Sungold tomato...serious wilt issue!

14 years ago

Poor tomato! It's trying desperately to produce, but it has a wilt problem! It's supposed to be resistent to Verticillium and Fusarium wilts; what could the problem be? It started from the leaves nearest the ground turning a slight yellow; then one side of the plant began to wilt; then more leaves went yellow (very little spotting at all)...any ideas or thoughts? This is the only plant/variety affected out of 10 plants. Should I treat the others with anything preventative? Thank you :)

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Okiedawn OK Zone 7

14 years ago

Sharon,

I'll preface this by saying that it can be very difficult to diagnose a tomato problem even when you are standing there and staring at the plant. To make a diagnosis of a plant one cannot see is almost impossible.

Many tomato disease, insect and physiological problems can cause yellowing leaves and some leaf wilt. Both yellowing leaves and wilt are merely signs of stress of some sort and, in and of themselves, generally are not enough of a clue upon which to make a diagnosis. It is common for older (therefore lower on the plant) leaves to yellow, so yellowing alone is not necessarily serious. It is common for plants to wilt, so wilting in and of itself is not serious.

So, when you say what could it be, the answer is that it could be a lot of things and without further information it is almost impossible to say.

Before we try to figure out what it might be, I'd just like to remind you that resistance is only resistance and it is not immunity, so plants bred for VF resistance, for example, still can and sometimes do get verticillium wilt and fusarium wilt. The odds are very slim that you would see verticillium wilt on plants here in zone 7 since that particular plant disease normally is found in zones 4-6. Could it be fusarium wilt? I suppose it could, but I've very rarely seen fusarium here.....maybe 1 case every 6 or 7 years, and I grow a lot of tomato plants every year.

If there's absolutely no brown, black, purplish, or gray spots or lesions on the stems or leaves at all, and if there is no necrosis (tissue death), then I'd lean towards guessing that it is either excess water clogging the root system or it is the earliest stage of Early Blight. I have seen Early Blight appear first as yellowing leaves and then had the spots/concentric circles show up a week or two later.

However, the wilting of the foliage doesn't usually appear until EB is further along, so I am not convinced it is Early Blight based only on some yellowing of the leaves and some wilting.

How about if you click on the TAMU tomato problem solver linked below and look at the stem and leaf photos and see which of them, if any, most resemble what you are seeing on your Sungold. Then, we can discuss it further.

I have a long list of questions I could ask, and they might or might get us closer to a diagnosis, so let's start with the photos on the problem solver website and see if they help narrow down the possibilities.

Early Blight usually begins to show up a little later in June than this, but I have seen a rare case of it in May every now and then.

With all the moisture we've had this spring, there are many things it could be. Have you checked the soil? Is it terribly wet?

Dawn

Here is a link that might be useful: TAMU Tomato Problem Solver

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Comments (22)

slowpoke_gardener
14 years ago
Shankins, it will be interesting to see what the others have to say. I will share a story with you about my last years tomatoes.

We had a very wet year last year also, my soil is very bad, low, won't drain. The plant that I had on the lowest corner of my garden did about the same as yours. I figured the very wet soil had caused the roots to die. figuring I had lost the plant any way that I would trim it way, way back and see what would happen.

Well to make a long story short, the plant survived and produced, but much later than the others.

I am not suggesting you do this because I know very little about gardening, I'm just relating an experence.

I'm sure someone on here can help you, lots of luck, Larry
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shankins123
Original Author
14 years ago
Well...I ran out quickly this morning before work to see what it looks like. I've referenced the TAMU site, but don't really see what I'm seeing in the garden.
The stems are healthy looking - no cankers, no oozing, etc.
The leaves begin turning yellow on the margins, then go brown, and then grey...as they wilt more and more. There are no spots of any kind. The whole stem and leaf system wilts. According to the TAMU site, I should not be seeing that kind of wilting with Verticillium. Early blight? I'm seeing no spots at all.
The soil is not wet; it drains very well (and the other 9 tomato plants are very happy there!) and has been watered appropriately when it's not raining.
More thoughts, questions?
Okiedawn OK Zone 7
14 years ago
Can you post a photo?

I do think there is a chance it could be fusarium wilt because some of the symptoms match, but it also could be all kinds of other issues. And, with Fusarium Wilt, I believe that SunGold specifically is resistant to Fusarium Race 1 and Race 2 but not Race 3. I didn't really think anything in your description matched any of the photos on the TAMU website, but I thought you might see something if you looked there.

Have you read the three fact sheets from OSU that address disease issues?

I'll link the fungal one here because I think, under our current conditions, a fungal issue still is most likely.

Does the plant continue to put out healthy new topgrowth even as the lower stuff sickens and dies? You might want to hedge your bets right now by taking a cutting from somewhere that still has healthy growth. Root the cutting and have it as a back-up in case the plant dies. Because SunGold produces very early from transplantation, a cutting rooted now and put in the ground in a week or two still would be giving you tomatoes before the end of the summer.

I was hoping George and Jay, among others, would tell us what they think too. Many heads are better than two.

And, watch all your plants carefully at this point because, if it is a disease, it could spread from one to another very quickly. But, don't let that statement cause undue concern either. I've had an occasional plant die here or there and the surrounding ones were not at all affected.

Often a tomato plant just dies and you never even know exactly why.

Dawn

Here is a link that might be useful: OSU Fact Sheet on Tomato Fungal Diseases
shankins123
Original Author
14 years ago
Goodness...it really does look like Bacterial wilt (Pseudomonas solanacearum). I'm at work right now, but I'll try to get a picture this evening while I'm out mowing. I'm going to try the cut stem test as well. If that is what I have, then I'll be yanking that plant out quickly.
No accusations here, but just a curiosity...I received the Sun Gold plant from the plant swap. Is anyone else seeing these symptoms in their Sun Gold plants?
elkwc
14 years ago
Dawn a very good site. I will bookmark it. I have some other sites I use and this will be a good source also.

Shankins without pictures it is hard to tell. But from your description it could be wilt. I've had some the last two years. I made the statement 3 years ago that I had never had any disease problems. Maybe one or two a year out of 30 or more. Since I've had my share. Why? I think many reasons including some errors on my part. I had TSWV two years ago. Not knowing that onions attracted the thrip that carry it I planted onions on both sides of one row of tomatoes and on one of another row. All but 2 I believe of the ones I lost were in those rows. And it the row with them on both sides lost 15 of 17 I believe. Would have to look at records for sure. Then I think I brought some in by various means. In talking to extension people, horticulturists I have formed some opinions and changed some of my seed saving and starting methods. Every seed I plant now is either soaked in a Clorox solution when I save it or when I plant it. A recommendation from several sources. From what I've been told that even fermentation doesn't always get all the soil borne diseases. I have a internet grower friend who lost two trays this year to disease before he ever got them potted up. And in both trays it started with plants from one source. And the trays of his own saved seeds did fine with no problems all handled the same way. He is going to soak his seeds next year. So far all my plants have been healthy this year except for some stunted ones in a starting mix but no signs of disease yet. Knock on wood. Many research people also use a hot water soak which I consider a stretch for the backyard grower. In the end you probably won't ever know where all of the diseases and problems come from. Some blow in on the wind. All I can do is try to limit it as much as I can. Many of the truck gardeners here plant sunflowers around their tomato patches as they say many insets prefer them and they let them be the sacrificial lamb. I'm going to do that this year and also use a garlic spray. Garlic is one thing most insects don't seem to like. Will be watching for pictures and see what others have to say. Jay
Okiedawn OK Zone 7
14 years ago
Okay, y'all, here's the Fact Sheet on bacterial diseases et al. since Sharon thinks it might be bacterial wilt with this one.

I've had Bacterial Wilt once or twice, but there again, not as often as you'd expect considering how many I grow.

Sharon, usually baterial wilt has sudden wilt without previous symptoms and, if that belief on my part is incorrect, I hope Jay will correct it since he has dealt with the disease more recently than I have. So, if you saw the wilt first, followed by the yellowing and browning of the foliage, then you may have your answer. When Ihad a plant with bacterial wilt, I don't think I saw yellowing until after the wilting had occurred.

Jay, I've grown sunflowers that way to draw the stinkbugs away, and a row of millet as well. It seems to work (knock on wood). And, I too, used to always grow a row or two of onions right alongside my first row of tomato plants, but pretty much stopped that when I learned the thrips spread TSWV. I haven't had TSWV (knock on wood again), but am trying a couple of TSWV-resistant hybrids this year just to see if I like their performance/flavor so I'll know what I can grow if TSWV ever becomes a big issue here.

I have had Tomato Yellow Leaf Curl Virus, but only in a year when leafhoppers are bad, and that's usually only once every 5 years or so.

Dawn

Here is a link that might be useful: OSU Fact Sheet Bacterial Diseases
elkwc
14 years ago
I had what I thought was Tomato Yellow Leaf Curl virus last year. I never took it and got it diagnosed to be sure. Know some did and it was confirmed and mine was like theirs. But mine was all early and just a few plants. Without looking at records can't say for sure. I'm thinking 2-3 plants all on the southwest edge. Guess some were told they can ride in on the wind which would make sense in this case. Hopefully I won't have it again this year. Knock on wood.

Dawn my wilt hit first and then the yellowing and browning like you said. Like you said I don't remember any previous symptoms before the wilting. Then again I've seen wilting on just a few tips or part of branches on a young plant and then they would come out of it. I have two I noticed that on in the last few days. As long as it isn't the growing tip I don't worry they usually go right on and make great plants. I know some panic. I think we can make things worse sometimes by over reacting. I know that is easy for me to say when it isn't my plants. I know two years ago when the TSWV hit along with a few other things I listened to a few of the "self proclaimed experts" and pulled plants I probably didn't need too. The same way with wilt they say at the first sign pull and destroy. After exchanging emails with Craig who had it and had before I backed off and decided I probably destroyed some plants too soon. So I've over reacted myself. So not pointing fingers at others. Jay
Okiedawn OK Zone 7
14 years ago
I think we all have overreacted to a plant disease at times out of the fear that it will spread and infect our other plants.

A lot of people overreact to bugs and bring out the heavy pesticides quickly too. I have found that if I stay calm and patient, the beneficials will take care of the "bad" bugs. The exceptions? Stink bugs and leaf-footed bugs. I don't know of any beneficials that attack them, so I try to respond immediately when I see them.

And, yes, it is very easy to caution other folks to stay calm and not over-react, but there's times I've over-reacted too.

However, Bacterial Wilt is a issue of real concern because it seems like folks who get it in their soil have a horrible time with it forever after.

So, I am assuming that Craig's plants had Bacterial Wilt but his soil did not become permanently infected with it? That's a good thing to know because some folks say that once they get BW in their soil, they cannot grow tomatoes in that soil anymore. I would think in that case it would be a devastating problem to deal with.

The first serious tomato disease I encountered here was Southern Blight, which I'd never seen before, even though I'd gardened forever in Texas. The second serious plant disease I found in our soil was Cotton Root Rot (our place was once part of a farm where they grew cotton, so it didn't really surprise me). I've never had another case of southern blight, and the cotton root rot bedeviled my ornamental plants until I did a lot of soil improvement, but hasn't been a problem since.

About the only thing I truly understand about gardening is that just when I think I have figured out all the possible diseases and pests, new ones come along.

Dawn
elkwc
14 years ago
Dawn,
I didn't make myself clear. Craig's had TSWV. But many said if there was any doubt to pull them before they spread. Other backed what Craig said. A lot of times what spreads it maybe done gone. You may have one plant here with it and another across the way. Not that way with me as I think the fact the plants were close to the onions and also bigger and flowered sooner drew them. The furthest rows away had none in my case. Back to the wilt I think that is another one I never actually took and sent off for verification. Just fit the description. Was told to not plant in that area for at least a year. Know some say a lot ;longer. I know some say they solar sterilize their soil. I didn't and never noticed any last year. Hopefully I won't this year. Knock on wood. Jay
Okiedawn OK Zone 7
14 years ago
Jay,

I went back and reread and think you made it clear and I just misread it. Sorry.

TSWV doesn't scare me as much as the possibility of Bacterial Wilt. I know Bacterial Wilt is awful in many parts of the hot and humid southeasten states. I have a friend in Charleston who has just given up on growing tomato plants in the ground and is now growing only in containers because his in-ground plants got Bacterial Wilt every year, regular as clockwork, no matter what he did or didn't do.

I don't usually send off plants for verification. I just try to figure it out and deal with it myself. I grow so many plants that it doesn't kill me if I have to pull up and discard a sick plant.

Every disease my plants get seems to come around once and then not again, so I guess I've been lucky. Well, except for Early Blight. It appears somewhere on some plant or plants in my garden every year, and worse in wet years of course. I've been able to reduce the incidence of EB a great deal by heavy mulching, watering by drip irrigation or soaker hoses, and by building soil health and fertility and avoiding overfeeding/overwatering. Still, it pops up now and then.

You and I sure are "knocking on wood" a lot tonight. Something about growing a lot of tomatoes AND discussing tomato diseases is making us nervous. LOL

Dawn
shankins123
Original Author
14 years ago
I have tried to upload my photo...apparently I have a 653KB picture and the photo gallery wants photos Yes...my plant had a wilty look to it; then a leaf or two started going yellow; then one whole side wilted, turned yellowish and began developing gray/brown margins.
So...do I take it out, hold on, or what? I don't think it will resurrect, to be honest, but weirder things have happened, I suppose.
Okiedawn OK Zone 7
14 years ago
Sharon,

When I had it, I left the plants in place until I was sure they were dead. I didn't want to take out a plant if it had a chance to bounce back, and I have had "almost dead" plants bounce back and recover from various things. However, if leaving it is making you nervous because you fear the disease will spread to another plant, then just go ahead and take it out so you'll have peace of mind. Dispose of it in the trash and don't put it on your compost pile.

Jay may offer different advice and, if he does, I'd do what he says. He's had plants with bacterial wilt more recently than I have (I think my last one was in 2005) so he probably remembers better than I do if there's any chance of the plant rebounding.

Dawn
shankins123
Original Author
14 years ago
I'm leaving it in place for now...but I really don't think it has much chance of making it.

Everything else looks so good this year! Most of the tomato plants are at the 3' level, as is the corn...potatoes and cucumbers are blooming and happy. Bell peppers are setting, but the little ancho poblanos are just sitting there...hmm? They're at about 3-4" and healthy-looking; just not growing...we'll wait and see.
Okiedawn OK Zone 7
14 years ago
Sharon,

Is it possible the pepper plants were exposed to air temperatures below 45 degrees for a few nights? If so, they're stunted for that reason. Or, if they were planted into soil that was 55 degrees or colder, that will cause them to remain stunted.

Usually, I set out pepper plants a couple of weeks later than tomato plants, and sometimes up to 3 or 4 weeks later if the cool nighttime low temps persist.

Normally (to the extent anything here is normal), my pepper plants will start to bloom and set fruit 2-3 weeks after they were transplanted if I haven't let them stay outside on a couple of cool nights while they were still transplants.

Three to four inches sounds pretty small for this time of year, so maybe some cold exposure did stunt them.

Dawn
shankins123
Original Author
14 years ago
Well...after the plant swap, they lived in larger pots, but with 2 liter coke bottle cloches over them for the next several weeks. After that I pulled the cloches off, so maybe they did get too cold a night or so. Will they grow, or is it time to give them the heave-ho and get some new ones??
Okiedawn OK Zone 7
14 years ago
Sharon,

I don't know. If they are not growing at all--no gains in height for several weeks, no new foliage, etc., then they may have gotten cold enough to be more-or-less permanently stunted. Sometimes, though, hot peppers are slower to take off and grow in spring than the sweet peppers are.

Even if the plants had cloches over them, they still would be stunted if exposed to the cold temps. Cloches do not keep them that much warmer at night--all they do is keep the frost off the leaves.

I keep peppers inside at night for as long as cool nighttime temperatures persist, even if it means I carry the peppers inside every night and outside every morning. (I did a lot of that this year.)

I've learned the hard way that exposure to cold nighttime temps really stunts peppers, and it seems to stunt hot peppers more than it does sweet peppers.

So, it's a judgement call. If a pepper plant sits for a month and shows no new growth in spring, I consider it permanently stunted.

Dawn
shankins123
Original Author
14 years ago
Thanks, Dawn....as much as I know...leads me to realize I just don't know as much as I thought :)
elkwc
14 years ago
I saw this thread earlier but needed to go downtown and didn't have time to answer. Dawn covered most of what I was going to say.I was grown up raisings NM chilie peppers and jalapenos. Like I've stated several times okra and most hot peppers I've grown are warm weather plants. And when either hardened off outside or planted outside too early will just set there. Yes they do and will get stunted. Some varieties are worse than others. Bell peppers are more cold tolerant but have always got treated like hot peppers around me and the old truck gardeners I was around in NM. Some of them would set the bell peppers out first as it gave them something to do before it got warm enough for the chilies. Most of mine have always came out of it but it can take a while. If they don't grow any after 7-10 days of hot temps then in my opinion they are severely stunted. Some of mine have grown slow this year due to the roller coaster temps. Some at work planted the first two weeks of May and have been asking me why they weren't growing. But most grew some last week when we had the 90 degree days. And after gardening in some fashion for over 40 years every year I realize I know less than I thought I did. Number one Mother Nature can humble you faster than anything else. Remember to have fun and enjoy it and like and old farmer always told me. It is never really as good as you think when things are going really good and never as bad as you think when things are going really bad. You will have years to brag about but if you do remember you will have years that you never care to see again. Just learn everyday as that is what we all do no matter how long we have been at this hobby. Jay
Okiedawn OK Zone 7
14 years ago
Hi Y'all,

I really agree with Jay's comments, especially those about Mother Nature.

Sometimes I think we forget that "Mother Nature bats last". No matter what we do, we have to deal with everything she throws at us. And every year I feel like the more I learn, the less I know, and "the hurrier I go, the behinder I get". (That last bit was on a poster when I was a teenager, and I didn't really "get it" then, but I do now.)

Sharon, just remember that gardening is a journey, and not a destination. Some years, at the end of that year's journey, all you can do is look back and say "what a long, strange trip it's been". LOL

Dawn
shankins123
Original Author
14 years ago
Oh, Profound One (Dawn)...that journey is also known as LIFE :)

I am...enjoying the journey very much!
Okiedawn OK Zone 7
14 years ago
Sharon

That's true, and I was thinking that exact thing as I typed that gardening is a journey......LOL

Dawn

Sungold tomato...serious wilt issue!

Okiedawn OK Zone 7

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