Congratulations! 'Leesburg' Al is cool. --Stitz--

Poetmama you can grow many things at 50-90. The size of your g/h is also important. The larger the area, the easier it is to maintain a more even temp. In a very small area, the temps change rapidly. On gray ugly winter days your heat will run constantly. On days with sun, the temps can go quite high. The colder outside, the longer it takes for the sun to heat it up. Yesterday here in zone 6a with the sun out and the outside temp at 20, the heat ran until 10 and was back on by 5:15. In the summer you will need a shade cloth over the structure to prevent the temps from going to 120. With a 50% aluminet shade cloth, you can keep the inside temps to the outside temps. In your zone the shade cloth will be removed around mid-Sept/early Oct and put back on mid-March-ish. I have a vent wall/swamp cooler so am not familiar with other cooling methods. There are some from misting to portable swamp coolers plus vents, fans, etc. As others have said, interior fans are a must, winter and summer. Stagnant air for any plant material in a closed environment is an invitation for disease problems. All of my recommendations assume your g/h is located with no trees or other structures producing shade. If you are going to attempt Phals at 50 degrees, I recommend they be mounted. Phals are warm growers and prefer to never go below 65, but do fine at 60 but a potted Phal at 50 won't be happy with cold roots. There are cool growing Phals but they are species and you have to love the unique blooms to grow them. They are not the "glamorous" tall cascading spiked Phals. Most Lycaste would love those temps except for some warming growing ones. They are not the most common ones. You have winter and summer blooming types so can have various bloom times. Most Masdies will love your winter temps and will do fine for you if your temps get cool over night during the summer. They are true shade growers. More from Nick's list - most Bulbos are warm growers - there are a few that like cool and dryer winters. Be sure and check their temp requirements. Again for warm growers, mounted would be better than potted in a cool g/h. Pescatoreas would be happy to keep your Masdies company in the shade. Other suggestions not on Nick's list would be Sudamerlycaste (Ida) and Sarcos. Most Vandas are warm growing but there are a couple of cool-er growing ones. There is a greenhouse forum here on the Garden Web and they can also offer recommendations regarding your set up. Any particular orchid that catches your fancy is or has been grown by someone on this forum. Good luck! Brooke

I'm on the fence about teeth, but, from what I've seen, Dr. Stump has such an orderly arrangement of teeth that it has always intrigued me. More like fringe then teeth. Your picture is a good example of why I find it interesting..... I can remember it going on the auction and reaching astronomical prices when it first came out. The lack of vigor bothers me though. I spent too much on a daylily a few years back (for my wallet anyway) and it's grown backwards ever since. It typifies what a plant without vigor can do. I hope you come up with some interesting, but more vigorous crosses. That fringe is unique and I appreciate the heads up on its growing habit...........Maryl

I've heard many people in different locations say that Maryott daylilies don't do well for them. I've always wondered what they meant. Bill grew in the rarified atmosphere of California in a greenhouse for the most part from what I understand, so are his plants finicky about climate? Too hot, too cold? Wonder what it is because if pictures meant anything, his daylilies would be in everyone's garden you'd think..........Maryl