Mary, Thanks. I had seen that site previously but you prompted me to do another search on Google so that I could list the sites I found previously that said that this type of yucca has the longest taproot and is the most difficult to transplant. None said how long to expect the taproot to be or what needs to be done to be successful in transplanting. However, this time I found a site I had not found previously which gave me some useful information. I need to try to get all of the tap root, the taproot could be as long as 5 feet on a mature yucca (I am guessing 1 to 2 feet on the ones I am trying to move), I need to water after transplanting, and I will be doing well if one out of four survive. Since the lateral roots are up to 10 inches long, I am going to try digging a circular trench that starts about a foot away from the center of the plant and is at least a foot deep before checking inside for roots. I do not know what is the biggest root ball possible for me to move. I still do not know the best time of year, but I think I will try to wait until it gets a bit warmer. I am curious to hear if anyone has successfully moved a soaptree yucca. The site I found this time was http://www.fs.fed.us/database/feis/plants/shrub/yucela/all.html where I found the following two paragraphs helpful: "Soaptree yucca is difficult to transplant. Campbell and Keller [8] reported that only 25% of soaptree yucca transplants survived due to taproot breakage. Soaptree yucca has been transplanted to revegetate highway rights-of way, but there was great expense in removing entire roots, as is required for successful planting. Successful transplanting of yuccas (an unspecified amount of which were soaptree yucca) has been done; plants were removed with as little root damage as possible and immediately watered when replanted [48]." "GENERAL BOTANICAL CHARACTERISTICS: Soaptree yucca has woody, succulent stems often 9-12 feet (3-4 m) high (occasionally up to 30 feet (9 m) [24]. Utah yucca is smaller, with stems up to approximately 4.5 feet (1.3 m) [49]. Growth form of soaptree yucca varies from a single, erect, trunklike stem to several stems in clumps of 1.6 to 8.2 feet (0.5-2.5 m) in diameter [48]. Like all yucca species with dehiscent fruits, soaptree yucca is rhizomatous. The species is unique in that the rhizome develops downward and later begins lateral root extensions. The "vertical rhizome" as described by Webber [48] commonly grows to 3-5 feet (1-1.5 m) deep, and 3-6 inches (8-15 cm) in diameter. Lateral roots are 6-10 inches (15-20 cm) long and 1-3 inches (2.5-8 cm) in diameter [48]. Leaves are slender, sharply pointed, 2-3 feet (0.6-1 m) in length, and grow in variably loose to densely crowded clumps [8]. Stems are often clumped because they are derived from common rhizome systems [48]. Leaves grow in a tuft at the top of the stem [24]. The stem can be either upright or procumbent [25]. The inflorescence is an open, branching panicle [8], producing a capsular, fleshy, and dehiscent fruit. The fruit commonly contains about 150 viable ovoid seeds [2]." This had root depth, root diameter, and requirements for success! Thanks for prompting me to search again, Anna

depends on the species of yucca... Yucca guatamalensis and glorisa are certainly as simple as that... in fact, you can cut up Y guatamalensis into tiny sections and it seems every section grows into a new plant. I had a monster of this in my old yard, hacked up, tried to did the root out fo the ground (massive thing) and ended up with dozens of plants all over the yard. I hate that species. Never did get rid of the original, either.

Hi glen3a, I had just again read your posting and wanted to mention that there's NO worry about plants getting too hot or cooking under the styrofoam rose cones! Here we often experience mild snowless sunny conditions in which badly dessicate evergreens! If not for the rose cones my Danica ceders would badly dry up and croak! Spring removal is indeed an important timing! I do so as soon as the ground has thawed and plants are then taking up water. Leaving on any longer and excess moisture can cause damage and rotting of foliage. I do not use burlap to wrap up any of my evergreens ... and again that has ALOT to do with my climate! What happens is so much heat can build up behind the burlap it can turn the plant to crispy crunch! Burlap CAN be used though, in a climate such as mine it MUST be kept up and off of the plant thus maintaining good air circulation. In snowy dreary winter climates tightly wrapping is often recommended. For larger evergreens I cut spruce limbs and prop these up and over all sides of the shrub in which are exposed to the sun! Anyways, hows the yucca doing? Terry

Where are you located? With heat sun and water it should come back. Not enough water to rot it however. The key is whether the growth tip got munched or just the side leaves. If it was well established it may even shoot up new shoots from the base.