Joe, my experience is exactly like yours. With each new year the new growths become larger than their mothers. Dividing plants keeps them smaller and probably less likely to flower. I believe pot size is also a consideration, as well as a fertilization program. Dividing is also a way to keep plants smaller if you are cramped for space. Sans can definitely be "bonsaied" on purpose, but I never saw the point.
Michaela

Hi Joe etal,
I've been absent from this forum for a long time but I am still growing all my sansevierias, which have taken over much of my house.

I have thought about exactly this subject for many years; and I have conflicting opinions and theories. I always wanted to grow my sans to full size, which distinguished me from the other sansevierias growers I knew whose space issues meant they kept their plants in small pots.

The goal, to get the tallest leaves, seeing the fully mature form of the growth and to see the inflorescence is the reason for growing this way. But, we sacrifice a lot of space and time in this goal.

I agree to some extent that when plants are left connected as a group of growths that the new growth is enhanced and more likely to reach flowering and maturity. But, I feel there are limits to this. I think the example of orchids is not too dissimilar. In genera like cattleyas the rule of thumb is that you need three growths to grow flowering new growths. Whether you need one, three, or more, I don't know but I think there is something like this, with sansevierias. What I feel is more important, is the root system of the new growth. Growing in a large pot will result in a more vigorous plant. Leaving the new growth connected to the old growth(s) until fully grown is then important. But, there is a point where the old growths stops contributing in a significant way. So, I do think that for many species you can maintain a continuing increase in new growths while removing old growths on a regular basis. But, perhaps by leaving one, two or more back growths connected to the new growth.

As you noted and I also found, that when sans are neglected they can go for a long time between watering; but they do suffer. When watering and feeding is kept up on a more regular basis growth really can take off. When you have a plant that is in a bright warm location, and is well fed and watered, it can grow very fast and reach maturity quickly. A bright house is often better than a greenhouse for the simple fact that homes are generally kept warmer in winter than greenhouses.

I have grown some species that I found very unsatisfying. I am thinking of one in particular, the rather undistinguished S. senegambica. In small pots this one makes boring bland green growths that often become distorted, while new rhizomes shoot out over the top and through drainholes. I got frustrated with this one, and finally decided--"What the heck". So, I potted up my plants together in a standard black plastic five gallon nursery pot, giving it front and center at a east facing picture window. The plant took off, and actually made a fairly attractive plant, with well formed tall growths, still boring green, but making a nice thick patch of growths filling the top of the pot, and flowering regularly. This worked for several years, but the downfall inevitably came. One day, I noticed a new rhizome had burst a small hole right through the side of the sturdy pot and was heading out at a rapid pace. I didn't know what to do, so I left it. Eventually the new shoot landed about two feet away in the saucer of another sans. rooted on the bare plastic and grew around that saucer and even got into the drain hole. Finally I did something and cut off this errant growth, but the five gallon pot was ruined and leaks as I water it. So, I am still no fan of senegambica.

Five gallon tubs though are a good way to eventually grow some of the vigorous species like metallica, 'Alva', and others that refuse to cooperate in smaller pots.

Jon

Jon I have had several Sans that popped out of the side of a pot or grew from the drain hole. Fortunately they were in inexpensive plastic pots, as the pot had to be cut apart with metal shears to remove the plant. I felt like a doctor performing surgery!
Other pots became distorted from round to oval as the roots and plants filled them up, making it a challenge to pull the root mass from the pot for repotting.
I enjoyed reading about your more adventurous plant rhizome though.

Elsie

I remember reading on the Yahoo Sansevieria group of one ambitous Sansevieria grower who potted all of his up in children wading pools in his basement and grew them unbder lights. I don't remember all of the specifics, but I do remember that the plants got really big, and had massive root systems. I believe that the plants weren't divided for a couple of years, but beyond that, remember little of the thread.

Joe 'I read a lot, but I forget a lot, too' DeRosa

I grow mine in 1-3 gal size containers, mine also flower in their little pots. Enven in bonsai pots, 'Gray Lady' 'Lake Sibaya' several others, I also have three flowering at this time, and then they finish I will remove the mother plants and the new growth will continue on thier own and flower next year on the new growth. I have a large collection and they are running all the other plants out of the green house. I start them in the smallest pots that I can pot them into. I have a lovely little S. parva, it is in a hanging basket and it has sent a growth out of the hole that holds the wire. The larger the container the more water it will hold so the plant will have more water longer, so may not be such a good thing.

I live in So. calif. and I keep mine especailly dry all winter, and didn' lose a single one this past year, The variegates do not appreciate being damp all winter, the S. hahnii will rebel, and just turn to mush. So becareful, the size of the pot helps controls how wet/dry the soil will stay. The more humid the air is the less water they will need. I have no humidity here.

I have also observed that my S. conspicua sent up a flower stalk from a rhizome. No leaves at all, so it had nothing to do with maturity, I think it had to do with the light it was getting. Norma

Large flower pots holding wet soil over the winter is the main reason that I have to divide my plants - there is an absolute maximum pot size for each plant I grow. Once I go beyond that pot size, rot will invariably set in.

I do pot my plants in pretty sharply draining soil when they go into teh big pots. So far, no problems. But I do keep my eyes open all winter, and water sparingly.

Joe 'I've rotted some expensive plants over the years' DeRosa

Using a wading pool, I would think they would grow right out of the sides. I use 8" pots and they do fine, they manage to flower on the new growth every year, I would grow them big as well if needed for landscape. Some species do not grow more the 12" or less in height. By big do you mean wide, a large clump? How do you repot when needed, I can't lift more than a 3 gal pot full of plants. Once the young plant has roots it can be on it's own and get the nurishment that it needs, and yes each growth is considerded a new growth according to the books. Some plants only have two leaves to a growth, and other 20. I grow a S. masoniana in a 25 gal container it has broken the container 3 times now, but has never flowered. The leaves have never grown more than 2 ft high, other growers in Europe tell me that theirs grow to 5-6 feet. If I grow mine in shade or low light it will grow that high as well. I have a need for space more than I have the need for them to get so big I can't lift them. I have a darling little S. coccina, that is no more than 4" tall. It is in flower now, I have it in a 2.33" x 4" pot. I also have a S. sp.
from 'Lake Sibaya' that looks like a S. coccina that has three flower raceme coming up at this time. So what is the purpose of growing them big/tall? Norma

Hi everyone!! Since I'm a newbie, I'll keep it very short. I just wanted to thank everyone for their input because I have learned so much in the past few minutes!!! I am a new fan of sans and have 2 little pieces of s. gold flame and a plain green one that may be s. senegambica, and a new one was given to me over the weekend. I'm sorry that I allowed the girl to break apart the pieces and give them to me seperately. :( Anyway, thanks for the input and I'll be sure not to break any of them up from now on!!!!!! Thanks again for the info...~kristine

I cut mine into 6" lengths, and they do just fine. Norma

Since you're on the subject anyway, how does the hardiness of S. trifasciata compare to other Sansevierias (propensity to rot in cold, wet soil)?

Ryan

How do you keep all growth to be upward. My largest plant seems to be fanning out a bit. If it should grow like Joes-to 6 feet, I will really have a space problem. Right now it looks great though-just over 3 feet tall.