About a foot tall. I had to put a bamboo stake near it so I wouldn't mow it over. Few of my trees are bigger than that when planted. I planted a 3-leaved American Beech I dug from my sister's woods. My brother mowed it over. It is now over my head (7-8ft). That was 18 years ago, but they truly grow slow. On the other hand, I planted an 8 inch Magnolia grandiflora stick, not brown back leaf, that is about 22 ft. tall. That was also about 20 yrs. ago. For height measurement, I use a straight bamboo stick. You cut it the length of the distance from the web between the thumb and forefinger to your eye, when your arm is extended 90 degrees from your body. To measure the tree, hold the stick with your arm completely extended, perpendicular to the ground and parallel to your body. Walk towards the tree in question (keep your arm 90 degrees from your body). When the stick is exactly as tall as the tree in your eye, the tree is as tall as you are from the trunk. Hint: hold the stick nearer the bottom so that you won't be lifting your arm as you walk towards the tree.

Growth of new roots of cold climate adapted trees and shrubs is prompted by hormones coming from opening winter stem buds at shoot tips in spring. In fall existing roots elongate the most of the whole year - this second main rooting period is initiated by the forming and maturing of winter stem buds. During winter in cold climates trees and shrubs effectively hibernate. These facts are why bare rooted nursery stock dug in November is warehoused and shipped for spring planting, and why fall planting of hardy stock not yet in a dormant condition has become advocated - if this is planted in fall before the roots elongate (and roots are not cut back at planting) then immediate establishment can be accomplished. Spring: main period of new root growth Summer: some root growth Fall: main period of elongation of existing roots (60% of annual total) Winter: little, if any root growth This is the behavior of plants under normal outdoor conditions and not that of propagation material being manipulated with bottom heat or what is seen in other variant situations involving artificial environments. One of the main problems faced when overwintering finished stock in plastic shelters is the warming of these enclosures by the sun, resulting in breaking of dormancy and initiation of growth well ahead of spring planting time.

Mangos aren't from a rainforest climate. They're monsoonal, which means a hot, humid wet season (summer) with higher temperatures day and night, and a hot, low humidity, dry season (winter) with higher day temperatures and a lot lower at night. Too much humidity can cause fungal diseases so in general it's good to water the base of the plant and keep water off the leaves, especially in the colder months. Looking at the photos the mango looks good. They grow and then stop a while. New growth comes with a flush of new leaves. So it's growing normally. When your winter comes there wouldn't be much growth but still take it out into the sun each day as much as you can. Temperatures below 15C you should have it inside/warmer. It will actually survive lower temperatures, but better if warmer. A seed grown mango can take around 8 years to produce fruit. But then you can't guarantee the fruit will be much good.

Towandaaz: Looks like you have about the same amount of growth as I have. You've got some nice basals coming in. Our last frost date is May 8...aaaannddd...we are supposed to get snow this weekend! That's going to wreck havoc in the garden. Everything started leafing out in February. All the fruit trees bloomed a month ago. The garden looked like this yesterday, but I'm afraid what will happen this weekend. I guess I'm just going to have to wait and see like rabainsz7bpnw says. Let me know how your Geoff Hamilton does. I've appreciated the photos of this rose for a long time, but heard that it is a stingy bloomer. Altorama: The soil seemed to be pretty moist when I checked it. The drip lines are running fine. The roses under the maple seemed to be doing the best.