Your tomato has a nutrient deficiency for some reason. A soil that is too cold can cause this as well as a soil pH not in the range it should be, as well as too much of something else that inhibits uptake of other necessary nutrients. It may be related to the "fertilizers" or it may not.

I fertilized them last night with a higher concentration of 3/4 percent fish emulsion and seaweed and this morning they are even worse. I am thinking after doing tons of reading I am actually keeping them too moist and they are stressed/cannot uptake what they need in nutrients or water. What do you think?

Have you looked at what you are spraying? What is it's ratio. Since differing companies use different formulas I can't tell but most are not balanced.

It is a 1/3 mixture of the following:
Organic seaweed concentrate 0-4-4
Organic fish fertilizer 2-4-1
We are using this once a week.

The "fertilizer" you are using may be contributing to the problem. Some of the symptoms of excess Phosphorus available to a plant is a purplish leaf color, stunted growth, and curling leaves. Many people way over fertilize their plants.

Can a deficiency be cause by and excess of nutrients being given to the plant because everything I read states that a purple color in the leaves is a LACK of phosphorus. Could it be that even at that dilute rate that it is still to concentrated and causing the plants to not be able to take up what is there.

Add some nitrogen to your fertilizer mix and sprinkle about a 1/4 teaspoon, the small spoon size, of epsom salts around your baby.

Some plants both the lack of and the excess of has similar expression.

When you way 1/3rd of what is your mixture. 1/3 a cup in a gallon?? If you are using undiluted mix that could be part of the problem. But tomatoes do like the epsom salts just use in small quanities and make certain to wash your hands and equipment well after using as for some people it has a strong lactative effect.

Some of the symptoms of excess Phosphorus available to a plant is a purplish leaf color, stunted growth, and curling leaves.

I'll go down the phosphorus path with you, but let's talk deficiency rather than excess. Here's a pretty good description that I found:

"Phosphorus. These phosphorus-deficient leaves (see Figure 5) show some necrotic spots. As a rule, phosphorus deficiency symptoms are not very distinct and thus difficult to identify. A major visual symptom is that the plants are dwarfed or stunted. Phosphorus deficient plants develop very slowly in relation to other plants growing under similar environmental conditions but without phosphorus deficiency. Phosphorus deficient plants are often mistaken for unstressed but much younger plants. Some species such as tomato, lettuce, corn and the brassicas develop a distinct purpling of the stem, petiole and the under sides of the leaves. Under severe deficiency conditions there is also a tendency for leaves to develop a blue-gray luster. In older leaves under very severe deficiency conditions a brown netted veining of the leaves may develop."
I got that from here.

Excess phosphorus will compete with micronutrient uptake, particularly zinc in most plants, and usually show up as a deficiency of that nutrient. (I'm too lazy to look up a reference for that part)

When I spoke of a 1/3 mixture I meant that it is 1/3 the concentration of the recc. mixture rate.

As far as deficiency or excess, what would you guess that it is as both tend to show the same symptoms.
I guess since this problem came about while I was using my fertilizer program then I will cut that down a little.

Your picture looks like text book phosphorus deficiency of tomato. P deficiency and P excess don't look the same. It does not look like nitrogen is deficient or excessive. It doesn't look like sulfur or magnesium deficiency either. If you had an analysis on hand that showed and Mg or S deficiency or your plant showed symptoms of Mg and S deficiency, epsom salts would be a good idea. Otherwise, you're increasing salinity without a good reason to do so (Although tomatoes can take a pretty decent salt load, but why push it without a reason to do so?). I would throw a little 0-45-0 on top of the mix, followed with irrigation. It should eventually perk up.

I thank you for your input. I am curious, since they are still growing and putting out leaves is this not as bad as I think. I am still going to address the issue but what is the severity of my problem? Also what is a good source for a P of 45 (wow). Travis

It may not be a deficiency of Phosphorus in the soil. It may be excess Nitrogen, or something else, that can cause the plant to not take up the P that is in the soil which causes the plant to exhibit P deficiency. Or it may be tthe soil is too cold for the plant which can also keep the plnat from uptaking the P that is there.

what is a good source for a P of 45
Triple superphosphate. It is available at garden centers and retail nurseries. If you want to avoid synthetics, you can use rock phosphate, which comes in flavors ranging form 20% to 40% P.

Ok, I am going to try to find some rock phosphate tomorrow and put some on a couple of the plants. I agree with my reading that the soil temp can cause an issue but I think mine is ok as it is 65-70 in the room almost constantly. One other issue I might have in talking to some of the garden centers is maybe I am watering them to heavily when they need it thus causing the plant roots to suffocate and not take up the nutrients or water that they need.

Do you guys think I can expect these plants to die if not treated just perfect and soon?

Keep in mind that rock phosphate will take months before the soil bacteria can make it available to your plants.
soil temperatures may or may not be the same as room temperature depending on the temperature of the water used, what the plants are sitting on, etc.
If cold tap water is used to water that can drop the soil temperature quite a bit and if the pots are sitting on a surface that is cooler than the ambient room temperature that can also cause the soil temperaure to drop just as your body temperature drops when you immerse yourself in a body of water.

Good to know on the phosphate! I guess Ill go the other route so it can immediately be available. As a note they are on a table up off of the concrete and we use room temp water, but I will make sure it is warmer and check the soil temp when I get home.
Do you think I can expect these plants to die if not treated just perfect and soon?

As a side note, when I spoke to a couple of the garden centers around my place when I told them that I used a diluted fertilizer on them after they had emerged their first true leaves they commented that they would not fertilize until they were in the ground. That would put me in much worse shape at this point and it irritates me why the opinions run the wide gammut here. There is definetely something wrong with my plants and with that there is A solution and it is not ones that completely contradict one another. I trust my sources here a little more but it is very very frustrating. Thanks for all the advice everyone and feel free to keep it coming. So far this production run is not fitting my perfectionist mentality.

If you don't over or under water, treat the obvious deficiency, and use good horticultural practices, the plants should be just fine. Don't over think it.
So far this production run is not fitting my perfectionist mentality.
If you're looking for perfect, plants aren't the way to go. They are part of a living system, a good deal of which is out of your control. Unless, maybe, you get into silk flowers. ;)