I just planted a 3 ft Japanese tree lilac that came in a 3 gal pot from a local nursery. The planting media was a bark based compost mixture that basically fell apart, exposing the entire root system, when I tried to get it out of the pot. These types of plants are root pruned and potted for commercial sale. They basically dig the tree, place it in a half filled pot and put more dirt on top, before it goes on the truck. There's no real science to how this is done. Mine had at least 2" of extra potting media on top of what would have been the correct planting depth in the pot. It was actually nice that the media was so loose of material. It allowed me to bare root the tree and do some untangling of the roots before planting in my native soil (at the correct depth). :-)

Cedar-Apple rust has two phases ... on the serviceberry is half of it; control works best if you can treat both hosts. Of course, that's easiest if both are on your property ... if only the serviceberry is yours, it'll be difficult to resolve. We actually treat the juniper more than we do much with the serviceberry. It's an imperfect treatment, since the juniper is 50' tall, and we only used a 6' ladder to cut off galls, but we definitely have seen a marked improvement between a couple years ago when it got introduced by a sick serviceberry and this year (almost not ugly orange blobs). I imagine there are other hosts in the area, so yes, eradication is still unlikely. Oddly, the flowering quince only a couple yards from the serviceberry has shown little or no sign of infection, so no idea what's up with that ... perhaps it's not susceptible to the strain of rust we've got. I can't say I've seen the birds turn down serviceberry fruits even woth the rust ... they still clear out the tree ... maybe that's also dependent on which rust one is dealing with? Anyways, back to the original question ... apparently the answer is starting as new growth begins to appear, and repeating at appropriate intervals ... https://mortonarb.org/plant-and-protect/tree-plant-care/plant-care-resources/cedar-apple-rust/#management https://extension.psu.edu/cedar-apple-and-related-rusts-on-ornamentals

It's a little misleading- the blue cloak is 8' or 9' from the foundation. The yellow juniper will be removed once the BC fir Begins to put on width. Basically the SB should have about 20 feet of spacing to grow. I don't think they get too much bigger. I'm in Canada it's cold up here and stuff takes a long time to grow so not too worried about the SB overwhelming the planting site. I do want a bit of a screen b/w my neighbor and I. He's always out on that driveway!! 😂 Thanks!!

Selections aside, you will likely need to plant two different ones to achieve decent cross-pollination (Amelanchier sp. are members of Rosaceae) and thus quality fruit set to satisfy birds. 'Cumulus', 'Spring Flurry', 'Autumn Brilliance', 'Prince William' are some named selections. Several seedling plants would also satisfy the requirement.