It does seem odd but I assumed the potted Hibiscus was left by the previous owners since it was on the list of what came with the new home. I was going by the leaf shape and texture (they are more ovate and glossy) plus the way the buds are carried and the appearance of the calyx. I do grow H syriacus in my garden and I am familiar with H rosa-sinensis as a pot plant. So I just said what I thought. But I may be wrong. It will become clear which it is once it blooms. Maybe someone else can comment.

It would be best if you can get the plastic up; I'm still finding some in my yard, and I've never figured out the reason it was there in the first place. If you don't like the schleffera and monkey grass, take them out! It's your house now, and you can grow whatever you want to wherever you want it. The people in the forum for your geographical region can give you the best advice for what will grow best for you. There are probably books about gardening in the south that can help you learn, and I recommend that you get a good overall gardening book, like the one at the link. Reader's Digest used to have a really good one, and you might still be able to find it in a used book store. I'd guess you'd be wise to start with your local library and see what they have, then buy the one that's the most helpful. Good luck with all of it! Here is a link that might be useful: garden book

Welcome! I'm in the suburbs of F Worth. People's soil can vary a lot even in the same area. Sometimes even in the same yard! I have patches of sandy soil in my caliche. Amending and how many trees,walls,how you are facing the sun(microclimates) can make a huge difference in plantings. I copied this from another GW forum. Hope it's helpful!PJ Start with a good soil test for basic nutrient load and soil pH levels. Contact your local office of the Texas A & M USDA Cooperative Extension Service about this and then dig in with these simple soil tests; 1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer you soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.

1. Appears to be another lavender. Rub and sniff for confirmation. 2. Aquilegia vulgaris 3. Astilbe 4. Hebe 5. Hibiscus syriacus 6. Rhododendron Everything except your lavenders and the Hibiscus seem to be suffering from lack of water and I'm guessing your soil doesn't suit the Rhodie. Are you in the South East? Were the pix taken during the hot weather last week?