If the last one does not spread its canes for much over 6 feet long it could be a rambling type rose. It could also be a ground cover type rose. Some of those ground cover type roses even creep along and where ever the ends of their canes touch soil, they root. If that happens simply cut the cane, and you will have just allowed the new rooting to become another independant rose plant. As far as the sunscald advice goes, simply move the rose to the east side of a tall enough structure so that the rose receives morning sun and afternoon shade. Also remove the affected leaves, and discard them in the trash. Then clean the pruning tools in a manner that decontaminates them just in case it is some form of contageous disease. To go even further, you could treat the leaves and stems remaining on the plant with anti-fungal and anti-pest sprays and powders. Repeat that treatment as directed, until the rose begins producing new leaves which remain healthy looking. If your climate has been very humid this year, it would not hurt to treat all your roses as just described. Also when watering, avoid letting the leaves get wet. In morning dew on the leaves situations, monitor them to be sure the leaves dry by at least if not before midday. If not, move them to an area where they will receive more air circulation. Every thing you discover that works for your roses while they are potted should help you determine where they will prosper best after being planted.

I'm guessing its just a response to the cold soil temperatures we had this winter. When soils are cool, plants (especially citrus) have a hard time pulling nutrients out of the soil. When the weather warms up the symptoms usually dissapear. This is one reason why it isn't beneficial to fertilize in the winter - plant roots are pretty inactive at this time of year and can't process the nutrients. As long as you followed the recommended amounts when applying your fertilizer your tree should be fine. In case you need more information on fertilizing, use the U of A publication located at the link below. A guide to common nutrient deficiencies and herbicide damage can be found at http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1007/contents.html Here is a link that might be useful: Fertilizing citrus

Thanks so much Kathy! I wrote the numbers down but forgot to ask for a list from you. Glad I peeked in here before the message went away. I can't wait to see them bloom. Thanks again, Suzy

Question:"Threedodsmom (waht a cute name!), what is the yellow flower in your fist picture? And I love the lush look in your second picture. I see some dark red in there. What are they?" Answer: standard button garden mum planted last fall, blooming now in July. A happy coincidence ! Dark red touches are Jacob Cline monarda, knockout rose new growth showing, and canna "Wyoming" leaves. Second Question: "Threedogsmom, I have those exact daylilies that are in your first picture - rust with bright yellow - a gift with no name tag. I always wondered but assumed they are just a variety of Ditch Lily. Is that right, or do you have some other name for them?" Answer: They are not the common ditch lilies - you can see a ditch lily in my second pic down, to the right, a tall scape towards the front/right of the bed. You can see more pics in the "poised for lily explosion" thread I started. I do not remember the name of the burgundy and yellow daylilies in the first pic, but they have multiplied very well in just 2 years ! Got at Lowe's.