A pick ax? Seriously? Actually, I don't think I need one for the soil in the hightunnels. We'll be out there soon tilling the beds and getting them ready for the lisianthus and Karma dahlias. BTW -- In the dead of winter someone shovels paths to the hightunnels. We have to keep the snow load off. These structures in our climate are like children. They need to be babysat all the time. When you least expect it, one will collapse from the weight of snow. This has happened even though these structures are built for our climate. Well, maybe not the one that collapsed. But, we learned from our experience. Good that we did because when we don't, we get to repeat the lesson all over again. In our climate, the hightunnels cannot have three purlins running the length of the structure. Only one, and the snow is supposed to fall off on its own. The emphasis being on supposed to if you put the structure up correctly in the first place. Another lesson. Anyway, back to Zantedeschia aethiopica. I am thinking planted directly in beds in the hightunnel. And, they will probably get taller than if planted in the field. Thinking the catalog suggested planting in the fall because it's geared toward growing year round in a hightunnel. That would be the reasoning for planting them in the fall. They'd get a jump start on growing earlier in the season. As far as the Dutch grown color callas, we would highly recommend growing these in bulb crates. Shipment begins this week on these callas. FWIW We do leave the miniature gladioli in the field. And, as you mentioned, Steve, we do plant these deep.

Just checked to make sure I have some seeds! Email me your mailing address and I'll send some your way. The plants would even look better, but I keep them low on the nitrogen, because they store nitrates in the leaves, so watch out with that, because it can lead to oxalic acid in the greens and then it'll be like biting on a sand particle one in a while. It's harmless in that concentration, but I still don't like it. Best for me is that in my nematode infested soil, which almost every veggie gets killed sooner or later, this isn't affected. And personally I like the taste better than spinach, it doesn't have that funny aftertaste. The pic is how I cut it then then it regrows right away multiple times. If I see bugs I spray pyrethrin or Pt, but not on a regular basis, just don't have the time....

Anney, I only grow (1) lima & (1) runner bean in my main plot; but I try to grow 2-3 rows, in different locations. Both of these are tall, free flowering, and more attractive to bees than common beans... so they make great barrier crops. I use pole yardlongs as barriers too, but they are less effective, since the blossoms close early in the day. Multiple rows can enable a variety to be a barrier for itself. Provided that I have enough seed, I grow a row of limas on the outside of the garden (facing my neighbors), with a second row of the same variety close to the center. If the bees are very active, the center row is more likely to "cross" with the outside row than with anything grown by my neighbors. As Fusion mentioned, cucurbits (such as squash, melons, & cucumbers) make great barrier crops. I grow a lot of bitter melon, which is a vigorous climber. When grown on a trellis, it forms a dense flowering barrier as tall as the pole beans (fragrant too, when in bloom). Trellised cukes or Tromboncino squash work well too. Instead of placing all cukes & bitter melon in one large planting, I divide them up into 2-3 smaller plantings, scattered throughout the garden. I do the same thing with okra, dividing it into several rows at different locations. For flowers, I use cleome, a flowering mallow (Malva sylvestris "Zebrina"), sunflowers, cosmos, and basil. These are also dispersed throughout the garden. I can't speak highly enough of the "Zebrina" mallow; it flowers heavily & continuously, and is a really great pollen source. I've seen 6-7 different species of bees at the same time on a single plant, and large plantings will attract honeybees. It volunteers heavily, but to me that is a good thing... I choose my weeds carefully. ;-) It has now displaced the 2 wild mallows that were native to my area. When all of these barriers are combined (which takes a bit of planning), the effect is to create a maze that controls and/or restricts the movement of pollinators, and provides numerous places for them to "wipe their feet" as they cross the garden.

update; We're on for the 12th. We're waiting to hear back from The Boathouse in Central Park for brunch/lunch (12:30 if they'll take us), and we'll be making a reservation at Becco (in the theater district) for dinner. As of now, we can make a reservation anytime between 7:00 and 8:00 if more people can make earlier or later, we'll go with that (if the time we choose is still available when I call back). I will email the peole who've indicated interest in joining us. If you haven't already said so, and want to join us for brunch/lunch, dinner or both, please let me know asap re: any/all of the above, so I can make those reservations. Thanks!