I discovered spider mites last season late July, a few weeks before the start of harvest. At the time the plants were big and the mites were impossible to eliminate. My only hope was to slow them down so that new growth outpaced my pruning tick infested branches. By that time it was too late for anti mite oil to work because there were too many of them. Hard water showers every day helped slow them down a lot. This meant spraying the hose directly at the plants at full blast. At this point in the season when the tomatoes are little the anti mite oils might work. I got these mites on my eggplants and cucumbers as well but the tomato plants suffered the most. It was finding them on eggplants last season that led to my discovery of them killing my tomatoes. Here is a link that might be useful: Link to my log entry on mites written last July

Cyann Imontestella said it - your mix was probably OK and many ppl use it without any problem. But there are times when it could have some problems: C&S mix could have too much peat in it. Only way to tell is to check the ingredients list on the bag. Not all manufacturers make it exactly same way. If that is the case, maybe it was staying wet longer than expected. Fungus gnats like moist and organic environment: wet soil, water standing in saucers, lots of organic matter in the mix and also fallen debris from plants. Maybe it was hot & humid in the room. And it takes only 1 plant brought in with some FG, and they will spread around. Same with most of the pests. Mealy bugs could be get rid of by spraying succulents with rubbing alcohol/water mixture (I have used it undiluted without any problems). It is better to spray plants since these buggers like to hide where you can't get to with q tip. Scale dies if you wet it with a q tip moistened in rubbing alcohol. They often stick to stems and the leaves. Or you could spray just as for mealy. While spraying, do not keep plants in strong sunlight, but it is OK as soon as RA dries up (pretty fast). There may not be need to throw plants out if you catch it early. I would only dispose of it if it was really overwhelming. Keep brand new plants (or any infected now) isolated as suggested above. Pick up any fallen-dried pieces of plants. Get rid of any standing water. Make sure all containers have drainage holes. Double check ingredients of C&S mix. Sift or rinse perlite to get rid of smallest particles and dust. You could add some grit to your mix you can get any - maybe25% C&S soil, rest equal amount of grit & sifted perlite. But you don't have to if you have only C&S soil and perlite - if the old mix is staying wet for too long, increase amount of perlite. You can use 60 - 75% of perlite. Using small fan helps a lot = better air circulation. Do you have garden, terrace or balcony? If so, you could keep all plants out there... How do you propagate the succulent leaves? Can you post photo? You can keep babies from the spider plant - leave them attached, or root for new plants if you wish so. I do not grow photos but I believe it is extremely easy to root it even in water (and I am not a fan of rooting plants in water, haha). Maybe wait with propagating bunny ears for a while - as Imontestella suggested :)

Infected branches? They aren't infected. They're fine branches that happen to have bugs on them. The usual approach to aphid-like pests is just to blast them off with some water. But neem or some other insecticide will be effective in the longer term. Wooly aphids usually aren't that damaging. Are these actually doing damage?

Wall color is chosen with all your stuff in mind so post some pics of your spaces for reference please. There are 1000s of colors to choose from I happen to love a soft grayed/ green for a neutral often . From the description of the trim color that color I mentioned could work I think. Maybe Limewash PPG