Ideal potting medium for peppers

15 years ago

I have a hit or miss success with different varieties of soil/soiless types of mediums. I thought a base of Pro Mix with added bark chips as well as other ammendments worked well for a bunch of peppers but not all for some reason. I started the Lemon Drop seedlings and they germinated fine but all the transplants went into a high peat based medium they all started wilting which was odd. I usually atributed the wilting to have no enough airation and well draining properties. This used to occur in the mixes I had that used a base of Miracle Grow Garden Soil that was very heavy and held too much water. Any thoughts as to why certain varieties love peat and others not so much?

As a side note a friend gave me an unknown pepper plant (looks similar to a Santa Fe) and it was planted in what looks like typical Florida sugar sand. It looks lush and deep dark green and quite honest, healthier than any of mine that I use special mixes and thorough fertilizer / mineral supplementation. Odd that this is the case, although I did notice most of his pepper plants were in qhat looked like heavy shade whereas most of mine are in full sun. Thoughts?

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Comments (22)

User
15 years ago
I start and grow all of mine in Pro Mix or a similar product called Fafard.
pkapeckopickldpepprz
Original Author
15 years ago
I like the Pro Mix and Fafard by themselves but in Florida heat and full sun they dry out way too fast. I'd have to water twice a day and I am wanting to limit it to once a day at the most which is why I tend to add some heavier mix to hold water a bit better.
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I wouldn't use any of the moisture control potting mixes for anything. I've only grown citrus in containers and used redwood in place of coconut husk chips. You want to stay away from sphagnum peat moss, at least in container grown trees, not sure about inground citrus. I've also added a neutral aquatic plant mix (almost like a gravel) to help with drainage. I've bought a couple of my trees from Four Winds and have been very happy with their plants and advice. I'm definitely a novice when it comes to citrus and there are many (most lol) on this site with a good deal more experience than me. Karyn The info below is for inground planting and was copied from the Four Wind website : Climate In general, ground-planted citrus trees are happiest in warm, temperate areas. Some varieties are much more frost-tolerant than others. For information on a specific variety, please refer to our hardiness table. Location A sunny, frost- and wind-free location with southern exposure is best. (If in doubt, leave the tree in its plastic container and place it in the spot you have in mind. Water as needed. After a week or two, you should be able to tell whether or not it's happy.) Reflected heat from sidewalks, walls, driveways, or other structures can also help to create a warmer "microclimate." Avoid lawns that get frequent, shallow waterings. Don't crowd your tree, for even though it is a dwarf, it will need room for its eight-foot ultimate size. Soil Citrus trees are famous for tolerating a wide variety of soils, including clay. However, good drainage is essential, as citrus trees can't survive standing water for long. To test your drainage, dig a hole 30" deep where you would like to place the tree. Fill with water to saturate the soil. The next day refill it with water. Your drainage is OK if the water level drops 2" in two hours. If the water does not drain, plant your tree in a raised bed or dig a deeper hole and then amend the soil as described in the following paragraph. Soils rich in humus are best. For heavy or poor soils, we recommend digging a large hole and filling it back in, half with the best of the original soil, and half with a good-quality amendment mix. Plant the root ball high to allow it room to settle over time. (The upper roots can be slightly visible.) Planting If the plant is growing in a container, gently invert the plant and container to remove the soil ball intact. Squeezing the sides of the plastic pot can help to loosen the soil and roots. After removing the plant, take note of the abundant fibrous root system. Straighten out any circling roots before planting. Cut off and remove any broken roots. Amend your planting hole as described above. Do not add fertilizer to the soil as you're backfilling your hole; however, you can apply some to the soil surface after planting. Be sure to tamp soil lightly as you go and water plant thoroughly after planting to eliminate air pockets. Finally, you should stake the tree until well-established, tying the trunk lightly to a stake while leaving room for the trunk to expand. Green plant tie is a good choice for tying trees to stakes. The best time of day to plant in summer is early morning. Try to keep the roots out of the sun as much as possible. Keep the roots moist, and water well once transplanted. In winter, time of day is not as critical. Temperatures above freezing would be advised for outdoor transplanting. You may wish to pinch off fruit and blossoms for the first year or two after a new planting, to encourage stronger root and branch development. Watering Consistency is the key with citrus watering! As with so many plants, citrus trees require soil that is moist but never soggy. How often to water will vary with soil porosity, tree size, and temperature. Allowing the top of the soil to dry slightly is OK. 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In general, it is probably best to water in the morning, but if plants are dry or wilted it is better to water them right away than wait until morning. See our watering page for more. Fertilizer Since citrus trees are heavy nitrogen feeders, make sure there is more nitrogen (N) than phosphorous (P) or potassium (K). Use at least a 2-1-1 ratio. Also important are trace minerals like iron, zinc, and manganese, so make sure those are included as well. Many all-purpose products will work. We prefer slow release fertilizers in the granular form rather than fertilizer stakes. Follow rates on the package carefully as fertilizers come in different strengths, release rates, and application schedules. Foliar applications of trace minerals in the form of kelp or other soluble fertilizers are effective on leaves when half their mature size. Yellowing leaves indicate lack of fertilizer or poor drainage. Mulches Liberal use of mulches will conserve precious water. Less water is needed as evaporation is reduced and weeds are inhibited. A 2-3 inch layer of redwood shavings, fir bark, compost, or other organic matter will help with water retention, while gravel or crushed rock will reflect heat and hasten fruit ripening. To avoid root diseases, do not allow grass to grow under the tree's canopy, and keep mulch at least six inches away from the tree trunk. Suckering Know where the graft union in on your tree. It can usually be seen as a diagonal scar between 4 and 8 inches from the soil. Remove all shoot growth below the graft. These so-called "suckers" take vitality from the top of the tree (the fruiting wood). Especially on young trees, they are very vigorous. Remove suckers as soon as they are observed. See photos. Thorns Thorns are removed from rootstocks when they are grafted. Juvenile fruiting wood will sometimes have thorns; this is a young plant's way of defending against grazing animals. 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There are many variables to be considered in a discussion about soils. I'll tell you a little about 3 different soils & you can decide how different they are and if you think compaction/soil collapse will be a problem for you. Peat based soils, like MG, break down quickly - within a single growing season. When you use them, you have to hope the container size and o/a plant mass is enough to compensate for the collapse toward the end of summer. Hopefully, the roots have colonized the container and the planting has matured to the degree that the plant is able to use the water from compacted soils quickly enough to avoid root rot. We hope that roots are healthy enough that they actually become a part of the structure of the soil and function as aids to the soils ability to hold air. For maximun vitality when using these soils, the plant should be bare-rooted every year. Conifer bark-based soils break down at a rate around 1/4 that of peat soils. They virtually guarantee that the roots will become a part of the soil structure w/o much concern for root rot, as long as your irrigation practices are reasonable. The 5:1:1 mix of pine bark:peat:perlite is a good example of this type of soil, and there are hundreds of GW folks growing in it with very good results. You should expect at least 2 years service from this soil, as opposed to 1 from those based on peat. Your trees should have some attention paid to their roots every two years - 3 years maximum, so this is a good soil to use for your trees. The third type of soil is the gritty mix described way upthread. It consists of equal parts by volume - pine or fir bark:Turface:crushed granite. It is 2/3 inert, so it breaks down very slowly and will still be very serviceable long past the time appropriate for you to do a repot/root-pruning. This soil retains its structure for a very long time, and could easily be pressed into 5 years service if the plant's becoming badly root bound before that wasn't a consideration. Clay pots (or other containers that have gas-permeable walls) will always be healthier for your plants - no matter which soil you choose. The price you pay is the need to water more frequently, but that act of watering drives damaging CO2 from soils and brings in a fresh load of air - greatly beneficial to plants, both. Can a clay pot help compensate for a collapsing soil? Yes, to some degree it can. Roots begin to die only a few hours after being deprived of adequate aeration. The small and most important roots die first - then progressively larger roots until air again returns to the soil, allowing the plant to start a rejuvenation process. This cyclic death and regeneration of roots due to collapsed soil is very taxing from a stored energy perspective. The plant uses it's reserves or current photosynthate (food) production to regenerate roots. This means less increase in mass in other organs - including fruit. How the clay pot helps is by allowing air back into the root zone quicker, so not as many roots die when using a soil too water retentive. Al
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User
15 years ago
Before I got lazy I made my own mix from peat, bagged top soil, and perlite. That worked well but was a fair amount of work for the number of pots I fill. I don't know if they required less watering. I think Pro Mix has an edge over Fafard which appears to have more perlite and thus less peat to hold water.
tolledot
15 years ago
I have never seen it but with a search I note that Pro Mix is mostly Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss...I have looked for a similar product here in the South of Spain and see that this is called TURBA.

The only thing is that it is available in two forms - light or black. The light is the more acidic. Can you tell me if Pro Mix is dark or light (apart from the perlite) so I can look for the most similar mix around here?

Thanks
Joseph
z10
pkapeckopickldpepprz
Original Author
15 years ago
Never heard of turba but Pro Mix is dark brown when wet and light brown when it dries.
tolledot
15 years ago
Thanks, it's the light one I need then.

(Turba is just sphagnum moss in Spanish, not the trade mark)

Joseph
z10
love2troll
15 years ago
I use the ProMix Bx for regular potting soil and ProMix VFT for seed starting.

Not much problem with drying out unless I have too small a container for the plant size. A good heavy mulch of shredded cypress really helps too. I use an inch or so on the bottom of the containers (most are 8 gal and up) and 2-3" or more on the top.

If possible, pile mulch (grass clippings, leaves etc) around the base of the container. Keeps the containers cooler in hot weather and the roots will grow out bottom of container into the mulch. Setting the containers on landscape fabric will keep roots contained and help with weed or tree root problem.
User
15 years ago
Here is a link showing the compostion.

Here is a link that might be useful: Pro Mix
love2troll
15 years ago
Forgot to post the link.

Haven't checked for a few years, but from memory the ProMix pH starts out about 6.8 and settles in to about 6.4 pH.

Here is a link that might be useful: ProMix
pkapeckopickldpepprz
Original Author
15 years ago
Here are some examples of what I mean.

This first picture is the pepper I received from my friend. Notice how nice and green it is and when I received it Saturday it was in nothing more than SAND, most likely sugar sand. I pretty much took it out and for an experiment used this SAND on one of my peppers (shown in next picture below this one). I kept the rootball filled with the heavy and wet sand intact and just filled in with a mostly sandy mix with sparing amounts of peat/perlite.

Here is the after effects of my pepper in a blend of the sand (taken from the plant I received from my friend) and the remnants of the peat mix it was in previously. I will mention the leaves were droopy before in the peat mix and hasn't improved much in the mostly sand mix. I also have moved this into a mostly shade area within the last 2 days.

Here is the reason I started questioning whether a mostly peat mix is good for all peppers. Most of my peppers thrive in a pro mix or pro mix blend, but this particular pepper (which was doing well before the heat has gotten to the 90's and will continue from now until October) stays wilted pretty much all day and doesn't seem to recover during the evening like other plants in full sun seem to do. As you can see it has a bunch of peppers and I took off a lot of them last week as I thought maybe it was wilting because of the maximum fruit load and I removed about half. It is shown in a shady location compared to the full sun blast it was getting previously approximately from 10am to sunset.

Here are the 3 lemon peppers and they are staying quite small as they stay shrivelled up and I guess since I moved the entire pot into full shade they aren't as shrivelled up as they have been since they sprouted. They as well have been moved into mostly shade.

I guess I am wondering at this point if the effects of the wilting (that doesn't occur to this degree on my other peppers that stay out in full sun) is due to heat/sun stress or the peat mix. I am at a crossroads here and would like some suggestions.
pkapeckopickldpepprz
Original Author
15 years ago
I am also amazed my friend was able to grow much nicer looking peppers in sugar sand in 80% shade with probably no fertilizer (he is a pepper newbie) and mine look like crap and I use all the pepper head secrets like Epsom salt, fish emulsion and alfalfa pellets and compost along with pro mix or a pro mix homemade blend. I'm quite envious and maybe I need to learn something from my pepper newbie friend which goes counter to everything I have learned since I've been growing peppers as well as the general knowledge here.
pkapeckopickldpepprz
Original Author
14 years ago
no updates? I am surprised no one ever offered any advice on this last summer when I posted it. I can say I started all new plants this year and they are thriving. The biggest difference I have found is peppers do MUCH better in shadier places than in direct sun which is counter to what the FAQ state about idea pepper conditions.
hmacdona1
14 years ago
I experimented with coconut coir for the first time this year. I started some peppers in the coir and others in the pro mix. To note the difference, I started a few of the same varieties in the two different mediums.

The peppers I started in the coconut coir sprouted about the same time, but they stayed stunted for a very very long time. They definitely performed better in the pro mix. I fertized both with organic kelp fertilizer.

My tomatoes on the other hand, performed really well growing in the coconut coir. Some of my flower seeds didn't like it either.

I've been told the coir is more "neutral" than peat moss, so I thought it would be an interesting experiment.

Not sure why the plants would stay so stunted in the coir, but I know for next year not to use the coir to start my pepper seeds.

As an aside, I have potted up my tomato plants with a fair bit of the coir mixed in with pro mix and a few other additives. The coir does seem to help the tomatoes retain their moisture in the pots better than peat moss ever did.
tn_veggie_gardner
14 years ago
I've had great luck with a MG Potting Mix (not soil) & Canadian sphagnum peat mixture.
jesse_2008
14 years ago
I can't seem to find any pro mix soil anywhere here in So. Cal. I called their company and I can order it but it would cost about $30.00 for a bag. Hey Tn.Veggie Gardner how big of a bag of the MG potting soil and the Canadian sphagnum peat mixture do you use? and by the way This is a great fourm This was my first season growing peppers and I feel that I did ok, now I'm getting ready for next season Thanks everyone.
pkapeckopickldpepprz
Original Author
14 years ago
Jesse2008, When I was out in So Cal visiting family I noticed they sell at Lowes, Home Depot and Do-It Centers is a product called Super Soil and I actually prefer that to Pro Mix, I really wish they sold it here in Florida. It seems like the idea potting soil. I think you'd do well to try that. I repotted my sisters plants with that stuff and it worked out great.
jesse_2008
14 years ago
I saw that super soil at the home depot, I'll read the pkg. this time. Thanks for the tip pkapeckopickldpepprz
zanderspice
14 years ago
I tried ProMix this year and I wasn't too happy. I don't think it was the high peat content, but instead a bad batch. It must have been contaminated with herbicide or something. I know it's highly regarded, so I suspect this was an isolated problem. Still, I won't be trying it again.

In Southern California, Super Soil is pretty good but my favorite is Sunland Natural and Organic available at OSH. Fox Farm stuff is great too, but the Sunland is cheaper and really good. I think there's some peat in there, but also coco coir, worm castings, pumice etc...
tn_veggie_gardner
14 years ago
jesse: It just depends on the container size, of course. I'd estimate it was about an 80/20 mix, the 80 being the MG. You want to stir in the Canadian Sphagnum Peat well or else it will block water from escaping the container eventually (as the peat is meant for this purpose, among a few others...to slow down the water drainage). I'd do a big layer of MG, then a small layer of CSP, then repeat until container was as full as you want it. Then, i'd hand stir the mix (ya know, where you grab handfuls & turn it around). I would definitely also only recommend that mix for containers. My peppers continue to do awesome in it. =)
butchfomby_yahoo_com
13 years ago
HAVE BEEN GROWING BELL PEPPERS AND HOT PEPPERS WITH GREAT SUCCESS HERE IN EAST OKLA...
1. PEPPERS GROW BEST WHEN STARTED SLOW, NOT MUCH FERTILIZER...
2. I MIX IN A LOT OF HOMEMADE COMPOST....MOSTLY LEAF MOLD ETC.
3. MY TRICK IS: I GO INTO THE FOREST AND SCRAPE A LOT LEAF
MOLD AND TOP SOIL FROM UNDER THE TREES...A WHEEL BARROW
LOAD...I WILL PUT ABOUT A 39OZ COFFEE CAN INTO THE PLANTING
HOLE WHEN TRANSPLANTING....THIS WORKS GREAT WITH ALL
PLANTS, ESP TOMATOES AND PEPPERS....THIS SOIL FROM THE
FOREST IS LOADED WITH MYCHORRHIZA AND WILL GROW ROOTS
EVERYWHERE...I HAVE A TIME GETTING MY PLANTS OUT OF THE
POT IN THE FALL BECAUSE ROOT BALL IS SO LARGE...I ALSO
DRILL A LOT OF HOLES IN MY POTS FOR AERATION....PLANTS
NEED TO BREATHE GOOD OXYGEN...AIM AT GROWING HEALTHY
WHITE ROOTS FOR SUCCESSFUL CROP...PEPPERS NEED SHADE
FROM EVENING SUN IN 90 PLUS WEATHER....HOPE THIS WILL
HELP SOME OF YOU GROW YOUR OWN VEGETABLES...MY NEXT
TRICK IS USING BIOCHAR IN MY HOMEGROWN PRODUCTS....
ALL GARDNERS SHOULD CHECK THIS OUT...I MAKE MY OWN WITH
A FIFTY GAL STEEL DRUM....TIME FOR SOME OF US TO CHANGE
....THE MYCORRHIZA WORKS, I KNOW....
butchfomby_yahoo_com
13 years ago
HAVE BEEN GROWING BELL PEPPERS AND HOT PEPPERS WITH GREAT SUCCESS HERE IN EAST OKLA...
1. PEPPERS GROW BEST WHEN STARTED SLOW, NOT MUCH FERTILIZER...
2. I MIX IN A LOT OF HOMEMADE COMPOST....MOSTLY LEAF MOLD ETC.
3. MY TRICK IS: I GO INTO THE FOREST AND SCRAPE A LOT LEAF
MOLD AND TOP SOIL FROM UNDER THE TREES...A WHEEL BARROW
LOAD...I WILL PUT ABOUT A 39OZ COFFEE CAN INTO THE PLANTING
HOLE WHEN TRANSPLANTING....THIS WORKS GREAT WITH ALL
PLANTS, ESP TOMATOES AND PEPPERS....THIS SOIL FROM THE
FOREST IS LOADED WITH MYCHORRHIZA AND WILL GROW ROOTS
EVERYWHERE...I HAVE A TIME GETTING MY PLANTS OUT OF THE
POT IN THE FALL BECAUSE ROOT BALL IS SO LARGE...I ALSO
DRILL A LOT OF HOLES IN MY POTS FOR AERATION....PLANTS
NEED TO BREATHE GOOD OXYGEN...AIM AT GROWING HEALTHY
WHITE ROOTS FOR SUCCESSFUL CROP...PEPPERS NEED SHADE
FROM EVENING SUN IN 90 PLUS WEATHER....HOPE THIS WILL
HELP SOME OF YOU GROW YOUR OWN VEGETABLES...MY NEXT
TRICK IS USING BIOCHAR IN MY HOMEGROWN PRODUCTS....
ALL GARDNERS SHOULD CHECK THIS OUT...I MAKE MY OWN WITH
A FIFTY GAL STEEL DRUM....TIME FOR SOME OF US TO CHANGE
....THE MYCORRHIZA WORKS, I KNOW....
sjon
13 years ago
Dear butch,
...THIS SOIL FROM THE FOREST IS LOADED WITH MYCHORRHIZA..., but potentially also other stuff that's not very good for our plants.
...PEPPERS NEED SHADE FROM EVENING SUN IN 90 PLUS WEATHER...my (habanero, jalapeno and birds eye)peppers grow perfectly well in 90 plus weather and they are not protected from evening sun. Guess it depends on the type of pepper.
USING BIOCHAR IN MY HOMEGROWN PRODUCTS....since you are not using the carbon for atmospheric carbon capture and storage, but instead as a soil enhancer it's called plain charcoal ;) Be careful as the carbon might disrupt the availability of nutrients for your plants.

Then again, my grandma said:"if it works, it works".

Ideal potting medium for peppers

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Ideal potting medium for peppers

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