In the spring of 2012, I attempted to graft a Pear scion onto my apple tree using Winter Banana Apple as an inter stem. (All of he grafting i do is "Whip and Tongue" grafts wrapped in grafting tape. I then coat the wrapped union with grafting wax) The parent branch was a Winesap Apple branch with a grafted Winter Banana Apple scion from a few years before. (I actually have two of these paired branches.) I then attempted to graft two "Kieffer" Pear scions onto my two Winter Banana Apple inter stems. The "Kieffer" Pear scions started to grow, but died a few weeks later. This spring (2014) I attempted to graft this Apple / Pear union again using the same Winter Banana Apple inter stems. I had just enough branch on my Winter Banana branches to try this experiment one more time. This time around, I used "Sunrise Pear" scionwood. The grafting was a screaming success! (I had enough "Sunrise Pear" scionwood to graft two branches onto my apple tree, and two more onto an ornamental pear. All four pear grafts were a success!) I have no idea why this experiment failed in 2012 and was a success in 2014. I do not know if it had to do with the pear variety used, or if it had to do with environmental circumstances. I will re-post in 2015 with an update. There are a few different treads on this subject so I will be re-posting on those threats also. Below are pictures taken on 07/27/2014.

We have about a half dozen pear trees scattered around the property ranging in age from 10 years to 2. All of them with a single exception give me nothing but long thin growth that then flops over. I do not think I am over fertilizing. The trees are in full sun. I have always treated them more or less the same as the apple and cherry we have put in and those behave quite well. On the oldest, a bartlet on OFXH 87 I have tried for a couple years to cut it back by half of new growth mid summer in an effort to stiffin it up....no luck. Same old story I get rapid thin extension (which is well leafed not sparse) and then it flops over, tries to grow up more, flops again producing branching more remincent of a weeping crab than a pear. Now the 3 that went in last year (on seedling rootstock) are showing the same behavior. The only exception is a tree 5 year old on seedling to which I have grafted several varieties....it grows vigorously and with adequate diameter to support the growth well. I assume I am missing something basic. Ant thoughts?

Regarding planting of bare-rooted stock in general the bare-rooting kills most of the fine roots. The top is stunted the first growing season after planting because of this. It should not be unhealthy, just not grow nearly as far that year than it usually would. You can often see how long ago comparatively recently planted stock was transplanted by looking to see where there was a year of much shorter growth than before or since. (This includes balled in burlap stock, which usually also loses most of its fine feeder roots when dug). Growth of new roots after planting in spring is initiated in response to hormones sent down to the cut root ends from the opening, no longer dormant foliage buds formed the previous fall at the branch tips. If the branches are all cut back at planting these buds aren't there to get the new roots going. This also results in a an undesirable hedge-like re-growth of branches from the cut branch tips. Growth of new roots in spring is fueled by energy stored in stems over the winter. The more top is present when new roots appear in spring, the more energy is available for root growth. Existing roots elongate markedly in fall, after the overwintering buds at the stem ends have formed and matured. Again, this root growth is sparked by hormones sent down from these buds. This fall root explosion is the greatest amount of root growth at one time of the whole year, 60% of the annual total. The rest of the time other parts of the plant receive priority - or the plant is dormant. Healthy stock recovers enough of the roots the first fall after planting to resume a normal rate of top growth the second spring after planting. Growth of the top in spring is based on energy stored in the stems and roots. Trees and shrubs are integrated systems like us. Reduction or removal of one part impacts the rest of the plant. Removing additional tissue, as in cutting the top back to compensate for root loss at transplanting and supposedly restore balance instead merely decreases the plants ability to respond. It is no more beneficial than cutting off a leg to make up for a lost arm.

My bet is 90% as bad sucker growth if planted perfectly. It just seems to be the nature of the beast. What you should do? I dunno. Packing dirt around them would be a temptation. Many trees live like this a long time in nature near streams and lakes. Replant? Probably not. I have a Bradford type from the previous owners. If several of my larger trees had not required removal it would be gone now. Guess I am shell/chainsaw shocked lol. I just can't kill another! Now that said, my "right" to complain when my neighbor plants bamboo or zoysia near my fescue has been limited by my own decision to keep this invasive stinky mess until the snow or wind removes its blight from my zip code. damn Post Tree Removal Disorder lol.