Hi. You need to think what caused the rot. One of the commonest causes in cultivation is too low temperature , not enough light. What I would do is cut away ALL the dead tissue with a sterile knife, wash the whole plant in a mild chlorine solution - don't forget to rinse off the chlorine with sterile or boiled water - then leave the wounds to dry for 24 hours. I wouldn't treat them with anything. Get a large jamjar or similar, quarter fill it with fine gravel and add a couple of tablespoons of water, not enough to reach the top of the gravel. Sterilize the whole by microwaving for about 3 minutes. Don't let the water boil away. When it has cooled, pop your plant into the jar (its ICU)and seal the lid.It should fog up. Make sure it is not in contact with any base water. Some people use sphagnum moss, but unless there are live roots, there's not a lot of point. Keep it very warm but out of direct sunlight. In a couple of months ( if you are lucky - your plant is critically ill) you will see new roots forming.

Hi there. I was reading the news just now and decided this forum is a much less terrifying way to start the day lol The watering method heart_in_bloom described works well especially if you are using a combination of soil and perlite. If the pots are light, that means the plants are using the water, or that water has evaporated and so the plant needs more water. Adenium seedlings should be treated like tropical plants, not succulents---they require a lot of water as they grow while at the same time, they also rot easily if left soaking too long. Is that pumice you are using? What sort of mix have you transplanted them into? The more information you give the more efficient this process will go. What's the ambient dat and night temperature? Are they outside in full sun or inside by the window? I can see several seedlings with dried out leaves that also have deformations on the trunk. I'd isolate those and keep an eye on them. P

Thank you edzone9, the_first_kms2 and gaguy. I'm happy to hear that all is not lost... yet. I have been trying to patiently wait for any change. I want to believe that it's looking better, but it's hard to tell if something is different when you stare at it everyday. :/ edzone9- thank you for your advice. :) the_first_kms2- when I noticed the tip, my first thought was "No wonder this was on sale". My next thought was that it got 'frostbite' from being shipped in the belly of a cargo plane. I came here to the forums and learned enough to worry that it was black tip. You are right about the heat source too. All the cuttings and seedlings are located in the sunniest part of my apartment, which also happens to be the warmest, but no direct heat source. I read the forum enough to know that I could push my zone and grow plumeria in New Mexico, but it wasn't until after i had everything in pots that I found the threads regarding rooting in water/Gatorade bottles. It's starting to be warm enough during the day that I'm willing to take them outside for a few hours, but that's the best I can do right now. gaguy- thank you for your pictures. Makes me feel a lot better if I eventually do have to cut the tip.

undertheoaksgardener, I really like the idea of watering the hosta with fungicide. I see in the Hosta Library (Pests and Diseases section) that Cleary 3335 is recommended. Unfortunately, being in Canada, many powerful pesticides and fungicides are not available anymore. I travel to the States now and then, I will put fungicide on the list to purchase. Also, we are in lock down. A nearby nursery is only offering curbside pickup. So I can't investigate what products they have available. But I will persevere and purchase a good product later this year. Love the quote by J.C. Raulston! It is so very true! Thanks for the encouragement djacobz and liquidfeet. I am glad that your June and Liberty have made a come back. If I coud get the fungicide, I would apply it to the leaves and roots of plants that I suspect have some rot. Our spring can be very wet and with our clay type soil and tree roots that compact the soil, I get rot on some of my hosta. I know it because plant growth can be terribly slow (and depressing). Years ago I suspected rot on my F. Hyacinthina. I dug it out, cut off the rot and bleached it (Bruce Banyai's method). I separated it into 5 or 6 section. All grew well. But that's a lot of work! So my plan now: try doing a weak bleach soak for the second time. Allow the roots and crown to dry somewhat. I'll plant a few pots----and cross my fingers. I've discovered that I really love large hostas and large potted hostas. I do love smaller hosta---they are so cute! But the large leaved hostas are my ultimate favorite! So it's disappointing to have to separate this hosta into smaller pots. But in this case, it's probably the best thing to do.