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Rose Propagation & Exchange

Roseseek, Mutabilis bloomed!

seil zone 6b MI

11 years ago

Hi Kim!

Just thought I'd let you know that three of the cuttings of Mutabilis that you sent me rooted. And one of them has given me a tiny bloom!

I'm so excited!

Thank you!

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Comments (11)

roseseek
11 years ago
Way cool, Sharon! You're welcome! Thanks for sharing the photo. I hope you can nurse it along in your climate. You're going to love this rose. Rub the peduncle, ovary and sepals them smell them and your fingers. It's a sweet, peppery scent. Now, imagine a bazillian of them perfuming the air for many feet around the plant on a warm, moist day. Delicious! Have fun with it! Kim
seil zone 6b MI
Original Author
11 years ago
Thanks for the tip, I'll do that! They'll spend this winter in the little greenhouse with the seedlings so they should be OK. Next spring I'll put them in bigger pots and see how big they get before I decide on putting them in the ground. I may baby them another winter before I try to leave them out though.
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Good morning KM, thanks! We NEEDED that rain, and still need another two or three more like it. You've gotten significantly more this year than So Cal has. You're welcome! Werner is a poly and flowers repeatedly all year here. He is strongly multiflora (as are virtually all roses of his coloring) so chlorosis issues may raise their ugly heads if not circumvented. He's also quite fertile so hips will form from every flower, requiring dead heading. Werner doesn't "climb", but arches or mounds, which may be able to be massaged into the type of shape you have in mind. Pictures can be quite deceiving, which is why I wanted to make sure you had an idea how large SJ could get. Mostly she's thornless, but as with many which share the trait, occasionally wood is formed which demonstrates the abilty to be prickly. Her sisters have, so far, not demonstrated that ability, oddly enough. A number of my seedlings are listed on HMF under my Breeder Page. They have to have "hung around" for a long time or have demonstrated something amazing (at least to me!) about themselves before I list them there. Mr. Moore has a Breeder Page there, too. To access the Breeder Pages, click on the Breeder tab on the left menu, then enter the last name of the person you seek and search. Mr. Moore created a number of roses which were very low prickle count to prickle free. One of the benefits of using Little Darling is how easily she reduced or eliminated the prickle load. Her daughter, 1-72-1, was one of his favorite breeders and threw many quite smooth 'babies'. Because he wanted people to pick up and handle his minis, he came to appreciate the lack of prickles. It is a trait I've always appreciated and commented on frequently we he would walk me through the breeding houses. It appeared because of my "harping on" smooth canes, he came to appreciate it more. While I've thankfully not had infections due to prickles, I have closely resembled special effects from gore-horror films on many occasions and it isn't 'fun'. Lack of prickles is a trait I strive for and value in seedlings. Wouldn't it be wonderful to offer a line of totally prickle free roses so people with small children, or those who resist roses because of the prickles could comfortably, safely enjoy them? It's the wrong color for your request, but Mr. Moore's Softee may work for what you want. He never promoted this rose because he felt it rather too difficult to produce in quantity. It's a very nice little rose, but ease of propagation was one of his prime goals, and its being less than easy to root he considered a "failure". It is thornless (completely!), flowers incessantly, isn't really "climbing" but builds into a soft, leafy mound of a plant with fairly elongated canes. You could probably shear it as you would a myrtle or other denser, soft shrub, to keep it as you want it. If you're feeling adventurous, Werner should root fairly easily...Kim Here is a link that might be useful: Softee
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Hi Bonnie, Long Ago is working on their site, so the page being down isn't surprising. I know she's like Burling in that she's a one person operation. You can imagine trying to take care of hundreds to thousands of plants; propagate them all; handle all the "chief cook and bottle washer" duties for the business and household, etc., AND mess around with a web site. It will get there. I don't know who will have stock ready first. Remember Long Ago is on the east coast and doesn't ship west of the Rockies. Burling is less than three hours from you. Actually, I prefer receiving young plants during weather as we're "suffering" right now. Replanted in a larger pot, in good soil, placed in filtered sun and kept well fed and watered, most will grow like mad with this heat. It sets the stage for the perfect opportunity to push them by keeping them disbudded. I'm impatient when it comes to pushing plants. It drives me crazier for them to just SIT there, appearing to do nothing. Kim
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Photos are in the gallery in case you don't check it regularly. Thread is entitled guess what followed me home. Teri
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Just some fertilizer info to help with the confusion: You might find the formulation 12-4-8, but 12-6-8 is one I've never seen. I'm not saying it's not available SOMEWHERE, but it's not readily available ....... and it's not a high-K (potassium) fertilizer. A high potassium fertilizer for Hibiscus would be something like 12-4-18 or 9-3-12. The NPK % 14-14-14 is only one of the hundreds of the CRF fertilizers offered by Osmocote, and 1:1:1 ratio fertilizers like 14-14-14 are not well suited to hibiscus in containers because you can only supply adequate amounts of N or K by significantly over-supplying P, and hibs rebel at P excesses. There is no "right" fertilizer for Hibiscus growing in the ground unless its formulation is determined by the results of a soil test and the testing facility knows you'll be growing hibiscus. W/o having your soil tested, whatever you use as fertilizer is essentially a shot in the dark. Generally though, in a very high % of the US, it's best to use phosphorous-free fertilizers that are high in K (potassium) for hibiscus growing in the landscape as opposed to pots. Al
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roseseek
11 years ago
I hope you can get it to flower next year when you're pollinating. It will set seed, but not many and they are hit and miss to germinate. Usually, it likes setting by itself, so use it for pollen. The pollen is fertile and worth exploring. I have a single, pink (what else? LOL!) seedling out front from Marie Pavie X Mutabilis. Nice foliage and it is finally starting to throw larger, open clusters of the medium pink, single flowers. Should be interesting! Kim
TNY78
11 years ago
Great Seil! I've heard that its hard to root :) its a really great rose and Hardy here...you'll really love it!

Tammy
seil zone 6b MI
Original Author
11 years ago
Thanks, Tammy! Kim sent me a bunch of cuttings and I stuck quite a few and gave the rest to rose friends. Of the ones I stuck only these three rooted. It's going to be an experiment for me because I'm not sure it will winter here but I'm hoping!
seil zone 6b MI
Original Author
11 years ago
Yippee! Mutabilis has another bud!!!
roseseek
11 years ago
Great! I hope you can maintain it to a large plant. Once you've witnessed hundreds to thousands of those flowers at once, you'll keep coming back for more! There are so many tints and shades available all at one time, it really does look like a huge bush full of various butterflies. Kim
roseseek
11 years ago
Sharon, you might also like Louis Lens' Apricot Bells and Patricia Beucher, both crosses of Agalia X Mutabilis. Both are rated hardy to 6b. Plaisantarie is a sister of theirs, but I don't grow that one. I do have the first two, if you'd like cuttings... Kim

Apricot Bells

http://www.helpmefind.com/gardening/l.php?l=2.32525

Here is a link that might be useful: Patricia Beucher
maternut
11 years ago
I love my Mutabilis, never had a cutting to root. Any advice, tried spring and fall. Please help.
seil zone 6b MI
Original Author
11 years ago
Maternut, I just did my usual process. I do have to say that I stuck about 10 or 12 and only 3 rooted. I use seed starter soil in a clear plastic cup with holes in the bottom, scrap the sides of the cutting a little with a sharp knife to expose the white pith, dip the cuttings in rooting hormone, stick a pencil in the soil and put the cutting in and firm up the soil around it and put it out in the sun. Then it's just a matter of keeping the soil constantly damp but not soggy and waiting. In about 6 weeks I start to check for roots inside the cup. That's why I like the clear cups, you can see the roots! Once I can see that there is a good looking root system in the cup I pot them up into 1 gallon pots. It doesn't work all the time but it's been the most successful method I've tried. I only do mine outside so I have to do them early in the season, June is best but I have done some in early July. Otherwise they're not big enough by the end of the season to winter even in the little greenhouse. And I never try to grow roses inside the house. Well, I do start my seeds inside in January in trays but they go out by April because I'll kill them in the house for sure.
maternut
11 years ago
Thanks Seil I do have a green house, will try some this fall , if no luck will try in the spring.

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