The big thing with palms is that they really like good drainage (don't like water-logged soils). I also tend to have heavy clay soils. So I like to add some peat moss and sand or perlite (for drainage). Also add some humus into the soil. I find that the soil sold as "Topsoil" in garden centers is usually heavy so really like to lighten the mix. Gypsum is also used to lighten heavy soils. Mulching will help main the soil's moisture and temperature levels. Palms are said to be relatively heavy feeders (but don't overdo it). I use a fertilizer higher in nitrogen. Sorry I can't help about the magnesium or manganese--not sure about the particular trace element needs of palms. Maybe a fellow poster can chime in here. The windmill should do fine in your climate. They like moderate climates and actually do better there than in hot tropical climates. Your windmill shouldn't be give you any problems. Good luck!

Like said above, Trachycarpus love humus rich soil. I also add perlite to the mix.

Here is what I use as an average mixture (change due to season)

8% N
2% P
12% K
6% Mg
3% Ca
2.5% Mn
2% Fe
.05% Cu
.2% Zn

Boron (B) is also needed but too much can be toxic to palms. If you have a good amount of organic material, you should be fine.

Thanks njoasis and turtile for your reply... I am wondering what should be the right ratio for the following

Top Soil
Compost
Perlite
Peat Moss

Hi ashhug

I live in Bremerton, Washington and Trachycarpus is almost fool proof here (Seattle etc..). Mature species all around the area have seedlings volunteer freely if both sexes are near, and they (seedlings) have and will grow into mature specimens themselves if left to do so.

I think you are right on as far as fertilizer. A slightly raised bed can sometimes benefit Trachycarpus in our region. The above posts have the right idea as far as soil, the main thing is make sure it is well drained like you would for any plant. Take care and good luck!

-Brian

I looked at the content of my top soil from the description it says

Loam soil, peat, and compost processed through a 1/2" screen. Excellent for seeding lawns, sod, flower beds, and vegetable gardens.

I hope the only thing is missing is the perlite? Wondering if I need add more compost/peat moss?

I looked at the content of my top soil from the description it says

Loam soil, peat, and compost processed through a 1/2" screen. Excellent for seeding lawns, sod, flower beds, and vegetable gardens.

I hope the only thing is missing is the perlite? Wondering if I need add more compost/peat moss?

Hello
Drainage is very important.. Here is the result of bad drainage Remember these 2 was planted the exact time
went through nights of 8* last winter
good drainage

http://www.cloudforest.com/northwest/

These guys are out your way and schedule members' quarterly meetings.

Don't add anymore peat moss. If the top soil you purchased has peat in it, I would add medium sized pine bark to the mix to aid drainage.

I mix the soil together by eye but I would say its 50% Native soil, 30% Humus, 20% Perlite, and manure raked into the top.

Windmill palms are not difficult to grow, and the Pacific northwest is an ideal climate for them--I wouldn't stress out too much over it. But contrary to what I've been reading above, I've heard that T. fortunei does quite well in clay soil, as long as it isn't continuously wet; my own soil has lots of clay and is rather heavy, and my windmills are doing quite well. It probably wouldn't hurt to amend the soil with compost, composted manure, etc. but I wouldn't recommend peat or replacing a significant percentage of the native soil. Finally, palms don't REQUIRE fertilizer unless you're growing them in a completely sterile potting mix although fertilizer may help them grow faster. In the long run you're better off amending the soil with lots of organic matter than depending on chemical-based fertilizers. I pile lots of leaves around my palms in the fall (partly for winter protection, but it also helps improve the soil) and lately I've been applying Osmocote with a layer of compost in the spring, and it seems to work just as well as the soluble fertilizers I was using previously (and had to apply more frequently). I've also taken to mixing in some bone meal, blood meal, and green sand every time I plant or transplant something but I haven't been doing it long enough to tell if this makes any difference.

One last note: it's getting a bit late in the season to be planting T. fortunei. Your winters may be mild enough that you can get away with it, but in my more marginal zone 7a/b it's generally recommended that they be planted in spring so they will have a full growing season to get established before being exposed to cold weather (and even then they benefit greatly from protection during their first winter).

Thanks everybody for the great advice... This was really helpful. With all the advice collected from you guys I planted two windmill palm in my lawn and now I am hoping for the best :) :)

I planted two, approx 4'windmill palms, about five years ago. I live in Sumter, SC, with thin top soil, then a clay-sandy underlayer. One palm flourishes and has grown to about 7', the other is stunted and not as robust at about 4.5'. There is adequate yard drainage, and five other yard Palmetto palms are flourishing. Any suggestions for a method to invigorate the stunted windmill palm? thanks,

Here is a link that might be useful: GardenWeb