I'm wondering if you have over-done it with the fertilizers. The best cure of this is a good flush with clear water to dissipate the ferts. More is not better with ferts. Here's a link that may help. FWIW, my garlic is strong and hardy right now, I rarely water the beds this time of year. I have some tomato plants that are over-wintering well. I just throw in a handful of homemade compost from time to time, top with some soil or potting mix, depending if the plant is in the raised bed or in a container, then water it all in. Good luck, I hope they all pull through. Here is a link that might be useful: Tomato Symptom Chart This post was edited by marymcp on Sun, Jan 12, 14 at 10:08

Well she lives in Louisiana and the plants are already planted, in pots (unknown size), outside (per her page and the "no bugs") and the weather there has apparently been inconsistent this past week with cooler temps, wind, and quite a bit of rain (excess moisture and nutrient leaching from containers). This per the Weather Channel. We all know EXACTLY what is meant by "start of the leaves where they are attached to the stem" (if not, then we are in serious trouble here ;) but we don't know if it's cotyledons or not. So, assuming it is NOT the cotyledons where this would be a perfectly normal thing and so of no concern, my best "guesswork" is that there is no real problem. And if we have to wait for pictures from everyone before we try to help cover all the possible bases then we are in even more trouble than not knowing where the leaf joins the stem. ;) If the plants look healthy otherwise as stated above then they most likely are. They are in the process of adjusting to being transplanted and to the inconsistent weather problems and once those contributing factors disappear, so will the concerns. Heartsy - assuming you are using a decent size container and a decent container mix that has added time-released fertilizers in it then they will be fine. If it doesn't then don't over-water it, let it dry out some, protect it from the wind if necessary, and feed it on a regular basis with a balanced fertilizer - preferably one intended for tomatoes. Most importantly - enjoy your plants and the fruits thereof. ;) Dave

I am delighted to announce that both the original aspidistra plant and the offshoot I planted in a different pot are exhibiting new growth. For the record, I put them in a north facing window where they receive light but not direct light, give them one cup of water every 12-13 days, and left them alone. It seems July is the growing season for these plants, because it is also around this time last year that they put out new leaves. As for your yellowing Sans2014, I'm not sure what's causing it but I did find a pretty good site here where they may answer your question: http://www.ourhouseplants.com/plants/aspidistra From reading that site, it seems your problem could be caused by too cold temps (unlikely in July), too frequent repotting, or most likely overwatering. I water mine every 12-13 days and this is in July in Las Vegas, where temps in my apartment can reach 90 if i turn the A/C off before going to work. If you leave in a cooler climate, I wouldn't water it more than every two weeks, maybe even less.

That's a good point that I never thought about. But it's a matter of putting 2 and 2 together. BER is caused by an inability of the plant to move calcium around in it's tissues (it used to be ascribed to a calcium deficiency but it is not necessarily so), and magnesium is chemically very similar to calcium. So excess magnesium will interfere with calcium usage and uptake in plants. There has been some VERY odd advice running around that epsom salts *help* with BER. That's a complete myth.