I still have (3) fairly viable Flowering Almond Shrubs. I've always loved the spring bloom, and the shrub usually doesn't look too bad the rest of the year either. Two years ago, after 5 years or so of growth and flowering, I began to experience wilting on my shrubs right after blooming. At first, it wasn't too bad, but as the years have gone by, the effect is becoming worse and worse. I did some googling, and it appears that there is a fungal disease that is common to these shrubs that is commonly called "brown-off". What I found in prior years directed me to prune off the affected branches (to avoid infection of healthy branches) and to let the plants rejuvenate over the summer, which they did. But, as I said, each year my plants would look worse. This year, I found that this disease actually enters the shrubs via the blooms (which makes a lot of sense). Anyway, I've trimmed them back again, (thankfully, I do have some healthy growth and foliage) ... and I've given them a dose of Bayer's All-in-One Rose systemic treatment. Next year, I'm going to try and remember to give my plants a fungal treatment in the weeks BEFORE they bloom. Hopefully, this might stave off the infection.

I understand your being hesitant to repot the plants again so soon after the first repot. I was in the same situation. Folks here told me that I could leave my plant in the less than optimum soil and hope for the best or get them into soil where it will thrive asap. I went for the second repot and my plant is doing great. I'm currently in SW Florida, zone 10A, but I grew up in zone 6 in Portsmouth, OH. While regular potting soil works so-so in Ohio, and my mother still uses it, I think you may do better with at least a cactus and succulent soil. You still need to mix at least 50/50 perlite or pumice with the soil. Every succulent that I used potting soil on when I lived in Toledo died from rot. I didn't think I was overwatering, but the plants did. I think the soil was a big factor. Hopefully the sun will be shining for you soon! It will lift your spirits and help your plants thrive.

Will- Your Abies balsamea 'Piccolo' looks okay to me. Abies fraseri 'Fastigiata Compacta' - this is likely the result of propagation of a side branch (tertiary, horizontal, rather than secondary vertical) and would be considered a cultivariant. It should develop a leader within a few years. Unknown fir: look up Abies forrestii Abies koreana 'Glauca' - could be 'Glauca' - do you have a spring/early summer photo, would be easier to make a guess. Abies koreana 'Green Compact' is likely the same as 'Compact Dwarf' Cheers- Brent

You're over-watering and/or there is a high level of dissolved solids (salt, from tapwater and fertilizer solution) in the soil (solution). Also, dracaena doesn't do well with fluoridated water, and fluoride is accumulative in plant tissues. It's best to water with some form of deionized water - distilled water, rain, snow melt, dehumidifier or air conditioner condensate, and water from a reverse osmosis filtration system are all good sources. I can see water which exits the drain hole is allowed to sit in the collection saucer, providing a pathway by which all the salts flushed from the soil are able to reenter the soil. Your pot should sit above the effluent that collects in the saucer.It looks like it might be in the original pot, if so, it undoubtedly needs repotting for one of 2 reasons - root congestion (rootbound) or the soil might have collapsed and you're dealing with root rot. There are many recommendations I could make, but I think you would benefit from reading the link I'll leave. It will also help you ask the right questions. Follow me to what Al is talking about. Al