Clumping bamboo in MA will not be the same as clumping bamboo in FL :-) Even in my pretty mild climate, clumping bamboo is an extremely manageable plant and I see no reason not assume a similar well-behaved habit in colder zones. From a regional bamboo specialty nursery: Overview of Clumping Bamboo Clumping bamboo are defined as having a non-invasive rhizome structure (known as pachymorph rhizome) which differs from the better known �and sometimes feared�running bamboo (leptomorph rhizome). Clumpers form a tight cluster of gently arching culms extending from a relatively small root mass. Each underground bud pushes upward forming culms, and do not become long running rhizomes. Instead, clumping bamboos grow outward in a circular formation at a modest pace of 2 to 12 inches per year. Canopy growth is also relatively slow, usually gaining a couple feet of height and width annually. Height range at maturity is between 10 and 20 feet for most species. There are some exceptions; tropical and subtropical species can reach 50 feet or more in the US, given hot, southern climates. We have a special affection for hardy clumping bamboos. We believe these plants will help overcome popular fears about bamboo, and pave the way to its acceptance as a significant addition to the landscape as well as its incorporation into our culture. Bamboo Garden is on the forefront of introducing new and exciting species of clumping bamboo into the United States and promoting their multitude of uses. Though many are new to cultivation, clumping bamboo are gaining recognition for their landscape value as low maintenance alternatives to the larger, more vigorous, running bamboos. Fargesia sp. �Rufa�, with plumes of feather-like foliage, provide a wonderful accent to the small urban garden. Larger species, such as F. robusta, create dense evergreen privacy screens to over 15 feet. The gracefully weeping culms of Borinda angustissima and F. sp. �Jiuzhaigou� support masses of tiny leaves with a delicate, airy texture. Outer culms can be topped to make the plant more compact and upright. New introduction, F. sp. �Scabrida�, has outstanding colors: purple culms outlined by rusty-red culm sheaths contrasting with dark green leaves. Some species, such as F. nitida, are among the most cold hardy bamboo, surviving temperatures as low as negative 20� Fahrenheit. Most thrive in a partial shade environment, but there is enough variety to find a suitable clumping bamboo for just about any need. Our selection have special significance and unique qualities for the home garden or commercial landscape. We hope the pages of our website offer a new perspective of the possibilities and wonderful variety among clumping bamboo. Here is a link that might be useful: Bamboo Gardens

I think I am getting a handle on your instructions for posting photos - here are a few. We built the GH from plans my wife designed - Here I am filling the raised bed with top soil. Then we installed the polycarbonate on the framing. We used all redwood then put on two coats of semi-transparent stain for longer life. We put a storm door and windows on both ends of the GH for venting and view. We also have an auto matic gable fan with vents on a thermostat. We built raised beds outside of the GH for Cold weather corps that grow well in Wyoming (strawberries, asparagus, beets, carrots etc.). We grow wide rows of peas - beans - squash - cucumbers etc. and cover them with a frost blanket in early spring & fall. We get a great crop as long as we watch the weather report and get the plants covered with blankets. Now here we are in winter! This photo was taken a couple of weeks ago. The GH is almost finished except for the electrical and additional raised beds I plan to complete over the winter. Here is our small patch of experimental lettuce & spinach as it looks today, Dec 18th. They just sit there unless the sun comes out and it warms up a bit. Hoped soil heat cables with a polycarbonate lid may change all that and we could actually grow something over the winter? RE: Soil Heating Cables Posted by: karin_mt 4 (My Page) on Sat, Dec 18, 10 at 21:02 WOW! Awesome photos - you have a really nice place there. You guys don't mess around either; it looks like you do things at full tilt! The greenhouse is beautiful. It's so nice and big, which is something I would be quite happy with. Looks like an impressive design and very well built. The outdoor raised beds are lovely too. I like the flat board on top so you can sit there are weed. (Do you have weeds there in Wyoming?) How cold was it in there while it was 24 below outside? My spinach and lettuce are often frozen fairly solid in the morning. Looks like they're goners but then they thaw out and perk up. Kind of miraculous! In addition to winter growing, your soil heat idea will definitely give you a jump start in the spring. Tomatoes will love that. I start mine in March and they grow so fast I have to keep potting them up. By May they are in gallon pots and are like little trees. The ones that I intend to keep in the GH all summer get planted in the ground bed in early May. The outdoor ones go in in early June. Speaking of which, it is dinner time and I have just cooked up the last of our Super San Marzanos and made a fresh batch of pasta. YUM! Thanks for the pictures - really impressive! RE: Soil Heating Cables Posted by: Eric 7b (ekscholl@gmail.com) on Wed, Sep 7, 11 at 21:19 It's about that time again... Thanks for the building description, karin. Which soil heating cables are you guys using? Built-in thermostat or heavy-duty cabling where the thermostat is connected in series? Thanks. Post a Follow-Up Your Name: Your Email Address: Zone (optional): Subject of Posting: Message: Optional Link URL: Name of the Link: Return to the Greenhouses & Garden Structures Forum

I did that last year, no such luck, I think the wattage of christmas lights (filament bulbs, not LEDs) aren't enough to make much of an impact in freezing temperatures. I actually made polyethylene tepees and that still wasn't enough. I think the root structure is the key as they are the transport mechanism for water. It may be that heating the roots may still not allow the water to flow up through the tree, but was intrigued by the study. The under tray cable heating that they use for sand propagation/misting systems is more what I had in mind.

Yes on the primers, and definitely self leveler. I use Mapei Self Leveler Plus. 50 pound bags, 5 quarts of water per bag. Each bag is a 5 gallon bucket full. Works amazing.