We grow them. Hubby starts them inside, usually in early April. We had over 70 plants last year. Grew them one per container in 5 gallon buckets like we grow all of our veg. Here's part of one day's harvest: (Yes, that's asparagus in September. It was a strange growing year.) My favorites are the big red cowhorn shaped ones. There's a photo in the attached link - show next to Floodthelast's foot for scale. I usually have fresh peppers with every meal, every day in the summer when they are producing. There's no way I could go back to grocery story quality or price. We are too used to eating or putting up our veg within 24 hours of harvesting. Lynda Here is a link that might be useful: My favorite big red cowhorn type peppers

Cam, If there are collector's varieties among those, then you can charge more. The hellebores, hostas, daylilies and bearded iris are probably going to be the most interesting for potential buyers. Have you looked at eBay to see what the prices are there? I'm a plant retailer and can guess at some prices for you, but you'll probably need to sell slightly lower than retail prices in order to move the plants quickly. Do you think these will fit in 1 gallon or 3 gallon size pots? Since they've been in the ground awhile (assuming), then a shovel full is probably closer to 3 gallon. That's a large size that is difficult to come by at retail stores for perennials. The wholesale price on a hellebore is really expensive for a 1 gallon pot. Do you know what strain those are? colors? Swirling Skirts is VERY expensive compared to the "Lady" varieties. Daylily prices are all over the place. Same with hostas. Do you know if she has any special named varieties? If you don't have the names, then you'll probably want to just go with an average price by looking at the big box store nurseries for comparison. If you've got the names, drop me an email and I'll do a price lookup for you. Cameron

Hi evaglades:0) It's just me jumping on the pH issue at this time. I am not syaing I am sure, but that it is a most common cause and along with other cultural issues, but not the fertilizers fault which stresses has those nutrients. It rather seems to me that some will blame the actual shortage of a certain element/ nutrient and suggest using it as applications when it is already provided, instead of understanding and or getting to know the actual root of the problem. It is called bandaiding and overloading. To illustrate: My Lilacs were producing no blooms for years. I was told by many, even nusery professionals that all I needed to do was add Super Phosphate and that would solve my problems. I did and that did not work. I then asked a certain friend of mine who is a horticultural expert/teacher and he asked me if I had checked the pH and I never did. Liliacs are known to love high pH soils, above 7.0 and the pH in my soil was only 5.6. I added lime as suggested and the next flowering season my lilacs blloms more than you could know for the first time and ever since. HUGE blossom all over my trees. But also, because of such a boost in the phosphate once it became available, the lilac leaves turned very light green and stunted while focusing on bud formation. Being a landscaper, I should of known this, but needed a reminder. Now all is ok. Same can be had for Fragrans Osmanthis and Hoya: They love sweet soil, and I was feeding them water and vinegar thinking it was good for them too. No blooms for years. I talked to the same friend and he said to add lime to my soil and I stopped the vinegar treatment, and boy did they take off and with blooms. It is true. In order for our plants to perform to their best potential, many keys have to come into play. I am not going to mention a great soilless mix at this time, but I will say that pH plays a major role before your fertilizer does in many instances and we should all know what our plants require in this respect as a very important factor. I got to the root of the problem with my citrus trees, many of which are described here and did not bandaid it with adding more of a certain nutrient that most likey would of been overkill. I first have to know what the pH of the water I am providing them is. I can show you green plants because of this, but I think many have already seen them, and the lack of issues many have by just adding a nutrient here and there. I no longer have to add any one particluar nutrient as long as the fertilizer is well balanced, required pH is met, and watering practices are under control. Yes, pH does play a crucial, important, and vital role to our citrus, and that is something all should check before any type of one particular nutrient is recommended/added, especially when the fertilizers being used by many here already have more than enough of the major and minor nutrients that these beautiful trees require for optimal health that many are saying their trees are deficient in. Checking pH can save a lot of time and possible undue stress on our plants with over loading with certain nutrients already available in the soil if we make teh conditions right for teh roots to have access to them. Did you kow that when our container plants sit in temps of below 50 on a continual basis, NO nutrients are taking up by our trees, especially Nitrogen and Iron/ Is someone going to suggest one spray their leaves with Iron or feed their plants with more when COLD is the limiting factor? It is very beneficial to know this, and since have a good relationship with a grower who specializes in growing Four Winds Growers trees which come to everyone very healthy and deep green, and it took a lot for me to understand this and the importance of using vinegar, lime, gypsum, acidifying products which is something I easily find enjoyable to share with many here and yet can be very detremental to our plants or make all the difference in the world. these products are not ones to be taken lightly along with our fertilizer use. It took years for me to get it right, to keep my trees from having the issues many here describe, and I feel it unfair to not address what has helped mine, or what I have learned from many knowledgable members here who took the time to help me understand this:-) Hope your trees are doing ok too. Please excuse any spelling errors, since I have no time to go back and proof read them. Have a fantastic Friday;-) Thank you Mike

Janice: According to Clemson I was within the planting window but towards the end ( I am in the central area). I planted April 15th (planting for my area is April 5-25). But you do have a good point about planting earlier. I usually like to plant at least some early (in March) under row covers to get earlier fruit. I do know that this year fruiting (and also my leaf yellowing problem that seems somehow linked to fruiting) is at least a few weeks later than normal. But I chalked that up to the high-nitrogen chicken manure which caused a lot of green leafy growth at the expense of fruit. Two years ago I grew peppers with great success, I've tried squash and cucumbers in these beds 2 or 3 years ago which both failed miserably. But I have added a lot of lime and fertilizer since then. My pH in these beds 2 years ago was 4.0 -5.5 so one would not expect squash to do well. Last two or three years these beds have had tomatoes and peppers, because I care the most about tomatoes and wanted to put them where there was the most sun. Thanks so much for your time. It's been very helpful. :)