ZD makes tons of basals. Mine was like a bamboo patch. with 20 or so 8-foot canes after a few years. The old basals, insofar as they are semi-horizontal, will bloom heavily on laterals, and this will provide the early bloom. Then, if you let the new basals grow and bloom, they will prolong the spring flush into mid-summer, blooming at the top. Then any later bloom will come at the tips of late-starting basals. In other words, ZD does not repeat very well on the old canes, but the new canes help to compensate for that. At least, that is how mine behaved. I fear your arbor is too small for such a lusty grower. But I'm sure you want to give her a fair trial. If you want to contain growth, here are some things to try: Withhold water and fertilizer starting at midsummer, because you aren't going to get much late bloom anyway. Let the new canes grow out and bloom. Don't prune them out in summer, because the plant will just replace them. Next spring, cut some of the canes back to various lengths (2'-4'-6'). These will make blooming laterals at the various levels for the spring flush. After a few years, when you have too many canes, begin removing 1/3 of the canes, older ones, at the base every year. I would do this after the old canes have finished their spring bloom.

Hi there and welcome. Brugs are easier than most plants I grow. They come back from almost anything except freezing. The good news is your brug might still have time to bloom this fall before frost. Mine aren't blooming right now anyway, they are waiting for cooling temps. Just to be sure, more sun in August in Texas doesn't mean full sun on the southwest side of the house, but something less like bright sun filtered by a tree or another plant.

Here is my two cents worth. I have bought a few daylilies from the Lily Auction. First look where they are coming from. I understand southern growers are apt to have the dreaded "rust". You don't want that. I then look how much shipping costs are. I alway try to buy several at a time to save on shipping. I also look at his past record. He/she should have a near 100% approval rating. I am in Zone 7 North Ga. but pretty close to Zone 6. We get weather no colder than -5. I keep my lilies mulched with mini pine bark. I would buy from any of the states around me, Alabama, TN., Mississippi, but I also buy from further north, Ohio, PA, etc. I bought two from abundadantlilies or something like that and he was great to deal with. When you win answer their email immediately and send your money soon. If you have a PayPal account, that's even better. Good luck. Sarah

Jo, I don't winter sow tomatoes, so someone else will have to suggest how you deal with them now that they've sprouted. No, your tomatoes are not confused---they are performing exactly as they are biologically designed to peform. Tomato seeds don't "know" when to sprout intellectually, but rather they simply sprout when the soil temperatures reach the right range, assuming they have enough moisture to induce germination along with the soil temp. Since it has warmed up early this year, the right temps for seed germination are a bit earlier than usual. To the tomatoes, it doesn't really matter if the calendar says December or Febuary or April....they will germinate when the soil is warm enough, provided it is moist. (In very, very dry soil they either won't germinate or they'll germinate and die soon thereafter.) If they were mine and I had them in vented containers, I'd leave the containers closed if the venting was cooling them off well enough. If I thought it was too hot and sunny, I'd open then up during the heat of the day and close them up a couple of hours before sunset so enough heat would build up inside to keep them warm all night long in case the temps border on being too cold. Remember that your containers are like little mini-greenhouses protecting the young seedlings. If I had wintersown tomatoes that had sprouted this early, I wouldn't move them inside but I'd throw a heavy blanket over the containers on nights the temperatures are going to get down near freezing. Moving them inside would sort of negate one of the benefits of wintersown seeds---that the plants are well-adapted to outdoor temperatures and light levels. Once you start moving them inside, you lose that advantage. I hope someone who actually does wintersows tomatoes can answer you questions about what to do with them because it is easy to say what I'd do with them, but since I don't wintersow them, it is a hypothetical answer to your question. I only wintersow a few flowers and herbs, generally only those that need cold stratification and, since they need cold stratification they don't germinate too early anyway or, if they do, they are pretty cold-hardy types by nature. You might check the wintersown website to see what they suggest. Dawn Here is a link that might be useful: Wintersown.org