I tried rooting some muscadine cuttings last year, and only had one out of around 20-30 cuttings take. In contrast, for grape vines, all I have to do is stick them in a deep pot, two nodes deep, and they root. Are the cuttings you're trying to root dormant or in an active growing phase? Lon Rombough, in his book "The Grape Grower", describes a muscadine rooting technique of taking green cuttings from a vigorous growing shoot on a vine. They are taken early, no later than bloom time. Cuttings are around 6" long with 2-3 nodes. Only the top leaf is left attached, (leafless cuttings don't root) and it is cut in half to reduce transpiration. Cuttings are dipped in a rooting hormone, planted in a mixture of three parts perlite and one part peat, in a mist bench with bottom heat. If a mist bench isn't available, they can be misted by hand several times a day. The cuttings are placed in a bright shady area- no full sun He advises against using a plastic covering, but says the cuttings can also be placed in a black one gallon pot, bottom heat, and covered with a plastic bag propped up with sticks, as long as the bag doesn't touch the leaves. If you scroll halfway down the page of the link below, you will see this described in great detail, with pictures. Our local hydroponics store sells rockwool cubes for rooting difficult cuttings, and I've had varied results with those, using other kinds of cuttings. Kiwinut's suggestion of grafting a few of the cuttings on established vines and layering the vines later is a great one. Good luck with it. Here is a link that might be useful: Green (softwood) cuttings

Checkout Snapper and Ariens. Snappers Easy Speed line seems to have been around for a few decades. And their MSRP price on their website for their bottom of the line model is cheaper than actual sale prices for many of the top of the line models at big retailers. And seem to be much higher old school heavy duty quality.

Well, Sheryl, when we're reading online like this, it's difficult to know who the "clown" really is. I have one neighbor who causes me a lot of difficulty with overgrown oleanders and trash trees (that #$%#^%*$ 'tree of heaven'!) and despite the fact that's she's a real prickly pear, I still approach and tell her what I need to solve the problem on my side of the fence. Then, there's the truly evil b*****d who I never speak to unless it's to tell him where to go. I can't get any relief from his code violations unless I invoke help from the city. Even then, I make sure he knows I'm the one behind the complaint. However, I did not come to this point before exhausting all other approaches.

Thank you for your thoughts on the chairs so far. Here is an update: First off, I should confirm that I am from the UK... so I'm guessing that these chairs are too. Secondly, my best guess is that they come from a place in England called "High Wycombe" and were made by William Bartlett and his company. Why do I think this? On closer examination I noticed that every chair has similar marking on its underside, including the image of an archer and the name 'strongbow' (see image below). All four chairs also have the phrase "REGD" stamped on them (the 'D'is superscripted) and two chairs also have numbers stamped on them (519950) and stamped initials 'WJE'. Googling Strongbow and furniture I came across the name William Bartlett. Indeed a search to one site revealed a logo which seemed to be of a very similar shape and stance to the stamp on the chair Web link 1. Also, a search on google maps suggest that the old premises of the company on Grafton Street in High Wycombe also displayed a similar logo Web link 2. A little more searching turned up a document from the High Wycombe council website which suggested that the 'Strongbow range dates at least to 1965 Web link 3. Now, if this is the case then I assume the chairs are reproductions in an arts a craft style and are not original pieces. Anyway. What do you all think? Does this sound plausible to you? Thanks in advance for your thoughts, time and effort.