orchidguy is right. In most cases, pruning paint/sealer is not only useless in fending off unwanted problems, but can prevent a woody plant from doing its own 'healing'. It was once thought that these products kept disease pathogens from entering a wound, but we know, now, that that is not the case. The only times that I would ever recommend that a sealer be used is if the plant in question is susceptible to a particular type of borer insect and it was the time of year for that borer to be active.

That is a beautiful picture of a swale! I needed that for another post a few days ago. What seems to have happened is you lost most of the KBG (Kentucky bluegrass) back at the beginning except for down the middle of the swale. It has managed to come back and is creeping up the sides. Eventually it will completely take over. Here is the deal with KBG, the first year it sleeps, the second year it creeps, the third year it leaps. Next year you will have a gorgeous lawn everywhere that the KBG has extended its reach - and that will be pretty far. If you overseed in the fall, you will start the sleep/creep/leap cycle over again for the new seed, but if you don't, then you must rely on the KBG you have creeping to fill the entire yard. That can easily happen if you water deeply/infrequently and mow relatively high, and fertilize as much as you can afford. SBM (common acronym for soybean meal) is excellent. Use as much as you can afford as often as you can afford it (this IS your only hobby, right??). There are people just a little north of you who use several hundred pounds of SBM per 1,000 square feet per year (this IS their only hobby). The organic matter that really matters in the soil is the microbes. Your basic soil sounds pretty hostile but by watering deeply and fertilizing routinely, the deep roots will provide homes and food for the microbes. Grass is one of those plants that sheds its roots all the time. As old roots get replaced, they have to decompose. That decomposition is what the microbes do. Thus by growing roots you are increasing the organic matter in the soil. If you do aerate, watch for those rocks. When you hit one the aerator will buck up in the air. After you aerate, water very deeply. I would go for 3 hours per zone or until you get runoff, which ever comes first. Have you read the Organic Lawn Care FAQ? It is on the Organic Gardening forum here or elsewhere on lawn forums around the web.

Kukini, Pictures and colors are hard to identify depending on the lighting, time of day, how long the flowers have been opened etc... But I will proceed to take a guess and then you can research for yourself if it matches or not. The first and second picture looks like Guillot's Sunset. I have one that in the beginning opens up bright reddish/ rainbow and then fades to what yours looks like.. Does it have a sweet frangipani/jasmine/plumeria smell? Like that of Celadine... The last two flowers you have are strikingly beautiful but I don't have those so I can't help there. Remember there are over 800 Plumerias circulating: some are registered/named, some unknown, some are seedlings not registered, etc... It's really hard to identify these flowers/trees with the little information out there. These trees could have come from Hawaii, Mexico, Caribbean, Malaysia, Thailand, Philippines, Australia, and the Mayans. I'm sure I left out many more locations but it's hard to keep up with the rare ones out there. Suzy

Removing Paint from Siding. There are two tools that, in our experience, are very good at taking paint off siding, and a lot better than the traditional heat and scrape, or scrape and sand methods.. 1. Silent Paint Remover is one. This tool is a GIANT STEP above heat guns and the dangers they cause. The other is 2. Paint Shaver. This is a mechanical, high speed stripper that uses replaceable carbide blades. Which one we use depends on the paint to be removed. Silent Paint Remover is slower, but does a very neat job requiring very little sanding. Paint Shaver is faster, but takes a bit of practice to remove the paint without putting a lot of crescent-shaped divots in your siding that require a lot of sanding out. One mistake to guard against using this tool is setting the depth adjustment for too-aggressive a cut. You don't need to remove all the paint, just the loose paint, so don't try to get down to bare wood in one pass. When you are removing paint, you hope the original painter did a lousy job so it will come off easily. If he was good at his job, it's going to come off hard no matter what tool you use. Keep in mind that the EPA lead abatement rules govern the safe removal of any exterior lead paint. As a homeowner, they may not apply to you, but follow them anyway for everyone's safety. Both of these tools are commonly available at a deep discount over retail from e-Bay and Graig's list. We have used and cannot recommend the Metabo or Wagner machines. They don't work nearly as well as the suggested machines. Repairing Plaster To repair cracked or falling-off true plaster you need to reattach it to the wood or metal lath underneath. The traditional way is with screws and plaster washers. These usually extend proud of the wall, making them difficult to conceal except with thick coats of patching plaster. The better way is to glue the plaster to the lath. There is a commercial kit to do this called Plaster Magic which we like, but which we also think is pretty expensive. We just use our own, locally available materials, that work just as well and are a lot less expensive. Here's what to do: 1. Using a concrete bit, drill about 3/8" holes in the plaster until you hit the lath -- do not drill through the lath. You will feel it when you reach the lath. You will want to drill about 1" on both sides of any crack, putting a hole about every 4-6" along the crack. Its a judgment call. Drill as many holes as you think you will need. If in doubt, more is usually better. For large loose areas, drill about every 4"-6" in the field and every 4" around the perimeter of the loose plaster area. Sometimes you will hit the gaps between lath strips. Don't worry about it. Just move about 1" away and drill again. 2. With your trusty shop vac, suck the plaster dust out of each hole. This is important, plaster dust interferes with the adhesive. 3. Using your caulk gun and a good construction adhesive (we like Power Grab, but any quality adhesive should work. In a pinch, we have used most of them at one time or another and none have failed.) squirt a good glob of adhesive into each hole. This will probably be messy, so have some mineral spirits and rags around to cleanup any drip-out. 4. Make a bunch of 4" square wood washers. You can make them out of job scrap. We use 1/2" or 3/4" OSB most of the time just because it happens to be around. Drill a hole in the center of each washer - 3/16" or 1/4" ought to do it. 5. Line the washers up with the holes you drilled earlier and, using a drywall screw, attach the washer to the wood lath beneath the plaster. You don't need to screw into every hole, about every 4-6 holes is a good rule of thumb. What you want to do is put even pressure over the loose plaster area and draw it back to the lath. This will allow the adhesive you just applied to bond the lath tightly to the plaster once again. As you tighten the screw, you will feel the plaster draw in. DO NOT try to sink the screws all the way in one go. Draw them in gradually moving from screw to screw. This lessens the risk of cracking the plaster further. When all the screws are sunk, you are done until tomorrow. Go have a beer. 6. After 24 hours, remove the screws, put them back in the box (they can be reused) and throw the washers away. The plaster is now stuck solidly to the lath once again. There are no screws or washers in the wall - so finishing the plaster is much simplified, and this fix is strong. The adhesive sticks like, well, like glue. 7. Using patching plaster, a setting joint compound, or even regular joint compound, patch the screw holes, cracks and fill in any missing plaster. The purists will tell you that joint compound has a different texture than real plaster and is softer, so you should not use it. It does have a different texture and is softer, but so what? The paint will hide any differences. 8. We recommend against paper tape on cracks. What we use is nylon screening -- the stuff in screen doors. buy a role from your hardware store and cut it into 6" strips while it is still rolled up -- its easy to cut with normal shop shears or even your utility knife. Use this in place of nylon mesh tape -- it works better. We embed it in a thin coat of joint compound, then, when the first coat of mud has set, mud over it. Its wider footprint is better at stabilizing cracks than narrow nylon mesh tape. In fact, we have never had a repair fail using this method. Removing Layers of Paint from Interior Trim Definitely use a commercial stripping service if you have one in your area. At $1.00 - $2.00 per linear foot, the price is well worth not having to deal with the mess of stripping in place or on saw horses in your garage. After stripping be sure to sand with a fine sandpaper to remove the fuzzing that stripping causes. Good luck.