The aspect of rearranging a multitude of plants (of unknown quantities) you already have into other parts of the yard would be very complex, and therefore, difficult. It's not probable that you could get much comprehensive help by remote. You definitely have a knack for creating, ambition and some stock to work with. Even though certain aspects of the plan are a little funky looking by professional standards, what you've done nevertheless has charm and a certain homespun appeal that many people enjoy immensely. I don't mean any of that in any negative way. There are lots of lovely things around the world that are created like this. I would like to give you some food for thought as you progress with the project. Essentially, you are creating a functional piece of art. Because the main function is that of being a space that one is able to move through, it is easiest to think of it as a room or series of rooms (as you determine) that just happens to be outdoors. Therefore, it is made primarily of plants, dirt, trees and rocks ... those things that hold up well outdoors. Like inside, the room is made of "floor," "ceiling," "walls," "windows" and "doorways." If you were creating an indoor space, though you might have general ideas about them, you would not begin by dreaming about specific lamps, drapes, tables and chairs. You'd begin by thinking about window and door placements, wall textures and colors, trim and molding, floors and finishes, and how the ceiling will handle light. Later would come objects that go in the room that blend with the room itself: tables, chairs, lamps, rugs etc. For some odd reason, when we are creating outside space, people have the perpetual habit of falling in love with things ... objects (usually plants) that go in the room and start cramming the room full with their "pets" before they give much thought about the and architectural framework of the room itself. Outdoors, a tree or arbor creates a ceiling. A tree's canopy can not only seems like a roof, but also a very tall wall. Woody plants and vines can creates walls of whatever height one wishes. Sometimes they need extra support. Sometimes only trimming. Low growing, spreading plants create floors (as do rocks and earth.) Before thinking about irises, peonies and daffodils, it would be better to forget entirely about all the plants and concentrate on the forms, arrangements, heights and sizes that will define the room itself. You've all ready got a good start with a floor made of rock. Maybe it should be (visually) extended somewhat larger with a low growing, woolly looking mat of vegetation. It looks like you have begun a low wall already to separate the view into the neighbor's yard. Maybe a higher elevation "floor" (of plant material) should transition form the low floor to that wall. There are some good looking, freestanding "columns" (clean tree trunks ... very nice! ... almost palm tree like) to one side of the patio. Maybe each would look good resting on a circular base. You could begin by envisioning these "architectural" features of a plastic, formless material. (I once liked to think of everything being made of bread dough since it can take on any form.) Once the overall forms shape up, one could begin thinking about the specific character that will make up the forms. One might turn a ball of bread dough into a big leaf hydrangea, or a hedge of them. A pizza form that has been rolled out and placed next to the patio might become a bed of wild ginger or vinca minor ... it depends on what you like, what you have, the light and moisture conditions, and what you're willing to put up with. (Some plants have bad habits but they are so beautiful they must be tolerated!) You call the shots. I've gone on enough, but I think you get the general idea. Fall in love with the plants AFTER you know what you need and get those that can fill the bill. Sometimes a hedge can be a single plant material ... or it can be mixture of similar-sized plants, depending on the character that is desired. Usually, plant lovers can find a way to squeeze in -- in a sensible, artistic way -- most of the things they love. But if you don't do the architectural exercise first, you run the risk of creating something with a hodgepodge, cemetery-ish appearance ... with things sitting all over the place. It's good that you recognize the faults of the arbor. If it was at least 2' wider, a foot taller and made of beefier wood -- and painted! -- it would work better. I'll return with a hardscape suggestion when I get more time.

Here's some suggestions: Chitalpa - hybrid of Desert Willow and Catalpa (look at the flowering trees in the little park at the corner of Mineral Way and Mount Carmel. "Koelreoteria paniculata": Golden rain tree - Open branching deciduous tree 18 �25� tall. Compound lobed leaves, flower clusters in summer, fruit-like little brown lanterns in fall. Takes heat, cold, alkaline soil and is drought tolerant when established. Currently blooming around town with bright yellow flowers on the tips of the branches. Specimens can be seen near the apartments at NMT. Robinia neomexicana : New Mexico or rose locust - Deciduous large shrub to tree. Large clusters of pink or purple flowers in spring followed by fuzzy seed pods. Thorns on all stems and branches. Good windbreak, erosion control and wildlife plants. Full sun, any soil, drought tolerant when established Want's to be multi-stemmed, but can be controlled. Easy to spot when it's blooming. Sambucas nigra ssp. cerulea : Mexican elderberry - (formerly Sambucas mexicana) This 20� tree has thick wide spreading branches with pale-green compound leaves. White flower clusters in spring produce an edible blue black fruit. Drought tolerant when established, well drained soil, sun to part shade. Sapindus saponaria var. drummondii : Western soapberry - Desert tree ranging from 10-30� depending on water availability. Leaves are compound with 12 or more on a branch. Inconspicuous flowers in spring produce fruit that looks much like a garbanzo bean. Fruit poisonous if large quantities eaten. Full sun, any soil, drought tolerant.

The site has a couple of tall pine and ceder trees behind it so it gets filtered sun to full sun depending on where. My tomatoes are doing great and Ice Bergs look good so far. Yes concrete walls and patio, but I think with the trees it should not get too too hot. This will be my first summer so we will see. The area is on the north side but the beds face south and east. THe previous owners installed eye hooks all around the wall. I have put up garden string for the vines to climb on. I hope it is strong enough. I love the ideas of the geraniums, will have to look for them. Will they be messy?

First, conifers like pines and cedars dropping needles does not make soil acidic. That is due primarily to the underlying mineral component of the soil and the amount of rainfall the area receives. Heavy rainfall areas tend towards acidic soil. Since the vast majority of plants prefer acid soil anyway, you are probably good to go. With lots of the trees in the area, your primary concern is going to be root competition and lack of soil moisture and a sparsity of nutrients as a result. Big trees have big, aggressive root systems that hog all the goodies. Plants you select to go in this area should be drought tolerant and not have a lot of other demands regarding nutrient issues. Even then you will need to baby them for a couple of seasons with water and fertilizer until they become established. I'll second the Beth Chatto rcommendation. And I'd add The Complete Shade Garden, by George Schenk. Both should have numerous suggestion of plants recommended for dry shade.