Hi --I know what you mean. I just bought some sturdy plastic shelves about 6' high and store everything on there--The key is going through at least once a year and organizing everything. I keep small items like epsom salts, etc. in glass jars with lids and everthing else in clear plastic containers so i can see what's in it. You can find these at any big box store. The key is being able to look up at the shelves and see everything without diggin in it. I also stapled chicken wire to the ceiling of my garage out of the walkways and use this to hang stuff with S hooks I bought at the hardware store, or just bent clothes hanger wire will work. Good luck.

I normally use a mix of peat moss and perlite. I usually have pretty good luck but it does seem to dry out quickly. I'm trying Promix this year. I've never heard of Fafard. Where do you get it? Online? I've never seen it locally where I live. I just sowed my begonia seeds last week. I hope I'm not too late.

No odor. But that may also mean no nutrients. My uncle, an old farmer when I was growing up, spread manure on his fields and tilled it in within 24 hours of spreading it so the nutrients would not be lost to the atmosphere. He said what you smell from manure is nutrients going out into the air.

Since I mulch thickly with oak leaves (which my neighbors very nicely and conveniently rake up 'for me' and leave by the front curbs 'for me' to pick up) there's not a lot of weeds in the flower beds and hand pulling works for those few. When something is needed to kill deep rooted weeds like baby hackberry and pecan trees a broad leaf weed killer is used. Just a couple of drops full strength on new leaves will kill the whole plant. Being a plant hormone it's less toxic than the non selective weed killer commonly used, but I'm still very careful not to get it on my skin since I'm very sensitive to chemical products. You can also cut the stem of the plant you want to kill and put a drop on the cut area or stump and the roots will be killed. That way you can get rid of the part of the plant that shows by cutting it back and still kill the roots. Using the 'drop method' instead of spraying cuts down on the risk of getting a killing mist drift over to garden plants. However, I'm going to mix up a little broad leaf spray to treat the little tree seeds that sprouted by the thousands this year in the gravel paths and the front area that is graveled. I just bought 32 ounces of 'Ortho Weed B Gone Max for Southern Lawns' at Lowe's for $8.00. At this point with weeds and grass actively growing I'd think a selective broadleaf weed killer would work best for the lawn. "Broadleaf weed killers are selective herbicides that work in lawns by targeting dicots [broad leaved plants] that are actively growing while not harming the monocots such as lawn grass. The most common broadleaf weed killer is 2,4-D also known as Trimec. "2,4-D is an auxin or plant hormone that, when applied to the leaf area, simply confuses the plant to death. When auxin, the hormone that makes plants grow, is sprayed over the entire plant, the plant becomes deformed, then dies." If you have grassy weeds in addition to broadleaf weeds you can get away with just spraying the center of the grassy weed (being careful not to get it on the good grass) with a selective grass killer like 'Grass B Gone. I did that on the winter grass next door and it worked great. Here's a good article on many ways to eliminate weeds in lawns. Applying preemergents at the right time of year works great too. I think Oct and Feb were the times recommended for application in my city. If I'd been smart I would have sprinkled it on the gravel areas and not have the sprouted tree seeds that are there now. Weeding is sure not the most fun part of gardening. That's for sure! Here is a link that might be useful: How weed killers do their job ...