Thank you for all the helpful feedback!! I'll read up on Chlorosis more. I did have problems with yellowish leaves on some Basil so I started adding magnesium to the soil (via a light sprinkling of Epsom Salt on top of the soil) and that helped a lot. Soil is Miracle Grow garden soil. I water them using tap water but I adjust the pH to around 6.5 or a little higher but less than 7.0. Roughly every other week I have added individual packets of dissolving Miracle Grow fertilizer to the water (1 packet per gallon). Once about 2 weeks back I added a teaspoon of Epsom Salt per 1 gallon of water that I used to water the pepper plants, too. The plant in the picture was grown from seed in that peat pot, then the entire peat pot was put in a pot just a little smaller than a 3-gallon nursery pot (with drain holes on bottom and sides). I have noticed that most of the plants I started in the peat pots are much smaller than plants I started in plain old solo cups. Interesting comment from Ken on the difference in water drainage. It's possible I've been drowning them by watering inside the peat pot too much. I'm done with peat pots! I'm using two iPower 400W light kits. (See link.) In one kit I'm using the Metal Halide bulb and in the other kit I'm using the High Pressure Sodium bulb. The plant in the pic was almost directly under the MH light, roughly 3 feet away from it; and diagonal from the HPS light, roughly 8-10 feet from it, and slightly shaded from the HPS light by another plant. I keep the lights on 16 hours per day using a timer. I try to keep the temperature in the room at 76 degrees F, but since the fungus gnats started multiplying heavily I've kept the door closed (thermostat outside room) and the lights put off so much heat that I opened a window. Temps have been around 75-85F during the day and on the nights I forget to close the window as the lights turn off, temps drop to probably 50-65 F. Yes, I have probably been keeping them too moist, watering every day, and watering directly inside the peat pots. For reference, the Mosquito Dunks' active ingredient is a bacteria called Bacillus thuringiensis subspecies israelensis (BTi) that kill the larvae of a few Dipterans including mosquitos and fungus gnats. An EPA report states that BT is naturally occurring and has been in widespread use for over 30 years with no confirmed reports of health concerns (except to honey bees and Daphnia (water fleas), which I don't have - or want - inside my house ;). I'd have to look up the URL, but I also read that BTi can be used without losing "organic" certification status. Is chlorosis reversible or should I terminate the few plants that show these symptoms? A few more pics: Thanks again! David Here is a link that might be useful: iPower light kit at Amazon

Which leaves are turning yellow, the young leaves or the older leaves? How long ago were the plants transplanted? The leaves that are yellow, is the yellowing between the veins or in the veins and not in between or all over? Since you did not add fertilizer to the second plot (symptomatic plot) then you probably have a N deficiency, just fertilize and you should be fine. I would also get some gympsum or calcitic lime and add that as well. The gypsum is very soluble in water and can supply Ca to the plant fast whereas the calcitic lime is relatively insoluble and will be slowly available to the plant but will offset any of the acidity that the compost has added. If you do a pH test on your own you are only going to get half of the story, so be weary of the results. The pH of the soil is affected by many things, the plant, the soil type and the organic matter. The plant and the organic matter can be measured the simple way but the soil part you need to do something different (namely an exchange) in order to get the value. The soil clay acts in the same way as your water softener, in that it has the capacity to hold a variety of positively charged ions (Ca, Mg, K, H, Na, NH4)and will exchange those with the soil solution thus making them available to the plant. themedicinalpepper.com Here is a link that might be useful: The Medicinal Pepper

Leaf curling/distortion usually indicates a deficit of Calcium and Magnesium... Get your hands on Dolomite Lime pellets (which has both Calcium and Magnesium)... Use about a Tablespoon or less either dissolved in water (then watered into soil) or sprinkled around the soil (then watered). If you can't get that, you can also use Epsom Salt to supply Magnesium, sprinkle half a Table Spoon around the base of the plant and water, then dissolve 1 Table Spoon in a gallon of water (distilled suggested) and spray on the top and bottom of the entire plant (in the morning or before night, NOT in the middle of the day/sun). Do this only every 2 weeks, never more. Calcium is a bit harder to do, milk works, best if you get your hands on powdered milk, ground egg shells work also, but are a VERY slow release (best if added to soil at the beginning of the year). Best bet is probably Dolomite Lime, it won't mess with your soil pH so much and it should dissolve quickly in water. Hope that helps :)

looks like a fungus and could be early blight. Had a cool wet spring and early summer so Im battling this with the tomatos and to a light degree on the peppers. The peppers seem far more resistant to it. I thought I might lose some tomatos but now with 2 weeks of dry weather they are creating more new leaves at a much faster rate than leaves are getting infected. Im suspecting Im dealing with Septoria Leaf spot which is more controllable than early blight. What ever you do, avoid touching other leaves particularly of any other plants after removing the sick leaves. I wear nitrile gloves, cleanly cut off the whole leaf and stem, NOT letting them fall on the ground if possible since you might just be adding more spores back onto the soil, toss them in a bucket and throw them in the trash. Remove the gloves and wash your hands before going back to the garden