I have been using Milorganite for 10 years and I have never seen any labeling about cadmium. The biggest usage of cadmium is in nickel cadmium batteries. IMO, there has long been much discussion about so called heavy metals in Milorganite which I think is much addeaux about nothing. There is a plethora of packaged organic fertilizers on the market. One of my favorites is Bradfield which is an alfalfa based fertilizer. I can fertilize my St.Augustine with Milorganite for $20 while the Bradfield, as an example, would cast around $45. The Dallas/Ft.Worth area where I live is a hot bed of organic activity so many items such as soy bean meal and corn gluten meal have grown to be rather expensive.

If "organic fertilizer" does not get washed out of soil why is there high levels of phosphorus found in streams and rivers of farm country traceable to manure spread on the fields? That is a good question. First I would question the source of the information (that manure is responsible). If the manure source is confirmed then I would question how the phosphate got into the livestock. Amkeer might be right about overuse of phosphate in pasture fertilizer. The ranchers I know best don't use any fertilizer at all besides what falls out of the animals. In fact they target their manure deposits by strategically placing the water trough and mineral lick so as to concentrate the fertilizer in one spot. I'm not questioning you or your statement, kimmsr, but I have seen well-meaning researchers improperly draw conclusions on cause and effect before. Livestock seem to be a ready "cause" for many environmental ills when I believe them to be the solution to many environmental ills.

Keep in mind that most all soybeans grown in the USA are genetically engineered to be resistant to glyphosate products and there is more and more evidence that this is haarmful to humans long term. Since the concept of genetic engineering is anathema to an organic gardener/farmer the use of those products probably should be also. Usually zone 6 grasses are cool season grasses, Kemtuky Bluegrass, Perennial Rye, one or more of the Fescues, although people do seed other species. Possibly your state universities Cooperative Extension Service people couild help you identify what you have. Sometimes those that do soil tests do give organic matter levels, often, lately, they do not. These simple soil tests can help you determine that, and some other soil related information. 1) Soil test for organic matter. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains� too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. Here is a link that might be useful: Genetic Engineering

If you have bad soil and are looking for results in the short term then I'd wait on the coffee grounds until you've increased the level of organic matter in your soil. If I may jump in on this tread? This is the part that I don't understand in relation to lawns. My soil is heavy clay. I can and have easily amended my garden beds 'cause I can till amendments into the soil. But with a lawn, I just don't get it. Some sections of my lawn are so clay that grass just can't grow. (think pudding when wet) Seeds do spout and reach about one or two inches. Then the grass invertibly dies off. I've even physically turned over a particulary bad section twice...no help, grass died. If one does not the the money or the muscle to till admendments into a 5000 sq ft area, how does one incorporate material into the soil? (I got so discouraged this summer with trying to get grass that I turned over 200 more sq ft into garden/flower beds) Yes, I mulch mow high. Smile. I have plenty of fall leaves (and can easily get bags more) which I usually use for the garden area. Would mulching these atop the soil help amend the yard? Large amounts of coffee grounds are not an option. Compost on the yard is not an option. (C tea, lol , tried three times and kept ending up with a stinking mess which I was afraid to use. I just spread cracked corn which made the birds and squirrels very happy. It seems to me, that if you don't have the initial investment for organics, the program is hard to get started. What am I overlooking?