Organic Irradication of Trumpeter Vine
mrsfrodo
14 years ago
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gamebird
14 years agoRelated Discussions
removing suckers left behind from trumpet
Comments (7)Three years since my eradication of the original trumpet vine, skinny arms of the giant underground octopus are still popping up in my lawn and gardens, thirty or forty feet away. It tried to take off my siding and break into my basement windows via the window wells. One particularly robust branch sprouted up through a tiny crack in my concrete gutter trench, and simply by growing thicker managed to split the concrete slab. My hatred for this stuff is epic. I also still shake my fist at my former neighbor, who planted it among some shrubs along our property line and refused to let me remove it when it got out of control because "it attracts hummingbirds". Lots of plants attract hummingbirds, lady. Pick one that can't lift up your house and toss it aside....See MoreQueen's wreath vine or Mexican flame vine?
Comments (12)I have a Mexican Flame Vine in a pot that I bring in for the winter. I don't think they are winter hardy in the DFW area. I wish they were, as mine doesn't bloom nearly enough under these conditions, but it does bloom for a while. Queen's Wreath is one of those borderline hardy/not hardy plants in the DFW area. I haven't grown Queen's Wreath at my house, because my trumpet vine won't let me - won't give up the space, but we have one at work. It's growing on a fence in full sun sort of out in the open. It's on a chain link fence near a corner of the property, that divides our property from an apartment complex, with a concrete wall perpendicular to the chain link part. There is grass on the apartment side of the fence, and a mulched herb garden on our side, with a concrete parking lot on the opposite side of the concrete wall. It's kind of hard to describe. The reason I'm boring you with all this is because I can't decide if it's a protected spot or not. It may be shielded from the wind by the apartments and that wall, but it's also very much in the open being on the chain link fence. Anyway, this Queen's Wreath has come back the last few years, and is spectacular in the late summer. I think it might be worth a try. It will die to the ground in the winter. Mexican Flame Vine and Queen's Wreath have very different looks. Both are good for nectaring insects, and the Queen's Wreath attracts hummers, too. Sally...See MoreNorway Maples Vs. Vines! Pics Included
Comments (5)Hello TJ, The following article contains instructions to remove invasive Norway Maple from a woodland, using a 'stepped' approach: "What to do if you suspect a Natural Area is being invaded by Exotic Trees: It is not easy to contemplate removal of trees as part of sensitive environmental management, however the fact is that invasive exotics are causing significant environmental disruption worldwide, resulting in the loss of biodiversity and ecological functioning to natural ecosystems. First, a survey of the site should be conducted identifying remaining native species of trees and shrubs, and invading exotics such as Norway Maple, European Buckhorn, Tatarian and Amur Honeysuckle. Where there are only a few exotics saplings mixed with native species, these invaders could likely be removed without causing any disruption. The problem arises when the forest canopy is mostly exotic, since removing all of them at once could cause serious problems, including opening the site to further invasions of exotics and soil erosion. Removals around any existing native trees would be a start, as well as removing all exotic seedlings, and saplings where larger trees form the canopy. Where large exotic trees exist, removing the lower limbs to allow light to the forest floor is an initial step to consider where complete removal would open up the forest canopy too severely. If native tree seedlings are not naturally establishing, then planting is called for. As the native forest grows, further thinning of the exotics can take place, until they and the seed source is eventually eliminated. Through this process, a return to a native forest association should occur without opening the forest canopy. Since the ground flora may recover under the lighter shade than Norway Maple provides, it is important that it not be further impacted by invading plants of open conditions that would occur if the canopy were opened too quickly." One word of caution: Norway Maples put out "phytotoxins" - which are chemicals that are toxic to most native plants. It is not just the shade, but the phytotoxins which prevent the establishment of native understory, shrub and groundcover layers below Norway Maples - even with thinned branches overhead. My neighbours and I have wasted thousands of dollars trying to plant under Norways in our ravine. The majority die - even when we've created elaborate watering systems to compensate for the Norways (I know - defeats the whole point of planting natives in the first place!). We've had some success by replacing large areas of soil when we plant - but we've recently learned the phytotoxins are in the leaves as well - so those plants just take longer to die. Not to discourage you - it only seems to relentlessly kill plants in some locations - not all. But if anyone has any information on NM phytotoxins - and what to do about it so that we have better success establishing a native layer (ANY native layer - after a few years of NM we have only three layers: 100+ year old oaks, complete NM understory,rapidly eroding bare sandy soil with a few still hanging-on hardcore natives (toad lilly, trillium)) - I'd really appreciate hearing about it! Here is a link that might be useful: Norway Maple: Reassessing the threat to natural areas...See Morewanted: have: perennials from a brooklyn organic garden
Comments (0)Except for some of the Rose of Sharon, these plants are fully grown plants with fully formed root systems. I have already potted many of the plants and want to get them out of my garden ASAP. I would love to exchange these for other perennials, especially for aquatic plants for my new pond. I live near the Brooklyn Museum. # Pink Rose of Sharon # Lemon balm # Creeping Jenny /Lysimachia nummularia (a.k.a. Moneywort) # Phalaris (a.k.a. Ribbon Grass, Reed Canary Grass) # Perilla (a.k.a. Red Shiso, Perilla frutescens 'Akashiso' - when they come up in May) # Lysimachia clethroides (white) # Burgundy daylilies with yellow centers. Name?? # Dicentra Formosa (a.k.a. Small Bleeding Hearts) # Helianthus Fore Pleno (a.k.a. Perennial Sunflower) # Tall pink phlox # Several kinds of tall & medium high fall asters, lavender colored # Purple Loosestrife # Two large forsythia bushes # Orange Trumpet Vine /Campsis # Two potted peach trees, one 2 ft. high, the other 4" high. # Acontium Napellus/ Monkshood # Aegopodium podagraria âÂÂVariegatumâ (a.k.a. Snow on the Mountain/BishopâÂÂs Weed/Goutweed)...See MoreOkiedawn OK Zone 7
14 years agosusanlynne48
11 years agochickencoupe
11 years agoOkiedawn OK Zone 7
11 years agosusanlynne48
11 years agoOkiedawn OK Zone 7
11 years agofaerybutterflye
11 years agomswillis5
11 years agosusanlynne48
11 years agoOkiedawn OK Zone 7
11 years agomswillis5
11 years ago
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Okiedawn OK Zone 7