What is brand, size, and model of furnace? You might post compete model number. I would get a good brand-no low end model-13 SEER with matching evap coil. No higher than 75 decibel. New and properly sized lineset. Should be installed to code. A new disconnect at the location. I prefer a poured concrete pad rather than a prefab or plastic model. Location should be close to furnace for best and easy connection. Physical size of condenser really depends on tonnage size of condenser. Guessing 3-3 1/2 tons depending on summer climate and your home's insulation qualities. While you can probably get any brand, I would lean to the same brand as furnace. Just a few ideas. IMO

I decided on the 80% AFUE...2 stage York furnace simply because: #1)Our home is located 2 miles from the beach ( Santa Monica California )...and I feel it should be sufficient. with our (usually) mild climate ( Am I wrong ?) #2) A 90% AFUE furnace would cost an additional $1000.00...In your opinion should I spend the extra money for 90% AFUE ??? The contractor will be installing next week. Please reply ASAP As an update...It looks like I will not be able to add the central air system :...the cost is HUGE because I would have to REPLACE AND MOVE my entire electrical box from its original location . It will not accomodate an additional 50 AMP breaker !!...Cost would be (approx)an extra $ 4000.00 plus whatever city permits and code upgrades may cost!! To summarize...York Gas Furnace... New ducts (cal flex silver jack 6.0 ) Thermostat : Honeywell 8000 model Air Filtration : Aprilaire 2250 TOTAL COST $ 4800. I have one more question...please:....My original register return for gas furnace is located on wall near floor level in my hallway...I was told by contractor that this is not the correct location for it....It should be moved to ceiling of my hallway..Unless I hear otherwise from this forum...I will have it moved as he suggests...SHOULD I seal up the old register return or let it remain but it will not be functioning ??... Thanks all !!

Ryan... It would be R-22. We did talk about that and my concern about being 'stuck' down the road somewhere. I'm assuming the R-410A is the replacement higher pressure stuff? This guy was telling me that this unit has the ability to be converted to the new stuff if needed. He used a term like 'drop in', I think? Personally and just using my own logic here, it seems to me that the R-22 at it's lower pressure and it's ability to be recharged is the better way to go even with the phase out. It's been around so long and what are the odds that it will need to be recharged? I'm sure this is a debatable issue and could create some heated discussion. But is the risk of getting the older stuff all that high? This guy did give me two other options moving up in price. The price leap was pretty significant moving into the $5000 range....then to $6000 on the higher end unit. I quickly had him discard those since I can't justify that cost to cool this old house. These units would have been more efficient and include multiple stages or something to that effect. I know there was an option to get the newer refrigerant right off the bat. There was no pressure or scare tactics to to that. In fact, he gave it to me pretty straight about the drawbacks to the new stuff. I guess this could be taken a couple of ways. One of which these dealers want to off the older units before the phase out starts. He did say that it would be available for the next 10 years? Of course I had to arrange the estimate at the HD store, but it was the contractor that showed up at the house. My gut tells me to trust these guys. There was no pressure (upselling or asking for credit card numbers) during the visit or after (no phone ringing off the hook like other HD estimates I had). The ten year warranty and their professional approach looked pretty good to me. I think the 1 year same as cash may be a break even situation where HD takes their cut. I've had enough estimates to pick out the knuckleheads in my experience. These guys look ok, at least to me. He is also going to honor my request to have the unit set away from my screened in porch....which is directly next to my furnace. It would be going around the back corner of my house at no extra charge. He said the extra distance would not cause any problems. It would be an additional 15 ft. run for the copper tubing. I think I asked all the right questions. I just got myself completely out of debt (including paying off my mortgage) which makes this a tough decision. In this who-knows-what's-going-to-happen-next economy we got here, I'm prepared for the worst. I'm just battling the dilemna of taking myself into the red again. Also, at what point does the IRS give me a tax break for doing this? Thanks again.

The things you have to consider are: (1) the climate in your location; (2) whether houses in your neighborhood, of about the same value as yours, have central AC; (3) the cost of putting AC in. In the South, AC is EXPECTED. But in the Northeast there is, or used to be, the belief that you don't need AC because it gets hot for only a few days. Having lived in both climates, I can tell you that central AC is greatly appreciated in both, but it is usually not expected in the Northeast. It might not pay to put it in if the houses in your neighborhood are very modest and, say, built in the 1950s when central AC was rare. If you already have a forced air heating system, central AC is easy and relatively inexpensive, unless there are some technical complications with the ductwork that needs correcting. But if you have to install ductwork from scratch, the cost goes up a lot, and you may then get a smaller percentage return on investment when you sell. The outside consideration is your own priority for your own personal comfort while you live there. After you have figured out the cost of a central AC for your house, you could go to a local realtor and ask about it in terms of expected return on investment. They know the area and could probably tell you. In fact, go to 2 or 3 realtors to see if they agree.