I have not been over watering...planted them up in 3 inch peat pots. I bottom water them until the peat pot is wet and then don't water them again until the soil and pot is bone dry and some of the seedlings start to wilt just a little. I know you don't think you are over watering but you are or the leaves wouldn't be yellowing. And the peat pots are contributing to the problem which is why many of us won't use them - ever. The peat pots wick water up too quickly and then wick it away from the soil and the plant roots thus forcing you to water more frequently. When you water until the pot is wet it is too much water for the roots and the leaves yellow. Then the pot dries quickly and begins to pull the water out of the soil drying it out and making you think you need to water again. If you cannot get rid of the peat pots and move the plants into plastic cups which is the recommended solution, then you will have to water them from the top using a small watering can so that only the soil itself is watered until it is only slightly moist. Make sure the pot gets little of it. The check the deeper soil moisture level, not the pot condition, before watering again. Going from real wet to bone dry should be avoided at all costs. You want a consistent LOW level of moisture in the soil. Hope this helps. Dave PS: lots of discussions about the many problems with peat pots here you might want to read for future reference. And do be sure to strip it all off the plants before transplanting them.

Do you have a picture of the seedling(s) in question? I am new at growing from seeds, and mine are all less than a foot tall. But the very first leaves they grew (which are now the lowest down) have yellowed and/or fell off. Might check a couple things though (in general)...how dry/wet is the soil? Better on the dry side than the wet, as plumies don't like "wet feet." (soil that's too wet/no drainage). Check the stem for softness (the firmer the better, otherwise could be root rot). Hope this helps... Mark

More than one thing causes this but first I would check for spidermites. Place a piece of white paper under the leaf and tap the leaf. If it is mites you should see tiny pepper size spots crawling on the paper.

I hope you shaded it after transplanting. For the winter inside it lost it's hardness. 18 inches tall and wide doesn't sound too big. My peppers by the end of the season are usually at least 2' high, may be more, and at least 20 inches wide (more, if I let them be.) you can trim it a little, I guess. But not the branch that is producing. Support that branch, tie it somewhere, it can easy snap under wind. Other than that, nothing at least 2 weeks after transplanting, then you can start fertilizing...