Professional Landscaper pricing vs. wholesale for plant material
scoutjr
15 years ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (11)
scoutjr
15 years agoRelated Discussions
Landscape designer's plant selections, Pygmy Barberry
Comments (12)I just hate it when people post only to have a poke at someone, stirring the pot can be productive if some spice is added but terry what are you adding? As a designer (not landscape) I would not be amused if someone paid me $160 for a design (I could stop there) and then asked a guy walking down the street what he thought about one item in it for future feedback rather than feedback to me directly. gardengal48 said it like that which is a reasonable response from a professional designer, if mary didn't value ($160 is not much value)the "design" she should have asked the guy walking down the street in the first place. I have a look at this forum occasionally precisely because I can't get this kind of talk at the same price as I pay the guy walking down the street I can take it or leave it but some these people do this for a living so it has some worth. laag knows some stuff and when he says it is the berries of this plant that the birds eat and sh*t elsewhere that causes the problem with the plant in question can you cut the berries off or shoot the birds?...See Moregardening vs landscaping
Comments (56)chuckle... I'm hoping that everyone benefited from the responses as much as I, having found them to be quite illuminating. Susan touches in on an important aspect of the ascribed relationship with a space that shifts perception from landscape to the personalization to garden. I can appreciate that and wish to think on it for a while. INKcognito as always, summates intent superbly, yes, I find the wording inadequate. As most people have a different perception of the words 'japanese gardening' and the understanding to 'most' people seems to be a genre of stylistic ritualistic placement. this affects many levels of people and circumstances. By shallow example, most clients would not engage a Japanese Gardener to build a maze garden, or a flower garden, thinking that the maze and flower borderis not in the repertoire of the Japanese Gardener, by what is commonly seen and understood. Similarily, when a client asks for maintenance, ie: tree pruning to be done, and you mention that you are a Japanese gardener, they immediately fear that their trees will be bonsaied to the extreme, rather than tailored to their needs. The term 'Japanese', is superfluous to the term garden. If-since Japanese gardens are pan-cultural, then the methods apply to all cultures, therefore the Japanese can be dropped. This isn't a question of nomenclature that one is ashamed of considering I'd have to change my occupation on my passport, etc. and I do use the term Japanese Gardener. But people in general are ascribing and reinventing new terms for which the old sufficed adequately... or did they? The UK has Fusion gardens, in which Japanese techniques are being employed in the way in which they should be. By technical definition, they are Japanese gardens. Roth wishes to use Sukiya Style (Living), perhaps for a Period genre (? I'm not sure and do not wish to put words in mouths when not understanding the intent. N. America wishes to use Japanese Style gardens or Japanese Inspired gardens. i was hoping for an explanation of basis for garden vs landscaping... then rightly the Japanese additon, if there is one. I simply wished to understand how people see landscape or garden, as ?what?? to each other, related, defined... whatever, to eventually apply this to the Japanese garden, since with everyone inventing and describing conceptual needs, How does one explain to someone what one does as a Japanese Gardener? A decision is made long before one can explain that gardeners are capable of design, maintenance (returning to what was, over and over) or development.. and as noted above, maintain differs from develop. - and the trouble begins again... seems to be all in the marketing and the length of a burning match. thanks for the illuminating insights... edzard...See MoreBeing able to purchase plants wholesale
Comments (47)Farmers markets are a good research tool. Watch what people look at, which tags they read. Keep a good count of what you sell. FMs are a pain. If you rent, say, 4 tables 8' x 2.5 feet, then you can get 12 flats per table. You can have 48 flats out at a time. Bring twice that many. This will require some form of layering setup for hauling. You can't get full retail. At an FM you have to offer one of: * stuff you can't get elsewhere. * much better quality than elsewhere * much better prices than eslewhere. When we were trying to do trees at an FM we found that no one wanted little trees. We found that all day's work sold $100-$200 worth of product. Still worth it to see th interest. The bedding plants beside us did really well. They brought 2 SUVs rigged with plywood shelves to haul their plants. Came to two markets in our area every week, and were making a sale every few minutes, usually $20-$40. Competing with the big box stores is tough. They are buying by the semi-load from outfits that are producing in multi-acre greenhouses. So try as much as possible not to go head to head. If you sell tomato plants, sell heirloom varieties, or siberian varieties that do well in the cold. Sell lilies that you forced 6 weeks early, or potfulls of daffodils of weird colours. Where you have to sell things that aren't in bloom yet, try to have a few that you started early enough to be in bloom duirng the bedding plant planting season. Tag them not for sale until last day at the market, but put them where people can see what the younger ones will look like in a few weeks. Doing this for a full set is nice but you may have to start them when it is too expensive to heat your greenhouse. FMs are also an opportunity to let people know about your nursery. One of our long term best local nurseries is both a wholesale and a retail operation. This is a win, as it means they can move people from retail during slack times of the day. Allows them to give decent shifts to people, and long term work for about half of them. (Spring thorugh fall.) They don't go head to head with the box stores, but instead sell to other small nurseries with an outstanding selection. Don't trash your leftovers. Instead use them to make baskets. Labour is the big problem with the hort trade in general. Pay 10-20% over minimum wage so you are a sought after employer. Change it up a lot so people aren't spending two weeks at 40 hours a week transplanting pansies. The more they know, the more useful they are in a crunch. They will also take pride in what they know. Spend half your day working with your people. Tell them when they do a good job. Take them aside to tell them when they screw up. Corrections should be of the form "This is a problem. This is why it's a problem. This is how it should be done. Ok?" Criticism should be directed at the task, not the person. If it's the start of something new, I will often use a line like, "I screwed up. I didn't make myself clear." Young people especially do well form example. I like hiring young people. I can hire a bunch that work afternoons only, or mornings only, and have the other part of the day for tasks I can't easily delegate. Often it will take me a couple hours to get everything ready to have 4 people work all afternoon. I fire people for only a few reasons: A: chronically not showing up when they said they would. (I hire a lot of high school kids after school, so I have to be flexible about basketball, homework, prom prep.) B: chronically failing to follow directions. C: lying to me, trying to hide what they did....See MoreNot happy with professionally planted shrubs!
Comments (21)>When the plant is ready to grow and develop its root system< Transplants that aren't in such poor condition or circumstances that they are unable to produce a normal level of growth will generate new roots the first spring after planting, continue with a comparatively small amount of root growth the first summer after planting, and have a major push of root extension (60% of the annual total) the first fall after planting. With winter hardy stock in suitable climates perfectly timed plantings will occur right before the fall root rush, resulting in immediate substantial engagement of the new site. One year, therefore, is way too long for roots to have not grown through wrappings - and healthy plants definitely do not pause their root growth for a year after planting. While shopping for trees at my favorite nursery, we recently overheard another customer ask a staff person about installing her newly purchased B&B tree. “When I plant my tree I should take off the burlap and twine, right?” she asked. “Oh no,” exclaimed the sta ffer. “You don’t want to disturb the root ball. Just peel the burlap back from the trunk and leave the rest intact. Otherwise, the root ball will collapse and the tree will die.” At first glance, this appears to be reasonable advi ce. Balled and burlapped, or B&B trees, are much heavier than containerized plants and one can visua lize the root ball collapsing and crushing the root system. The weight of the root ball also helps stab ilize the tree and prevent tilting or falling. Finally, the root ball soil contains beneficial microbes and other soil organisms that can help ease transplant shock to the root system. With these benefits in mind, why would you consider doing anything differently? https://puyallup.wsu.edu/wp-content/uploads/sites/403/2015/03/bb-root-balls.pdf...See Morelaag
15 years agoinkognito
15 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
15 years agoplantman314
15 years agosamiamvt
15 years agolaag
15 years agolittlegatorfarm
7 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
7 years agoRevolutionary Gardens
7 years ago
Related Stories
WORKING WITH PROS6 Reasons to Hire a Home Design Professional
Doing a construction project without an architect, a designer or a design-build pro can be a missed opportunity
Full StoryGARDENING AND LANDSCAPINGPool-Friendly Patio Materials
Get a pool patio to match your style at a price that doesn't leave you high and dry
Full StoryPATIOSYour Guide to 10 Popular Landscape Paving Materials
To choose the best paving for your landscape, look at climate, cost and context
Full StoryLANDSCAPE DESIGNHow to Pick the Right Paving and Decking Material
Once you’ve got the walls or fences of your garden figured out, it’s time to consider the ground surface or floors
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDES8 Materials for Raised Garden Beds
Get the dirt on classic and new options for raised vegetable and plant beds, to get the most from your year-round garden
Full StoryARTLet's Put a Price on Art: Your Guide to Art Costs and Buying
We paint you a picture of what affects an artwork's price — plus a little-known way to take home what you love when it's beyond your budget
Full StoryKITCHEN DESIGN16 Practical Ideas to Borrow From Professional Kitchens
Restaurant kitchens are designed to function efficiently and safely. Why not adopt some of their tricks in your own home?
Full StoryLANDSCAPE DESIGNGet an Edge: The Best Border Material for Your Garden
Do you want garden edging made of stone, concrete, metal or wood? Here are things to consider when choosing
Full StoryGARDENING AND LANDSCAPINGChoosing a Deck: Plastic or Wood?
Get the pros and cons of wood, plastic, composite and more decking materials, plus a basic price comparison
Full StoryPATIOSPatio Details: Simple Materials Make for a Sophisticated Space
Low water bills and minimal maintenance are just part of the beauty of this handcrafted backyard deck and patio
Full StorySponsored
laag