Read the Bermuda Bible....See Morehard clay soil help!
Comments (5)welcome to the wonderful world i share with you! This was my 1st attempt @ a veg. garden and it actually didn't go to bad considering I read up all winter long in preparation for the growing season. I tilled lots of store bought compost from lowe's into the rows, I feel this helps greatly cuz my soil wasn't even growing weeds!!!then i piled on dead leaves from last fall, lotsa straw, coffee grounds, etc. I been reading into cover crops, and forage radish...i think it was......was supposed to be great for breaking up heavly clay and it's subsoils....dunno if i'll try it or not, might just mix some winter rye with a cover crop mix..... also in the mean time, you could be working on a compost pile, seeing how you got access to hay and manure, this will also greatly help the soil whether you till it in or not. plus adds nutrients, etc. good stuff....See MoreI keep hitting hard clay... sigh... any suggestions?
Comments (7)The product that barrierisland mentions is also called soil conditioner. It is simply pine bark fines (ground pine bark). I make raised beds with 80% pine bark and grow my daylilies in that mix. Great stuff! When used in a soiless mix, the pine bark draines very well indeed. When I lived in Atlanta, I had awful red clay soil. The cheapest, best product I found for keeping clay broken up was perlite. You can purchase big bags of it at H.D. for cheap! Up there, I used a witches brew of perlite, manure, potting soil, 10-10-10 and pine bark in my beds and those beds would grow anything! It was the best mix of stuff I could find to incorporate into the clay to break it up....See Morehard clay soil
Comments (5)The solution to bad soil is raised beds filled with good soil. If this isn't appropriate for your planting then the next best solution for clay is an organic mulch. The reason your clay soil gets rock hard is it is clay. Dry clay and it gets rocklike. Dry it further and it pulls in on itself and cracks. It is then resistant to water which means you have to slow soak your beds to water them. Fertilizer spread on the surface just runs off. If your soil is also sodic then you also get plate like hard surface layers which are light in color. These have to be broken up manually or plants can't grow through them and oxygen, water and nutrients can't either. If you mulch the beds then the clay soil never gets completely dry and therefore never gets rock hard and resistant to water. It doesn't form cracks and the surface plate never forms. By all means keep adding the compost, inches at a time. But an organic mulch will finish things and tame the clay and make it a decent growing medium. I like small wood pieces, but hay, straw, newspaper, shredded leaves and many other materials work too....See Moreathenainwi
14 years agozeuspaul
14 years agomitch_in_the_garden
14 years agocalifornian
14 years agodigdirt2
14 years agozeuspaul
14 years ago
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