I agree with the pinching, but only to the degree that you could remove only the growing tip of the stem. Your plant is struggling to build a root system now, and needs all the photosynthesizing machinery it has, because that is where the plant's real food, sugar, is made. The plant then uses the sugar (photosynthate) to grow more leaves and roots. The purple underleaf surfaces may or may not be typical of the species. What are you using for soil? If you're using coir or there is a significant amount of coir in the soil, it's probably being caused by what is referred to as an antagonistic deficiency (of phosphorous) because of the high K content of the coir. Anything (cultural conditions) that slows growth without reducing the plants ability to carry on photosynthesis can also cause a build-up of a purple pigment (anthocyanin) in the foliage. Have you fertilized? With what and what strength? Al

..... appears the soil is to water-retentive and compacted. Roots need oxygen to function normally. If the soil doesn't hold enough oxygen or you over-water, The plant's internal water pressure drops, causing loss of turgidity and wilting. The best way to tell if the/a soil is 'completely dry' is by using a tell. Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al

Matt - that one plant tolerates what's killing others in the same pot is something less than a reason to think it's appropriate. Your problem is likely a combination of soil choice and watering before the plant really needs watering. There ARE some things you can do with conventional containers to reduce water retention, but that's not a conventional container. Reducing water retention and a little less exuberance from the quarter of the plant tender would likely go a long way toward at least changing the pot/soil/watering habit combination from potentially deadly to something the plant will tolerate. You might find this helpful. Al

I can’t see any perlite in your 511 mix, and the bark pieces look big to me...are you sure you followed the right recipe? Your FLF is likely still in shock from the full repotting. Usually, unless the plant is really struggling, its recommended to hold off on repotting until the summer months. That said, I think you have a fighting chance. Make sure you keep them somewhere with lots of bright light. And be patient, it might take a few days to recover from a full repotting.