Best chainsaw for pruning the top of apple trees?

17 years ago

I have several chainsaws that I use to cut firewood on the ground. I have lots of apple tress that I prune with a ladder, hand saw and a pole pruner. I'm looking for advice on the best small (14" maybe?) chainsaw that I can use to get the suckers and large branches from the tops of the trees. I'm a woman who weighs about 150 (depending on the year) and want something fairly lightweight and easy to start. My other saws are Stihl and was reading about the top handle models but think after using the regular rear handles ones for so long, I might not be comfortable with one of those. I was looking at the MS 200 made by Stihl. Any advice would be helpful.

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gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)

17 years ago

My only comment is that I'd reconsider the advisibility of using a chainsaw for this purpose. I think it is a bit of overkill for most apple trees (we grow a LOT of apples in WA state and even commercial orchardists prune with the traditional tools). Have you investigated some of the better pole pruners that have attached saw blades? Pretty easy to use, will cut large diameter branches with ease and the safety factor is enormous compared with a power tool.

I once attended an excellent pruning seminar sponsored by the local chapter of the ISA and one statement that remains in my mind is that if it requires a ladder AND a chainsaw, a professional arborist should be doing the job.

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Comments (9)

Embothrium
17 years ago
I think I've seen a product here that was a chain saw on a pole. Of course, if you are having to mow off apple trees like this you aren't pruning them right anyway. Another term for it is "topping". As with topping of other trees, it's detrimental to the tree and has to be re-done over and over - until the tree weakens and dies. Radically topped apple trees are very common here, many have severe decay problems in their main branches.
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what he said ... but lets start with what your goal is with this tree ... my first goal.. is usually being able to walk under a tree.. without poking an eye out ...[actually its mowing at speed on the rider] if you want that.. then you take off the lowest two or so branches ... and start training the tree up ... the other side of the coin.. is that most orchards.. train their trees down [and bare in the middle].. to favor harvest ... but they end up with really.. really ugly trees ... so to start.. define where you want to go ... i grow some fruit.. mainly to say i can... i am not going to be spraying them the requisite 4 to 6 times a year.. to get grocery store perfect fruit .... so i really dont care if the fruit can be easily picked ... so up they go ... and i usually get just enough ugly fruit.. to make the kids happy ... lol.. blotchy apples still make great pie .... as brandon noted ... fruit peeps do it much different than tree peeps... and we will miss you if you end up over there... lol ... ken ps: i am using tree rules... for my eyes.. not fruit rules... if you didnt figure that out ...
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Beesneeds: I have 11 apple trees on various rootstocks. I prune with Felco pruners, loppers and a pruning saw. I also use a stepladder. I try and keep my older and larger trees no taller than 15' as I cannot pick ,spray or prune anything taller than that with the equipment I have. I feel your pain as I had one very wide apple tree that is difficult on one side to even work my ladder into. I ended up just cutting out a few large limbs to make this happen. I figured that was the best way as what use are apples that I cannot get to and pick when they are ripe (unless you are letting them drop and picking up the windfalls for harvest). Saw away is my advice and open up the tree a bit. Better light penetration will give you apples with better skin color and better flavor. Also a more open canopy promotes better air flow so the fruit/foliage will dry off quicker so hopefully less prone to scab, mildew, sooty blotch ect. IF you have not pruned much the past few years, I would advice not removing LOTS of wood the first year. Pruning old trees too heavily can result in a lot of water sprout formation. Best to remove lots of wood over a period of several years instead of all at once. I often summer prune out water sprouts when I see them instead of letting them go and doing it during the dormant season.
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Whoever pruned that tree before had no idea about pruning an apple tree. First of all...you must realize that apples bear fruit on spurs of old wood (over 3 years old or so). Your tree was butchered...and all the top growth was taken off, and only the big main branches remained (see how your large main branches quickly turn to young whip type branches?). That is the point where someone lopped off the top of the tree. No worries...you can recover. Thin those whip branches (young)...eliminating 3 out of 4 branches. Prune off the ends (last 6") of the remaining whip branches. This will force outward growth. It will result in good fruit production in 2-3 years. Study the difference between "heading cuts" and "thinning cuts". goodluck
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Well, much to my surprise, some of the grafts that I put on last year grew fruit spurs, and flowered this spring. Some others grew longer, with no spurs. Maybe those were what the buds were intended for all along, and they just now came out. Anyways, a few flowers on last year's grafts is interesting. This year's grafts have started to really take off. I think I did a much better job of it this year than last. I have a few more scions on the way, so I hope to get those on this weekend, and harvest a few apples in a few years. This winter, I'll try to bring this tree back down to size. BTW - it must've overproduced year before last, then been stunted last year. This year, it is totally covered in flowers. If those turn to apples, I'll have to do a lot of thinning. Fun stuff - thanks for the help everyone.
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barrie2m_(6a, central PA)
17 years ago
It appears evident that you have experience in using chainsaws and if you have an older orchard as I do a chainsaw is an absolute necessity, even if you can afford hydraulic powered pruners. I sometimes prune from a tractor fender or ladder but admit that you should keep you feet on the ground.

Use your larger saws for larger branches but I prefer the Stihl 019T for reachable branch pruning. It has a narrow chain and can be held by top or side. Mine is 10 years old and so you may find comperable newer models.

For taller branches and topping Stihl has a really nice extending pole pruner to reach up to 18 feet. It may be tiring to use it so my suggestion is to rent one for a weekend to see if you want to spend the money on one. For the amount of pruning I do I can't imagine having a sizable orchard without one.

The bigger mistake is to not prune enough. A chainsaw can allow you to make more accurate cuts that will heal over better. And while you are cutting you have a tool for sawing removed branches into firewood to the extent possible. Just remember that you are working with a dangerous powertool and use care.
Steven Jackson
8 years ago
you can read guides and reviews here:

chainsawguides.com
N.W.Ohioz5
8 years ago
This is what you need.

Milwaukee 2620-21 18-Volt Sawzall Kit with 1 Battery
Sherwood Botsford (z3, Alberta)
8 years ago
The sawsall is a good way to go, much easier to control than a chainsaw on a ladder. There are hydraulic/pneumatic/electric pruners. One I saw had a 1.5" capactity. These can be used 1 handed
Nancy Brown
6 years ago
I love Sun Joe. It works so well I got my trees done right quick YA. It makes this trimming mow easy. Only used it once so far but it worked great in trimming an apple tree. Will report back after using it a few more times but for now, it was well worth the low price.

PROS:-

1. Strong Body Materials

2. Light Weight

3. Ergonomic Design

4. Long Pole

5. Clear Electric Powered

6. Budget Friendly

7. Corrosion Resistant

8. Manufacturer’s Warranty

More details about the best chainsaw's overview, specification, Features, Pros and Cons click the link Best Pole/Chainsaw In 2018
ssewalk1
6 years ago
The Remington unit is the best unit as far as specification , Sun joe is also a good unit , pricing would be the deciding factor !
HU-891877579
3 years ago
Taka a Look at the Dewalt Pole Chain Saw, 20V, LI Battery operated, can reach, easily, 10+ ft., plenty of power, saw has built-in chain oil reservoir, much safer than a standard chain saw+ladder, reasonably light in weight, as you stand on the ground. It probably can cut a 3-4" thick branch easily. Costs about $199.00 on Amazon. IF BUYING THIS TYPE OF CHAIN SAW, BE SURE IT COMES WITH BATTERY & CHARGER... Pole chains easily handle most tree cutting issues around the average home garden, or smaller hillside home.

Best chainsaw for pruning the top of apple trees?

gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)

Comments (9)

Embothrium

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