Jandey, I agree with you on the results of using the egg methods. I've started cuttings with and without eggs and the results are inconclusive. I have cuttings that rooted with or without the eggs. I had one interesting experiment where I started 2 husky 18" cuttings of the same kind, about the same size, 1 with egg, and 1 without. The one with egg had light and egg. The one without egg had light, moisture and warmth (it was put in a moisture chamber with a heat mat under it). Both were placed near a sunny window so got the same amount of light. The one in the moisture chamber has now rooted and grown a few leaves. The one with the egg has not budged, no roots, no leaves. I'm thinking that the egg cant hurt, as it might act the same as fertilizer once the cutting has roots, but I'm not sure that it speeds up the rooting process more than other conditions such as humidity and warmth. My next experiment is to start 2 same kind cuttings with and without egg, BOTH in the moisture chamber.

I never rely on just one layer of cardboard, at the least tis cardbaord plus spread newspaper sections, and often I'll use two overlapping layers of coardbaord. However, nothing stops bermuda except killing all of it in the area (that is, within 6 feet of the bed). I'm going to resort to using herbicides in a week or so during my vacation to knock back some patches creeping in on garden beds before I'm overrun and hope I can get the well-behaved native grasses to re-establish instead.

I believe that holes will not be necessary. Newspaper and cardboard will allow the moisture to soak through if there is enough moisture to soak through. So you might need to water more if there is not much rain. Holes, in my opinion, are not a good idea. Oh, another thing, it seemed to me that, if doing a slope, then I should start at the bottom and work up. I tried to think like a couch grass, and I decided that it would send its stolons up the slope. So I layered the newpapers/cardboard in such a way that those stolons would not strike a gap. I still have waaaay more area to do and am using different methods, but only because the newspaper/cardboard approach isn't perfect for all places. For instance, just down from the front steps is a couch-infested flat area. One Winter I planned an attack; raided the recycyling yard wearing a false moustache (you aren't supposed to climb in there) and laid sopping newspapers and cardboard all over the place. Covered in leaves which I had been collecting all Autumn (a hobby of mine) and sat back and waited for the End Of The Couch. Trouble was, it was somewhat of a trap for passing humans so I had to remove it all and re-think my method. (It became veeeery slippery.)

With any decent soil, inground plantings require very little in the way of supplemental fertilization - they get what they need from the soil. And this is even more the case if you mulch routinely with any sort of organic mulch. But with any plants growing in baskets, planters or containers of any sort, you will need to fertilize regularly. The reason for this is that potting soil is not 'real' soil and contains minimal nutrients. And the need for such frequent watering of these containers in summer will leach out any nutrients that may be present. Any sort of all-purpose liquid or water soluble fertilizer will work perfectly well for this purpose -your houseplant fertilizer should be fine. Typically for containers the recommendation is "weekly, weakly", meaning a half strength solution of fert every 7 days but many container gardeners water in fertilizer with every watering at a quarter strength or less. A controlled release fertilizer - like Osmocote - applied early in the season when the containers are planted up can also suffice and remove the need to fertilize so frequently with a water soluble product.