Darn! Wireworms are much more difficult to control than cutworms. Granular insecticides worked into the soil seem to be the only thing that works according to most of the literature. It is one of the cases where heavy spring tilling before planting is also advised. And planting some potatoes as a trap crop for them is another recommendation. Did you find many of them? There is a trick I read about once - never needed it so can't guarantee it but maybe others here have tried it - cutting potatoes in half and staking them in among the tomato plants cut side down. They are apparently drawn to the potatoes and you can kill them then. PDF article from Utah State Univ. Extension linked below has a great deal of info about them. I hope it helps. Good luck. Dave Here is a link that might be useful: Wireworms

#2 is Impatiens capensis, the orange jewelweed. http://wisplants.uwsp.edu/scripts/detail.asp?SpCode=IMPCAP Its squished stems are supposed to alleviate poison ivy; the two are often found growing together.

moonview, I won't go as far as to say that it is killing your plants; but certainly the leaves of plants react in the way you observe when they are in constant or regular contact with other elements in the land- or interior- scape. But lest I get accused of straying from the topic, my preference is not to mulch annuals - the colorful plants we replace 3 or 4 times a year, to remind ourselves of the passage of time. Let me qualify that by saying that some other conditions are attached. The first is accurate spacing. When done well, the ground (or mulch) is not visible when the plants grow out. Following from that, it is essential to provide the conditions which promote the rapid growing out of the young plants. The first is proper tilth. The most useful tool I have used for this is a mason's trowel. Then there is fertilization. "Osmocote" (no endorsement intended) works very well for the whole cycle if enough of it is incorporated. The annual bed is the only area where I'd apply a chemical (fungicide) preventatively; because if a fungus takes hold, it is a nightmare to correct. Watering is the most demanding practice. I remember my grandmother's advice - "water the flower garden in the morning and the kitchen garden in the afternoon". It is better to err on the side of "Less" - but not by too much. I have to agree with the writer who has bemoaned the misapplication of mulch in the landscape - in spite of the good advice repeated by those who have taken the pains to learn. It is my considered opinion that mulching has been cheapened by those uncaring operators who use it to cover up their multitude of sins; chief of which is indifferent weed control. Applying glyphosate immediately before putting down mulch is a waste of time and money. When done 10 days beforehand, it will translocate to all parts of the treated weeds which will continue to die even after the mulch is applied. It is worth it to treat the mulch with a good pre-emergent product - one that inhibits root-cell division and stays in place. Weed seeds are introduced by wind and other agents into the mulch layer. The pre-emergent application targets these.

Google "giant duckweed" images and see which plant looks right to you. There seem to be several plants that share that common name. Instead of chemicals, maybe find something that likes to eat it--tilapia? ducks?