How much can you sell sago palms for?
Quaching
10 years ago
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bradleyo_gw
10 years agoeriktampabay
10 years agoRelated Discussions
Is it possible to transplant a LARGE Sago Palm ?
Comments (13)Yes, when i moved my 2 sagos one of them has already flushed, the one with the new flush is in a pot. The other older sago was put in the ground, it has taken much longer to establish but is now getting ready to flush within the next few months. I cut all the fronds off and cleaned them up, removing old dead stuff on the trunk....See MoreSago Palm (Cycad) how much water
Comments (2)I am not chumley, but this is my article that I wrote about 8 years ago on this subject. I would give a link to my other articles that cover every cultivation subject you can think of, but if I did, I would be berated by a couple of the people on this forum. How do I remove the offsets at the base of my sago, and what do I need to do grow them into plants? This is probably the question I get the most. I am going to describe the method I use. Most people do not have to go through as much trouble as this, but to make sure that every one has a good chance , it doesn't hurt to make sure to do it right. Cut all the leaves from the offset plants. If you do not cut the leaves off, they will draw moisture and energy out of the offset before it has a chance to produce roots. The secret to all this is the starch content in the offset. It can live on this starch until new roots are formed. This is another reason why the offset does not need to be watered like you would a cutting, I will get into that later. Remove all the soil from around the offsets. After I have removed most of the soil, I like to spray the area with water to wash off every bit of soil so I can see what I'm doing and also to keep everything as sterile as possible. Use a very sharp tool to remove the offsets from the main plant. Make sure to make a clean cut. Do not pull the offset off the main plant. Sometimes the offset will pull out a small, round piece of stem when you do this, and this makes a hole for fungus to get into. Also the more jagged the cut, the more there is a chance to have a place for fungus to get into. Sometimes I have to cut the offset again, once it is removed to make a cleaner, smoother cut. Tools that seem to work the best are very large knives, very sharp shovels, machetes, and if you remove offsets on a regular basis, there is nothing like a reciprocating saw, or otherwise known as a "sawsall." Once you have removed all the offsets, spray or brush the wounds of the offsets, as well as the wounds on the main plant, with a fungicide. I like to use Daconil. You can add a rooting hormone to the fungicide that you use on the offsets if you want. It seems to help a little. Once this has dried, I paint all the wounds with black tree paint, or also known as tree sealer. Once this has dried, the offsets are ready to plant, and the soil can be placed around the main plant once again. "Advanced method" If you have done this before, and are good at starting offsets, you can try this advanced method. When you cut the offset, the more area that is cut, the more roots that will be produced. Most offsets are attached to the main plant by a narrow attachment point, instead of the width of the entire offset. By making another larger cut on the offset you can get at least 5 times the roots. This larger cut also has a larger wound to heal, so it is better to get used to rooting offsets before you try this. This is where the tree paint comes in very handy. Now that you are ready to plant the offsets, place the offsets in containers with the cleanest sand you can find. I use course builder's sand. Any organic material can increase the chance of fungus getting into the offsets. Some people use pumice, or perlite, instead of sand. I try to place an offset in a container that is close to the diameter of the offset. I put the small ones in a community pot. Place the containers in the shade, the sun can dry out the offsets if it is too extreme. The most important thing to remember is that there are no roots or leaves on these offsets. They don't lose very much moisture, and can't take very much up without roots. This means that you don't water these offsets like you would a regular plant, or a cutting. Moisten the offsets maybe once a week or once every other week just to keep them from desiccating. The offsets live from the starch contained in them so there is no need to treat them like cuttings. The offsets will root in faster if it is warm, but even during the warm months, it may take up to 8 months to root in and produce leaves. Once the offsets are fully rooted you can plant them in your normal medium, and put them out in your growing area. Tom Broome President- The Cycad Society...See Morebonsai sago palm, or a sago palm?
Comments (3)I agree 100%. A bonsai sago is just a name they give sago palms when small and they have a decorative pot and some nice rocks or maybe mulch. It probably sells better when you say its a bonsai. They say its a bonsai but in my opinion, unless you really love the challenge of making and maintaining bonsai, its better off in a real pot with real soil. I have had "bonsai" sago palms before and the rocks are sometimes glued all around the entire plant which isnt very healthy, but you can keep it in that pot until it outgrows it in a year or so. It should be watered well and kept outside in warmer months. It will make a "flush" which are just a new set of leaves usually 2 times a year, but sometimes only once. A larger plant can have 10-20 leaves in a flush but smaller plants have less. When its making a flush it must be in full sun or else you get streched out leaves which sometimes looks nice, but it isnt very proportional to the other leaves and makes the plant very easy to fall in the wind. If you are looking for a houseplant and only a houseplant I think peace lilies and parlor palms are great. They are always growing and both bloom pretty often also. They love a sunny window. African violets are also very nice. They stay small, but there flowers dont go unnoticed. I just keep mine by a sunny window and water it every time it looks dry at it is almost always in flower (right now its full of them). They are easy. Corn plants (not the one you get corn from) also make great houseplants and can flower when older (mine have yet to do that though). They grow slow making them perfect for the home and can be bought at nice sizes. Dont get me wrong, sagos have no problem being indoors and mine did great until that new flush of leaves came and the leaves got too long from the lack of sun. They probably wont even flush out very often indoors because its not warm and sunny enough. I wouldnt expect a flush indoors more than every year and a half unless you take it out for the summer. And with any plant, if you want it to get big and healthy, fertilize it every once in a while, most plants really love it! Good luck! -Alex...See MoreCan Sago palm pups be separated from mother plant?
Comments (43)I have a Male and a Female Sago both about 4 feet tall. Both of them regularly (more from the male) sprout "Pups". I take a sharp spade (small shovel) and get as close to the parent plant as possible and then put pressure until the Pup pops off. When we vacation, I have sometimes had to remove up to 20 or more pups from the male sago. The wounds always heal with no care and the parent plants always do fine after. The males trunk is a little deformed from all the surgeries to remove pups :) Difference between male and female..... Males have a large pollen stalk that grows out of the center - later dries up and falls off. Females have what looks like a large pregnant belly that is holding all of the red seed pods. This belly opens up and has TONS of seeds!! These eventually move to the bottom as more fronds grow and then they fall on the ground. Here are pictures of the male and female plants........See Moremimalf
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