Everyone that specializes in a particular type of plant THINKS their plant is markedly different from every other - it isn't. I hear this same claim at least once per week on one of the forums. The fact that you think the roots of plumeria have a unique growth habit is well wide of the mark. They actually look remarkably like most Moraceous plants, which would include ficus and mulberry. As well, plants are remarkably the same in their likes and dislikes, and what a plant will tolerate is not a good measure of it's preferences. I freely admit to not being an expert on plumerias, but I do consider myself to have a great deal of expertise when it comes to container culture and repotting/root pruning. I've been studying it, practicing it, and teaching it for many years, so I'm pretty sure I have a distinct advantage when it comes to discussions that involve container culture and long term maintenance of woody material in containers. Too, I'm not generalizing in my offerings, either, I'm being painfully specific. Plumerias are no different than any other plant when grown in conventional container culture, even if you don't realize it yet, and introducing a lot of variables and what ifs to the conversation simply muddies the water. We're losing focus because of the new supply of variables introduced with each of your offerings. Allowing the fact that roots USUALLY emerge only from the basal end of the cutting, it's a simple matter of removing enough soil to see where the roots begin to gauge whether or not it's safe to cut at any given point below where the roots emerge. That should be a part of every repot anyway - so the grower knows how deep to pot the plant. I'm not saying this in a mean or sarcastic way, but I can tell from your description of your version of root pruning that what you have been doing is much closer to potting up than repotting. Root pruning concentrates on removing roots in the center of the root mass (think of a hungry beaver gnawing its way up through the center of the root mass to just below the trunk). All heavy lateral roots are kept (plumbing), but at some point they are pruned immediately distal to a finer root that will do the plant some good. Finally, I never said what you or anyone else does is wrong - that's not how I roll. My only interest is that people have the information they need to decide what is or isn't right or wrong for them. In this particular case, the facts ARE black and white and are what should be used in the balance when making decisions. Tight roots affect growth and vitality. Period, There is no getting around that fact. Potting up - shaving the outside of the root ball and pruning a root here and there will PARTIALLY restore a plant's potential for growth, but won't offer the best results. Repotting and an accompanying root pruning physiologically rejuvenates the root system and restores the plant to its full potential for growth/vitality within the limits of other cultural factors that have the potential to be limiting. Shades of grey are only introduced when something other than the plants well-being takes precedence. Examples - I want to see if being root bound makes the plant bloom better, repotting would be too difficult, I would have to give up an afternoon ..... These are things we weigh in the balance and are the shades of gray, but notice how none of them involve the plant's well being. If people want to consider allowing their plant go for another year before repotting or potting up, they should have the information they need to make that decision. Someone telling them it's ok when it isn't, isn't helpful to their growing experience. The fact is, if your plant is rootbound to the point that you can lift the plant from the container with roots and soil intact, the condition of the roots is limiting the plant, and it can't get better without the grower being proactive. I've helped hundreds & hundreds of people turn their root bound plants completely around by way of a full repot. There is simply no basis to believe that plumeria are any different in how they respond to tight roots or to root pruning. If you think about it for a moment, you'll realize that the suggestion that plumeria are unique among all plants in that regard even sounds far fetched. I'm more than happy to let the real plumeria experts answer the questions about subtleties that pertain to the plant and various cultivars, the little tricks that really ARE unique to the plant, but when it comes to the physiology of woody plants and their care under container culture, I'm well-qualified to offer definitive help, in fact, I get paid for it. Al Oh - about Laura's plumerias - she does very well for herself from what I've seen - a big heart, too. You suggest her pots are too small - not true unless she allows her plants to become root bound. It might be EASIER on her in that she wouldn't need to repot so often, but that's where the shades of gray come in. She understands the facts and is deciding what's best for Laura, based on those facts, which is the best course in my estimation. There is no inhibition of growth or reduction in vitality associated with a small pot unless the roots are tight in it - unless we drift afield further and start talking about other cultural influences like temperatures, which wouldn't help this conversation.

TREI, I'll try to answer your specific questions. 1) Yes, use a scissors and cut off all the fully formed leaves about 1/4 inch from the cutting (don't rip them off by hand). You want to leave the very few developing leaves at the tip of the cutting though. Taking off the leaves keeps the cutting from drying up until it roots. 2) Cut off the buds (inflorescence). Most everything I've read supports the theory that developing buds in many cases take energy away from the cutting and as a result rooting can be prolonged, difficult, or the cutting may refuse to root. 3) My understanding is that these should root if given the proper treatment. I might be tempted to cut the 3-foot one in half. It might be more stabile in the pot this way. 4) Can't answer that. It may be advisable to clean up the cut since shredded plant tissues may be prone to rotting which could spread. Only a guess though. If you cut, make sure the cuttings dry for a week or two before rooting. 5) Don't know how hot your weather is, but I would probably place cuttings in a shady, airy place to callous over. In sun I'd worry about stem burn. I think a week or two is probably adequate in your dry climate. But I've left cuttings sitting in my basement for months (cool and dry) and they've rooted! I don't think they should change color or appear real wrinkled (unless they got cooked in your plastic bag). Hope this helps some.

Depends how big the trees are and how big you want them to get. One could end up growing more vigorously than the other, so you could end up with a lopsided tree. I say tree because as they grow it will look like one big tree. Is there going to be cement or something at the bottom of the tire to prevent roots from growing into the ground? Since it floods I would mound the soil up, then place the tire on top. Or you could plant them somewhere where it doesn't flood. It's your call. You could get some cinder blocks and place them on there sides in a square fitting under the tire so you can't see them. Place the tire on top and fill with a fast draining soil. Then fill in the sides. Or you could build a raised garden bed, then you could plant a "forest" of plumerias. Just use cinder blocks and cement to keep them in place. You could find many tutorials for step by step instructions on how to do this on youtube. Hope this helps. Good luck :)

Hi, I have a similar problem. I have had my plumeria for three years; it was growing beautifully... until now. It appears as though the problem might have been caused by a bird who enjoyed sitting on one of the 2 main branches. It, apparently, pecked at my tree and it began rotting from that open wound down. There are 3 smaller branches that are healthy and unaffected. They have been cut off and re-potted. I cut the branch down to where it is healthy again, but should I cut it more... to the spot where this branch joins the main trunk, or do I keep it cut where it is? I'm wondering what would be most beneficial for re-growth in the future. Help!!! Thanks!