I love hanging/cascading/pendent plants as well. Here's one of my favorites... The photo doesn't do it justice! During summer I only water it twice a week at night. First I quickly hit the tree with the hose and then I water the rest of that section of the garden. When I'm finished I connect the hose to the polytubing at the base of the tree. I turn the hose on and leave it running for around 20 or so minutes. But for the rest of my trees I don't bother with a drip system. I can easily water all the orchids on them with the hose. None of my other trees are three stories tall. Regarding your scarcity of suitable hosts... I think that quite a few trees can easily be grown from fairly substantial cuttings. The next time you lop a large branch off a tree... stick it in a pot and see what happens. Yesterday I took a pretty large branch from each of these three trees... - Plumeria - Privet - Mulberry ... and stuck them all in the same 5 gallon pot with some reasonably well drained mix. Plumerias can definitely grow from fairly large cuttings. Pretty sure the same is true of the Privet. Not sure about the Mulberry though. Plenty of Ficus are more than happy to grow from large cuttings. My uncle recently told me that Moringa can grow from large cuttings and it's a really fast grower. Lots, if not all, tree Aloes can be grown from large cuttings. Same with Aralias, Pachiras, Cordylines, Dracaenas and Yuccas. Last year I lopped some branches off my Mexican Palo Verde. I stuck the two largest ones in pots. Right now the branches are as green as when I potted them... but they haven't sprouted yet. I'm pretty sure that pomegranates can be grown from large cuttings. I've definitely grown grapes from large cuttings. I've also grown Bougainvilleas from large cuttings. Same with the Cup of Gold vine. If you search eBay for pre bonsai, lots of them have probably been grown from cuttings.

Andrew - thanks for updating us on your back. It's a long row to hoe, I'm sure, but things are looking up! Did they give you any kind of timeline for when you should be expecting a return of sensation to those areas that are still numb? That fall you took in your bedroom sounded very scary! You're going to have to be extra careful so you don't do yourself any damage! Glad I was sitting down because my legs went weak when I read that. Don't try to push yourself too much! You should order yourself a celadine from Molokai. Those pics in the other post were insane! I hope your uncle is doing better. Take care!

Hi all. Everytime I go to Hawaii, I come back with a bag full of cuttings, so over the years I've tried most everything. Do you know what color the Plumeria you bought were? If they are Yellows, they tend to be the strongest and will do most of the work for you. In fact, I had a twig break off one of my yellow trees that I put it in a bucket intending to plant and completely forgot about. It rained that week and the bucket filled with water. Since it was in direct sun, the bucket must have warmed up, because when I found it a few weeks later, the cutting had a ton of 5-6" roots! The key is SUN and keeping the moisture and bugs from rotting the cutting before it roots. For my more difficult cuttings (particularly the reds and pinks) I use root starting powder before it goes in the pot and cactus soil and/or a ton of perlite mixed with whatever soil. Fill the bottom of the pot with pea pebbles too to add to drainage if your soil is more moisture holding. Oh, and DO NOT pull them out to check on them. The Plumeria roots are very delicate and thick. I've never repoted without breaking a bunch of them and if the plant is not established, this can be the end of the story.

I'll concentrate on Q 2: At my previous residence in Sydney I had an archway and planted 2 New Dawn roses to cover it and to weave through the vines 2 Jackmanii hybrid clematis, both Danial Deronda. I bought a book on growing clematis before I ventured and followed the planting and feeding guide: I planted them deep in the holes, about 18 inchs from the rose hole, and beneath each hole I placed a goodly dollop of blood and bone along with a about 10 percent sulphate of potash separated from the plants by a layer of soil. I Kept them watered, nursed them along and after about 3 month both plants got hit with the 'Wilt', clematis wilt! The plants collapsed overnight - you need to check the clematis each morning for collapse and as soon as you see it cut the plant off at ground level as close as you can to just above the lowest growing node. I had one clematis for each rose. I managed to save one and from then on the wilt never affected it again, seems it was immune, even a suckering offshoot which I gave to a friend was immune. Eventually mine grew nicely as long as I fed it regularly, kept its roots cool (I placed a few bricks over the root zone) and ensured it was well watered and it produced these magnificent big bluey-purple flowers. Unfortunately my book on the subject seems to have vanished. The New Dawns put on a beautiful show every spring and had a delicious perfume. I planted the roses one each side of the arch and after one season they had covered it over. Pruning, though, proved a bit difficult and now I'm concentrating on roses for a similar purpose that I don't have to prune - I'm putting in crepusule and I already have in Iceberg climbing to grow up a lattice and the red, Dublin Bay. These three roses will flower from spring into autumn, are not overly thorny, have a nice background green for their foliage are to some degree disease resistant, and mostly have a lovely fragrance, except for maybe iceberg. And pruning should be minimum.