Star jasmine would definitely be a better choice for good foliage and flowers on both sides of the trellis. Other evergreen vines of similar easy growth and habit might include Clytostoma callistegioides, or Pink Jasmine/Jasminum polyanthum. While the Solanum jasminoides is especially fast and does bloom prolifically, in my opinion it looks a bit rangey and coarse after the first couple of years. You might also consider another summer blooming fragrant vine such as Mandevilla laxa, which could combine nicely with Star Jasmine and extend the summer bloom period. If you wanted some fast cover and outrageous color as a warm season annual vine, different color forms of Thunbergera alata can't be beat.

Eduarda, I think you're in my head. I just spent the day hauling mulch for the North Bed on the other side of the house. When I finished, I moved 6 euonymous plants to the "fence" area. They're 8' apart and set back 2' from the edge of the driveway. I know it will take years to reach a 6' height, but with proper water, strategic pruning, and fertilizer, I can work wonders. I also checked on the wintersown shrubs I put out in Dec. I have lilac, mock orange, and rose of sharon seedlings. I really want a fair amount of evergreen in there, but I'm willing to compromise. For the most part, the backyard will only be used in the summer. That's when I really need the hedge for privacy. Otherwise, it's just a barrier from the street to the "lawn". I was even thinking this year of planting some datura, lantana, and pineapple sage. If I deadhead before they set seeds, I can treat all that as annuals. That gives me a year of rather large plants while my shrubs set their roots. I also have buddelia and Carolina allspice planted. I have white crepe myrtles too. And lavender crepes that I'm trying to propagate through root and hardwood cuttings. I've got wigelia cuttings I'm rooting. And forsythia and quince for spring blooms. And pyracantha in the cloner that have already callused. I can even add in a couple gardenias on the shadier end. With all I have going for me, the idea of planting a boring green wall of euonymous sounds kind of lazy. I think I'll get out with the tiller tomorrow and break up the rest of the area. I think 8' wide should be plenty of space to create a nice border garden. That will mean two loads of leaf mulch from the landfill one day next week. If I use enough trees, I can even create a semi-shade garden on the East side. It would only get morning light. On the driveway side I have roses that I'm propagate too. Since they are patented, it would be illegal to sell them. I didn't know what I could do with them. I think a nice bright red border on that side would work nicely to stop the traffic at the end of the driveway. And of course I need an arbor now to mark the access point. And some climbing roses or maybe a clematis. Oh, I have rooted cuttings of Confederate Jasmine. See...this is why I ask you guys for opinions. I'll get my evergreen base and accent with flowering trees, shrubs, add some perennials, some roses, and suddenly, it's not just a green hedge. Thanks everyone for the suggestions.

This gives an idea of what to avoid which is a good place to start for any plan. From a link on the Selby Gardens website: "Can planting ever be a bad thing? Yes, if you choose the wrong plant. Silent invasion is not the only way troublesome plants can get established on your property. Many arrive as pretty plants in pots, introduced willingly by eager gardeners who plant them only to later realize the monster they have released. Plants listed in FLEPPC's Category I are illegal to sell, so you shouldn't see them available at nurseries. But think about how these plants came to Florida - brought in by humans, most as ornamentals. Consider the story of the noxious weed carrotwood (Cupaniopsis anacardioides). This sturdy, handsome tree from Asia became very popular in the landscape after it was introduced into Sarasota, FL in the late 1960's. The lesson is this: today's ornamentals can become tomorrow's pests. Botanical gardens that cultivate exotic plants such as Selby Gardens are very mindful of this potential, and scrutinize their collections closely for weedy tendencies. Note plants that produce copious amounts of fruits or seeds. Be concerned about species with a rambunctious habit. If you can't contain them, remove them! Here are some punk plants to avoid when selecting plants for your landscape: Produce many seeds Overgrow other plants Difficult to erradicate cardboard palm (Zamia furfuracea) clock vine (Thunbergia grandiflora) arrowhead vine (Syngonium podophyllum) coral creeper (Barleria repens) coral vine (Antigonon leptopus) asparagus fern (Asparagus densiflorus) Indian rosewood (Dalbergia sissoo) Egyptian papyrus (Cyperus papyrus) Clerodendrum spp. Jatropha spp. Indian rubbervine (Cryptostegia madagascariensis) creeping daisy (Wedelia trilobata) orange jessamine (Murraya paniculata) Japanese honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica) false shamrock (Oxalis regnellii) orchid tree (Bauhinia variegata) jasmine (Jasminum spp.) Ganges primrose (Asystasia gangetica) oyster plant (Rhoeo spathacea) mahoe (Hibiscus tiliaceus) pothos (Epipremnum aureum) Philippine violet (Barleria cristata) passion flower (Passiflora spp.) running bamboo (Phyllostachys spp.) Solanum spp. Rangoon creeper (Quisqualis indica) snake plant (Sansevieria trifasciata) umbrella tree (Schefflera actinophylla) wandering Jew (Tradescantia zebrina) sword fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia) wild petunia (Ruellia brittoniana) wild taro (Colocasia esculenta)" Here is a link that might be useful: Marie Selby Botanical Gardens

I use the process in the article referenced by " pretty_saab"with a slight variation/s. I dome the, vinyl ad-mix, concrete at the posts to prevent the affect of ponding which van occur from soil subsidence, wash the posts with vinegar, prime, using a string line mount the brackets. The field posts are sleeved/enclosed with 1x and 2x for posts where gates are installed. There are any number of capitols available for the post tops, or you can fashion your own.