If you use a "mix" like Josh said, most have small amounts of nutrients to get through seedling stage. Maybe a light dose or 2 of All-purpose or fish ferts prior to planting in the garden or final pot. I wouldn't worry about epsom salts at this point at all. Mg is needed more at flowering than during growth stage. And even then, if you're planting in-ground, most soil has plenty of Mg in it. You really don't want to add it unless your plants show you need it. Even if your native soil doesn't have much and your soil is on the acidic side, you can always add dolomite lime for Ca and Mg. If on the alkaline side, then you would want epsom salts. If you're planting in pots or in-ground, you need to check the ph of the soil or the mix. Again, if acidic and your water supply is acidic, you can add Dolomite lime. I don't since my water is pretty alkaline. I, myself, add gypsum and a bit of bone meal for the Ca and epsom salts for the Mg for my potted plants. The general rule is anything east of the Mississippi is acidic, west alkaline. Since most veggies like acidic(peppers 5.8-7.0 I think), I don't use ANY lime (in-ground or pots). Just a general rule -- always exceptions to any rule. Need to at least check ph of soil, soil mix, and your water. That, or have a soil test done by a lab. Walmart or any drugstore will have unscented epsom salts. Kevin This post was edited by woohooman on Sun, Feb 23, 14 at 22:09

Hello Toronto Sal, IÂve grown Habs the past two summers. IÂve had good success and IÂm a little further north of you. IÂm not sure why someone would discourage you from growing hot peppers in your region? IÂm no veteran by any stretch, but here is what I have learned so far: 1) start with fresh seed (my one year old seed did not do well at all last year); 2) start seedlings indoors in early January and give them plenty of light after first leaves appear; 3) a heated mat is highly recommended for hot pepper germination (first year my seeds took forever to germinate and were pretty small when put outdoors; 4) before planting in the garden, harden off the plants gradually (first year my plants went from sunroom to garden lost half within the week); 5) pick a garden area that has good drainage and is in full sun all day; 6) be patient, peppers take longer to produce than other vegetables. Up north here (LOL) thereÂs a farm that grows all variety of peppers in their fields, both hot and sweet. Anything I do not grow I can pick up at their "Pepper Fest" each year. Good luck, Bill (ottawapepper)

I would say they are hotter than is optimal. Being on the floor which is even hotter could be pushing them too far. Getting them raised off the floor sounds like a good idea. I just looked at your weather forecast (Bend, OR) and it looks like a great stretch of weather for peppers with lots of sun and low 80's to upper 70's for highs although it is going to be pretty cool nights in the mid to upper 40's. I think maybe they will start to take off in the next few weeks. My super hots have been doing really well the last few weeks and we have been mid 80's and some 90's. But our nights don't seem to cool of nearly as much as yours. We typically stay in the lower 60's at night this time of year. Bruce

with any luck : cayenne hot wax thai hots white habenero greek pepperoncini bhut jolokia jamaica red naga morich cochiti super shepherd congo trinidad super chilis early jalapeno anaheim peter pepper hawaiin super hot fatali chimayo wenks yellow hots vecchio-cherry kalocsai-v2 jaloro big jim habenero hinkle hatz red savina peach lantern bulgarian carrot gourmet bell - yellow orange sun mexicalli chili lemon drop sweet banana cal wonder prolly a couple more sweets and i wouldn't be surprised if another hot or 2. how did this all happen ? the pro-mix people will love me next spring. wildlifeman