Permeable means it s ability to allow liquids to pass through. Chicken wire is fine if you have moles/voles but landscape fabric is only mildly permeable. Testing consistently shows it slows drainage substantially. It is not ever recommended for the bottom of a bed by experienced gardeners and it would have no effect on the moles and voles anyway. 75:25 compost:loam is high on the compost side and the quality depends on your definition of "loam". Means many different things. But as long as it isn't so-called "top soil" or sand a 50/50 mixture of it would probably work. More commonly you see the recommendation for 40:60. But you will have to add more compost at least once a year and better 2x a year as it continues to shrink as it decomposes. I get the impression you aren't interested in first trying to improve your native soil and incorporate it into the bed, correct? That is the best route to go. But if not then you need to understand that overtime it can affect whatever you fill your bed with unless you made some sort of solid bottom box which is not at all recommended. But you can still make it work with a framed raised bed on top of it with chicken wire or hardware cloth on the bottom IF you keep the bed well and frequently amended with quality compost. Over time the leachate and soil bacteria will improve the soil below the bed as well. Dave

For best results possible, yes you will need to provide some supplemental nutrients throughout the season. Normally the only way that can be skipped is if the bed already has a well established soil food web to work on it and sufficient organic matter mixed in. That can take 3-5 years to develop depending on how hard you work at it. So keep first year expectations for your garden at a reasonable level, ok? :) What you choose to use as your nutrient supplement is up to you but there are 100's of other products available besides the one you mentioned. Also keep in mind that it is the plants you feed not the bed as a whole. In other words your supplements need to be focused on the particular plant's needs and they each have different needs. You can either use one of the many liquid fertilizers as plant root drench or do side-dressing of the plants with a good dry, granular fertilizer. Learn your plants specific needs, the symptoms they will show when they need feeding, and the best times during their growth cycle to feed each. And during this first season use every opportunity you have to add much more organic matter, usually in the form of compost or composted manures so your soil microherd can begin to develop. Enjoy your garden. Dave

Jbest123, No one is doubting that compost is high in nutrients. This is why it makes up 1/3 of the mix. The other 2/3's are strictly for structure and water retention. Your test shows compost is "above Optimum" so this addition would surely put you right in the middle of "Optimum". But as I mentioned before, to each their own. Mel has even pushed the 100% compost in areas of the world that don't have access to peat and vermiculite. It is definitely cheaper to do it that way so there really is no wrong way.

Agree you don't need potting soil, it does indeed have a different texture. I'm not sold on worm castings, rock dust and mycorrhiza: Worm castings are great compost but any kind of compost can do that job as far as I know. If you have or can get them inexpensively, they sure don't hurt. I have not tried to buy a bag because I make my own compost. Rock dust is what soil is made of, so, if you have soil, you likely have all the trace minerals needed. We had a huge discussion on rock dust here just the other day. If you have done a soil test and find your soil is deficient in a certain mineral - which does happen, just not very often - then you should amend with that mineral. Otherwise you're throwing fruit salad at...fruit salad, and paying for the privilege. As for fungi: they are extremely important for soil and plant health, but they should already be present in soil and compost. Fungi feed on decaying organic matter, so if you have plenty of compost in your soil, you'll have all the fungi you need. But again, it doesn't actually hurt anything. I'm just not convinced it helps if you have otherwise healthy soil.