Hi, he posts a lot of the winter sowing forum, has been busy with his hoophouse.

Last post I can find from him is Feb 14, 2010. He posted some pictures of his hoophouse and has lots of seedlings he's going to try to plant but it may be too early.

I pinged him on the winter sowing forum directing him to my question on the longer thread about the cloning machine on this forum as I have some questions, too, now that I'm about ready to start setting a smaller one up.

Sorry I can't answer your questions, but I'll take a stab at them. The roots can't be allowed to dry out, and the bubbler probably agitates the water to generate more mist, may have other benefits.

I saw a thread where somebody added a bubbler and finally got a clematis to root (quite awhile ago and may have been on the rose propagation & exchange forum). I tried the same with my clematis cutting and failed (bought a bubbler/bubble stone), but didn't use any rooting hormone (all I have is powder and didn't know how that would work with water surrounding the bottom of the cutting in the water in that method).

But I have no idea about the depth of the water or chamber.

Normally when you root cuttings, it is under grow lights or shade outdoors. Even though they don't have leaves, at some point they will try to leaf out and need light.

If you put a dark cover over it, it might not be good, not saying I know for sure because I don't.

But if that is the only covering you can rig up, you can always cut out "windows" in the top and sides and cover with clear plastic. Probably easier to just pick up two translucent storage containers that match. I'll have to study the photos again, as usually leaves need to be kept misted because that is the only way they can absorb the water they need while severed until they form roots able to take over.

There was another good idea when we were showed how to prep 2 liter bottles for winter sowing. Cut them all the way around 5 inches above the bottom, cut an inverted V in the top section about 5/8" wide at the bottom and extending up about an inch, doesn't have to be precise. Then the top can be squeezed so that it will slide into the bottom. I was going to try to root another rose cutting using that method and leave the bottle cap on. For winter sowing outdoors, we leave the caps off.

What I'm leading up to here is that somebody posted a photo on a different thread but in WS'ing than the one I'm linking to about how they root in those bottles using some medium that is brownish, looks like a mix I special ordered. Canadian Sun Gro #2 if you can get it is supposed to be good. Sorry I don't know where that photo is. That cutting had leaves, and I'm sure rooting hormone was used. Usually you strip most of the leaves off but the top ones. But one of the points of using a 2-liter bottle is to allow light in and the humidity keeping the leaves able to absorb it.

I've rooted rose cuttings, not a good success rate but got most of the ones I wanted. Often they will drop all their leaves, then I'll wait awhile and see a node(s) starting to swell. Sometimes it leafs out and sometimes it just stalls, then has been in my setup too long and rots. But when they do leaf out, they need light.

I hope token will show up and is ok.

Here is a link that might be useful: Thread on WS forum, You ok down there Drippy and GGG?

I'm going to try rooting some cuttings like in the first photo at the link as well as try to get a cloning system going.

The other pictures, I don't fuss with my bottles like that, may use a yardstick to start at 5" then cut a slit w/xacto knive, cut around with scissors quesstimating and then cut the inverted V in the top section. Some people cut 2 V's for venting.

There are so many propagation methods, and it differs from type of plant and whether the cuttings are soft or hardwood. I read a couple methods how to do hardwood cuttings but can't remember.

Somebody buried upright some cut pieces of rose cane, maybe at least 12", didn't mention if hormone used, and got them way down deep w/only tips exposed, don't know if he started with leaves on the top or not, took a few months, but they rooted and leafed out where the tops were above ground.

Here is a link that might be useful: Rooting a cutting in a 2-liter bottle

Aliska, I appreciate your response. The tubs I plan to use are some that I salvaged from the hospital. My sterile supplies come in them. I did manage to find a good cover that is about the right size. It is the clear box that crossiants (sp) come in from Sam's. For the plant holding deck, I am going to use a thin sheet of that styrofoam insulation. It is easy to cut. I am still looking for for something to hold the cuttings in the holes. I have some foam but have seen mixed reviews.

I dug out some old aquarium air pumps but have to go to the pet store for either bubblewands or stones and some tubing. That should be all the supplies I need to start.

The garden store I went to yesterday did not sell rooting gel and I already have powder but that will wash off. Not sure if I will need it for the first go around.

I have plenty of gardenia to experiment with. All in my yard come from a single plant at my parents' home so I know they root easy. I also plan to use some loripeltum and maybe some purple sage. I'll wait til my blueberries get active before I take cuttings from them.

I've been busy this weekend getting my seeds ready so put this on the backburner.

While I'm thinking of it, if and when I get to it, I'm going to try the foam curlers, cut down into smaller pieces.

I don't have a heat mat; somewhere in there said something about that. One bubblestone will have to do to start.

Maybe you can improvise some little cages like the plastic ones shown in the photo somewhere? Possibly bottle caps and/or bottle caps and curlers. I'll think of something if one fails, keep trying, it's a learning process. All I have is powder, may use it on some and pick up some gel if I can find any around here. There is something called Dip and Grow, haven't seen any.

Sounds like you have a plan and supplies, no matter how much the explanation, I always find I end up having to make my own adaptations. Don't be afraid to go with what you have.

I'm winter sowing seeds, then annuals in late March, so that is my top priority now like yours.

If token is ok, he'll probably eventually show up, people do come and go. He's contributed a lot.

Good luck with your seeds and your cloning. If I was any help at all, you are most welcome.

token responded to my ping thread on the winter sowing forum. He's in Florida and will be back in a week. He said I could email him if I have a problem, I don't need to yet but that is also an option for you if he doesn't come back to the thread on this forum.

Really before I bother anyone else, I'm going to have to read again and again through that long thread anyway, can't take it all in in one or two reads.

token answered again on my thread over on the winter sowing forum. He put a tutorial together on his blogspot with photos. Very straightforward and much easier to follow.

Think all your questions and more are answered there, no hormone, and you should be good to go when you can get to it.

Here is a link that might be useful: token's blogspot - cloning machine tutorial w/photographs

I rarely visit this forum, so I apologize for the delay.

I have not seen any updates from token28001 or the others since last year on what progress they have made. I have a few questions of my own.

1. Is the purpose of the bubbler to increase humidity in the lower chamber or to actually mist/wet the bottom of the cuttings? It seems to me that the depth of the chamber or water would be important there.

2. How important is light? I was thinking more for leafless cuttings like some with just buds. I have some opaque tubs where one can be inverted to form a top.

Thanks.

1. The bubblers are to mist the bottom of the cuttings. They need to dry out between sprays, so I have mine set on a 30/30 minute timer. On 30 mins, off 30 mins. It's a cheap little timer I picked up at Lowe's. 6 inches is the shallowest depth I think to make this work. I tried a deeper container, but it didn't give me enough bubbles. The shallow depth allows the bubbles to pop at the surface, spraying the cuttings with tiny drops of water.

2. Light isn't very important at this stage. It only promotes top growth. However, I do have mine on a 12/12 cycle with a 4' shop light located above. Once they've rooted, they need more light, so I either move them to a shady spot outside during the summer or to another shelf with 2 shop lights during the winter. You have to harden off any rooted cuttings just like you would if you were growing from seed. The leaves are tender and may shed at first, especially when the humidity drops outside the container. Some plants need to be tented once transferred to soil/containers. I have had to experiment a lot with this method.